Help finding replacement fittings for 86 Overnighter

[timo14]

Hoping someone can steer me in the right direction. I need to find replacements for both my fishwell drains and my rear deck drains. I'm in the middle of replacing all my thru-hulls, which is turning into an entire re-plumbing job.

The fish-well's I'm referring to are the ones on both sides of the boat... the lid is the step up to the walk-around. The fitting says "KLEIN BKLYN 7 NY #401-P" on the underside of the flange. I googled it... no luck. The flange tapers from about an inch to nothing, the ID is exactly 1" to accept a plug. Here are some photo's...

The rear deck drains are oriented in the bulkhead between the deck and the splashwell/bilge area. They really have to be an exact replacement due to the recess they sit in. Here's some photo's of this fitting...

I hope somebody can help me out. Drains are all apart, and I've only got a couple of weeks before I need them!

 

[cdwood]

Tim, I used off the shelf Atwoods for the rear deck drains. The flange is a little big but a little creative grinding can make it fit perfectly. Combine that with generous use of the 5200 and you'll be fine.

 

[timo14]

Taking a "regular" thru-hull to a grinder is what I've decided to do. I found a Perko drain that has a shoulder on it that is only about 1/4"... not the same size as the usual 1-1/2" thru-hull. I think it's acetal, not Marelon. I ground one down and dry fit it tonight... not too bad.

I found a drain at WM today that I think will work perfectly for the fish well drain, the only problem is that it is a really chitzy plastic. Not sure what to do...

 

[Curmudgeon]

If you're not going with metal, DO NOT use 5200. You'll be real sorry the next time one of 'em needs removal (and you or someone else will need to, sooner or later) ... :wink:

 

[cdwood]

Curm, talk to me!!!!!! What do you know about 5200 on plastic/ non metal?

 

[timo14]

CD... I think what he's saying is that you shouldn't use 5200 on something above the waterline that you may have to remove at some point... such as the fuel coffin lid. Once it is fully cured, it is not easily removed.

What sealant should be used on something like that? I've had good luck with Geocel 2400... which is a tri-polymer. Not sure if it's the right stuff, I just happen to have a bunch of it as left-overs from various construction projects. As far as that goes (caulking shower bases, roofing, just about anything), I think Geocel is the best performing caulk I've ever used.

 

[timo14]

Here's the drain I got for the fish-well. Like i said, it looks like it will work perfectly. It's even got the elbow built in. But what a piece of junk this thing is.

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I found this on the net last night... it's a "marine" sink drain. Looks like it'd work too, but i gotta do a little more research to see if I have the room below the well for it, and if there's room to get my hands in there. I'd have to drill a much bigger hole though. Not sure exactly how it seals, or if the seal will hold up to me hitting it with a hose. Here's the link...

http://downloads.ambassador-amc.com/mar ... 102-xx.pdf


Any thoughts?

 

[cdwood]

The one from Ambassador looks like alot of parts, what are they made of?

 

[timo14]

It's pretty much a standard sink drain, but with a hose outlet. All the metals are stainless... but i have no idea what the remainder of the parts are. Does look like a lot of parts.

I was poking around in there last night... I had one finger in the drain hole trying to feel around to see if some of the foam could be removed to allow me to use a larger drain. I didn't feel anything but foam. I'm hoping that once i cut a larger access port in the gunnel, I'll be able to fit more of my hand in there to get under the well.

 

[sfc2113]

If you're not going with metal, DO NOT use 5200. You'll be real sorry the next time one of 'em needs removal (and you or someone else will need to, sooner or later) ... :wink:

definetly use something other that 5200 or 5200 fast cure you will be using a hammer and chisel to get it off, I used it to seal a deck plate by accident and it aint ever comming off unless I grind it down plastic and all.

 

[Curmudgeon]

What do you know about 5200 on plastic/ non metal?

5200 is primarily an adhesive that is also an effective sealant. When set, 5200 is extremely difficult to remove. So much so in some applications, in fact, fiberglass damage occurs before the part is released. If you're using metal fittings, the chances of having to r & r is slim, so the issue isn't as important. If you're using nylon/plastic, your chances of having to r & r goes up substantially.

That being said, something like 4000 or 4200 is a highly effective sealant, but less so an adhesive. A general rule of thumb I've always used: If I never, ever, contemplate taking something apart, 5200 is fine (use the fast cure so you don't have to wait a week). If I think I might have to r & r, 4000/4200 is the ticket. 4000 also comes in fast cure/UV resistent .

There are several appropriate sealants available, so there's nothing magic about 3M. The key is what do you want to do: if you want to glue something together forever, 5200 is great. If all you want is to "seal" something (like thru hulls), it isn't ... :wink:

 

[BobP]

Try this one for your box. You didn't say what size threads are.

http://store.hamiltonmarine.com/browse.cfm/4,19785.html

Hamilton marine, and Jamestown have a variety.

The one above is marleon,if I'm not mistaken, good for above and below waterline.

If you find one that had a hose nipple and you don't
want it but threads instead, saw off the nipple portion, plenty of thread left over.

Sealant - when using plastic or ABS, be sure sealant is compatilble, whatever brand used. I use Boatlife Lifeseal and Lifecaulk, both below the waterline, the lifeseal is ok for plastics.

 

[BobP]

Some more good stuff -

http://www.forespar.com/onlineCatalog/2 ... 2009.shtml

 

[Grog]

If you feel it's a POS, don't use it in an application that can sink the boat. It has to be UV stable and take being stepped on.

 

[timo14]

Thanks Bob. I did see both of those fittings in the store. The problem with them is that the fiberglass at the bottom of the well is so thin, and the angle of the shoulder on the thru-hull us so steep, that I'm afraid if I try to countersink the drain in so that it's flush, I'll have very little "meat" left for the drain to sit on. Does that make sense?

It's annoying that i cant find a replacement. What is really annoying is that that crappy fitting I bought would work absolutely perfectly... but i just cant bring myself to use it. I'm hoping that I'll have time this weekend to cut a bigger hole in the gunnel (where the existing, small access port is) so i can get my hands in there to see what's going on.

 

[timo14]

If you feel it's a POS, don't use it in an application that can sink the boat. It has to be UV stable and take being stepped on.

Just a fish box drain... wont sink the boat, but I'm sure it'd smell so bad after a few trips tha I might want to sink it!

 

[BobP]

If the angle on the thru hulls I suggested is greater, then it's more for a deck which is much thicker since it's cored.

Did you try the metal bronze ones that are flat, are they also deep on the angle?

 

[BobP]

And don't worry about the size of hole for the plug, you can always use a tapered plug or cork.

 

[timo14]

Did you try the metal bronze ones that are flat, are they also deep on the angle?

I haven't tried the flat-head thru-hulls... haven't been able to find one on the self or find a diagram of one. I believe that they are tapered on the underside... just not sure. I think they are for being countersunk into a hull which would lead me to believe they are tapered.

I'm not too worried about the plug, I might put in an inline valve anyway. I just want the box's to drain as completely as possible. The old (broken) drains cleared them out 100%.

I had a thought earlier... and that is to buy an acetal thru-hull and sand it down as much as possible before it gets flimsy. I think it's do-able.

 

[Grog]

If you feel it's a POS, don't use it in an application that can sink the boat. It has to be UV stable and take being stepped on.

Just a fish box drain... wont sink the boat, but I'm sure it'd smell so bad after a few trips tha I might want to sink it!

The part that worried me was the deck drain. Although that fish slime cooking in the bilge will get nasty. :lol: