Helm Master Staypoint/Fishpoint Prop Wash

athomp228

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Any advice on transducer settings, mounting location to have a clearer picture when using staypoint or fishpoint?

I've noticed the fish finder is pretty much useless when the engines are holding a position. My transducer is thru hull on the starboard side about mid hull.

I'm assuming this is a non issue with trolling motors on spot lock?
 
The issue is usually bubbles in the water. When steering forward, the churned water is aft of the vessel but when going in reverse, the churned/aerated water is moved forward under the hull. That can cause the transducer to break good water contact. I am assuming that the engines are turning to redirect thrust.
There isn't a magical solution to the roiled water condition that I am aware of. If possible adjusting the aggressiveness of the spot locking corrections or using lower revs
I had an older boat with a Lowrance HDS plotter and a transom mounted xducer. If I reversed aggressively, the sonar would stop working and lose bottom as well as depth when the sensitivity was set to auto, when I got into the loss of sonar condition, it wouldn't clear up unless I turned the unit off and then on. Definitely some sort of software bug. Turning off the auto sensitivity and lowereing it manually didn't stop the sonar from acting up in churned water but it did enable the sonar to recover faster.
 
Yeah, I could absolutely see that happening. The motors are constantly turning and going into and out of fwd/reverse, sending propwash all over the place. I think you're just up against the nature of the beast and it is what it is. Use that old fashioned, metal thing that holds you in position with no electricity needed........ :) But yes, the trolling motor is far enough away (and throws MUCH less propwash) that it shouldn't be a problem.
 
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There is virtually no transducer position who solve prop wash bubbles when in reverse, particularly not when using outboard spot lock/fish point/stay point when outboards constantly turn and shift between forward and reverse.
The only solutions is as already mentioned:
a) drifting
b) anchoring
c) electric trolling motor on bow

Honestly i believe that this system of virtual anchoring is one of the biggest predictable fails in outboard history,
a manufacturers good point to convince people to spend extra money for it just to realise later that it's too noisy and not the best mechanically.
It may have some real benefits for docking under difficult conditions or waiting outside a passage with high current or wind for captains with limited experience, but for fishing purposes it's simply a fail.

Chris