Helm replacement

[mboyatt]

Hello all. I have a Seastar hydraulic helm that I need to replace. When I disconnect the hydraulic lines at the helm, will I need to first purge out the hydraulic fluid, or can the lines be removed without a lot of spillage? I know I will have to refill and purge the system after install, but I was hoping to be able to disconnect the lines without completely draining the system. All I need to do here is swap out the helm pump for a new one - same make and model. I am hoping this will be a quick and easy swap out. Thank you in advance for any insight you may be able to give!

 

[grady33]

I would drain the oil since the boat has many years. Oil has probably been contaminated and you are better off refilling with fresh oil. If it is contaminated, you will screw up your new helm pump. Why did the helm pump fail? You can have them rebuilt for 200 or so.

 

[mboyatt]

I know this is going to sound crazy. The helm pump did not fail. Works fine. This is pure vanity. :twisted: I am restoring a 1994 tournament. Have done all instruments, replaced duratrim, stainless cup holders, new stainless steering wheel, etc..... The deal with the helm is this. It is beyond sun damaged. I mean, the thing has literally bubbled up in spots and is cracked and peeling. But it does work fine. My hope was to just swap it out without having to drain all fluid, then top up with fresh fluid to fill the new pump, then purge as needed. Because of the condition of the exterior, i do not believe rebuild is an option. New unit will run 300 dollars. Is it a must to drain all fluid before beginning?

 

[Curmudgeon]

:uhm No need to drain the system 'just because'. Your helm should be high upstream and there will likely be only a cup or two leakage. If you have a loop in the hoses after they enter the console, you can about see how much will drain. If you lay the hoses horizontal while you work, though, there will be more ...

 

[grady33]

Ok so that makes sense. If it didn't fail, oil it probably ok. I had a teleflex helm fail and the manufacturer said no way use the old oil. You should be ok though.

 

[mboyatt]

Thank you curmudgeon and grady28! It is the advice that I was hoping for, and I will take it!!! Based on the advice, I will just plan on placing down plastic drop cloths to protect the helm area and will remove the two hydraulic lines at the helm. Once all the spillage is captured and cleaned, I will swap out with the new "pretty" helm. Once installed, I will fill the new helm with hydraulic fluid and will purge the system. Wish I didn't have to swap this helm out, but it does look really bad compared to the rest of the work I have done to fix this boat. Thanks guys!

 

[gw204]

What are your plans for the old helm once swapped out? I may be interested if you are considering selling it...

 

[ROBERTH]

mboyatt, what did you replace your duratrim with?

I used PVC trim last year and not real happy as it is pretty soft and is getting easily dinged. Thinking to get starboard trim now as replacement.

 

[mboyatt]

Roberth, believe it or not, I went old school and replaced it with nice teak. I read about other products being soft and susceptible to temperature changes, so I decided to go with something tried and true. On the 1994 tournament 192, there is not much of the trim at all. I think the wood breaks up the fiberglass well. I am not a fan of boats with a lot of teak, so I was reluctant. But it is such a small amount of trim that it works for me. I considered the starboard, but it is my understanding that this product will also expand/contract depending on temperature. I just didn't want to mess with that. Now I have some nice wood I will need to maintain from time to time but i am fine with that. By the way, you can always use a product called Penetrol to freshen up the duratrim. Mine was beyond restoration though. Some suggested fliping the duratrim around so the back side faces front. I thought this was a brilliant idea, but guess what? The duratrim only has the wood grain on one side. :bang I was diappointed with that one. I thought I would have new duratrim for no cost at all!

 

[ROBERTH]

Ok, so teak would look good for sure. Nice and rich looking.

I have the penetrol and kept the duratrim for helm area. It still looks good there. Guess less sun damage. The cockpit area duratrim was in bad enough shape so I did the PVC thing. I will try the starboard next and see how it works. The duratrim, if flipped over, would not align so would have to drill more holes and put in more screws. Also, the backside was not the same as you mention.
If the duratrim was not delaminating on the ends, I would have maybe just put a new finish on it or clear coated it.

 

[mboyatt]

Let us know how the starboard works out. My instrument panel still has the duratrim and it looks kind of rough. Should have replaced it when I did the gauges. Kind of kick myself for that one. I will wait until this boating season is done, then will pull all gauges and have a replacement panel made. Will probably do a black panel to offset the stainless gauges. Replaced all gauges with Faria Kronos gauges. Reasoanble price per gauge and the stainless looks cool. :mrgreen: