Help: GROCO effuent holding tank with internal macerator

[bc282]

Finally had a chance to do some work on the boat.
Fixed the leaky port window and tied trouble shooting the manual head on the 2002 282 Sailfish.

The manual pump seems to work fine, although i did buy a re-build kit to eventually re-build, but the overboard discharge is not working.

I opened the sea-cock in the floor of the cuddy for the discharge and pressed the pump out button, but no results and no sound of the pump even coming on.

I accessed thru the aft berth the Groco holding tank and checked for power with a meter. I noticed a fair amount of rust on the terminals and connector but did get some readings for power to the tank with the internal macerator and pump. Unfortunately the leads to the terminals on the top of the tank are "automotive" style connectors and not tinned connectors with heat shrink jackets thus serious corrosion. The wire leads coming from the tank are very short and i don't know if they can be pulled out further and re-terminated with marine grade connectors.

I did have the tank recently pumped clean at the "Eco barge" and then added a few gallons of warm water and bio-enzymes to help break down any effuent that might have solidified in the tank and pump. Had to leave and haven't tried the pump after adding the enzymes.

Do i need to take the tank apart to service or re-place the pump? if so, what is the best way to do this?

am i missing trouble shooting something else?

 

[ocnslr]

When the macerator in our 10-gallon holding tank died, I priced a replacement pump. Then I priced a replacement Groco "SweetTank" and went with that option. Was able to go from 10-gal to 15-gal (same width and height, and seven inches longer), all the connections matched, and it was the correct choice for us. In addition to the connections you have now, there is a small volume air pump that runs continuously, pumping air into a mainfold system in the tank. The environment stays "aerobic", thus no chemicals and no odor for the last three years.

Old Tank

New Tank

Brian

 

[bc282]

Talked to my marine chandlery and a replacement pump (155-6110-12) is about $570Cdn. Replacement tank with pump is likely north of $1200.
Why they put the pump inside and exposed to the raw water and effuent is beyond me. Pump is probably corroded to non-recognition! There is no other make for replacement and no re-build option (probably badly corroded anyways).

My access to tank is less difficult to see the tank (just remove screws holding the cover of aft opening, but don't have direct overhead access which would be nice to work on the unit.

anyone know of a good place for a sweet price on a pump?

 

[Grog]

Right now I'm starting the same project as you. I haven't pulled off the top yet (yea I'm stalling) plus it's about 1/2 full. If the pump can't be resurected, I'll make a new plate with an extention into the tank to bolt onto the top and use a standard macerator pump to suck out the goo.

 

[bc282]

Grog,
I went to my local "eco-barge" (aka. floating sani-station) and thoroughly pumped and flushed the tank before intending to open the tank up.
if you think there might be some harded junk that wasn't pumped out, add some enzymes to break it down, wait a day or two, and try pumping it out again.
Before i open mine up, i will use fresh water from my boat to fill the tank and have it pumped out (probably do a few times).
As you can see, there is no clear vertical access on my tank, so i'll be literally head to tank with little room to turn or run so it'll better be clean.

 

[Grog]

Mine's already in my garage. There doesn't seem to be any "hardened junk", but I'll know for sure when I pop off the cover tonight. If I bring it in the house, the wife will kill me so it's a covet operation to dump it in the sewer clean-out.

Isn't it kinda cold where you are now?