Help - float switch?

G

georgemjr

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 2, 2009
Messages
446
Reaction score
39
Points
28
Location
Bay Shore, Long Island NY
While cleaning the bilge in my boat, the pump did not go on automatically. I turned the switch on and it emptied the bilge, no problem. I have never worked on what appears to be a "sealed" switchbox on the newer Gradys. I have always had the old "float" style switch. How do I check the new style to see if it makes continuity when it should? It isn't as simple as raising the float anymore. Thanks...george
 
on my boat it needs to rock and roll a little before the auto will kick on, some time i'll be driving down the road miles from the house, and it will start just pumping out on cars. And when I get out on open water, rain water allways gets in some how. If your boast on a trailer just rock it a few times and see it it starts pumping,
 
It should turn feely where the wires enter the sealed box. Hold the wires and turn. You will feel the switch lifting. If it is working the pump will come on. If the pump doesn't come on you may need to replace the assembly. Check the connections for the float switch before you remove it. You may get lucky and find corrosion is the problem.
 
So, am I to understand that under the blue cover is a traditional "float" just like I used to have? Has anyone removed the cover to check freedom of movement and continuity in the up position? Anyone have a link to a diagram of what I can expect to see when I remove the cover? Just trying to do the homework before I start taking it apart. Thanks.
 
Yes, it's a standard float switch under the cover. I was able to get mine to move up and down by grabbing and twisting the pivot shaft that was slightly sticking out on both sides. I was able to determine the switch did not work. The way it was mounted in the bilge, I could not figure out how to remove it (I needed longer arms and a shorter screwdriver), so I just left it there and installed another float switch next to it. The one I installed was the standard type that all I have to do is lift it up to check if it's working.
 
While I did not take the "cover" off last season when I replaced both of mine, that is all that is in there.....a regular float. I replaced my aft switch with a traditional float because that was all I sould find the day I was replacing it. I am not sure why you want to take it apart. It either works or doesn't work. Maybe I am missing something from your posts.
 
I had the same problem on a 1995 Adventure 208. The pump would turn on with the toggle switch but not the float switch. The problem with mine was the fuse connected directly to the battery was not working. I cut the line and relaced it with a standard automotive type fuse and fuse holder. Now it works great.
 
I would like to remove the cover so that I can trouble shoot it. I have no way of knowing if it will allow continutity (power to go through the switch to the pump) without actaully moving the float up to where it should close the switch (open the circuit). There are many possibilities that could have gone wrong, so before I replace I would like to figure out what it is. As previously posted, it could be in the wiring. I have also had floats that have been "sticky" and would not move. After cleaning them, they again move freely and work perfectly. I need to figure out what's broke before I can fix it...
 
Maybe you misunderstood what I was saying. To test the float on the sealed unit all you have to do is turn the small plastic sleeve where the wires enter the unit. That will raise the float. It is designed that way so you can test it. I believe your float is a mercury tube unit. They are prone to failure over time. As far as I know, if the switch is "gone" the remedy is to replace the unit.

Good luck.
 
Is this the type you have?


116267.jpg
 
The unit is screwed to the hull, front and back - no big deal. To check if working, just turn the knob where the wires are attached. Taking the unit out probably won't help you much. The float is, I believe, foam filled and if the mercury switch inside is gone then it really isn't repairable.

$30 or so for a new one.
 
Thanks for the info. I went to the boat and turned it by the wires and could feel the float going up and down. I did get it to work in the up position, but it was intermittent and worked best when I rotated it quickly, with force, hitting the top of the position. Since there is no way to service it, I guess I'll just replace. Seems like pretty cheap insurance. Thanks again for the info...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.