This past week end I went to the water and tried to check the condition of my boat's Head. The jabsco is the type w/ push pump and it uses sea water for flushing. I started opening the valve under the stairs for the water to come in and nothing, then i dropped some water from the sink and the pump works (flushed as it should), but after changing the knob for the water to come in and pumping again, nothing did happen. Does anybody have any idea about what's causing the problem? Could be the valve or could be that the system needs a repair kit? As far as i know the former owner did not used it for a very long time,. Any opinions? Thanks
Help w/ the Head .
- Thread starter Cadeco
- Start date
Is there a strainer on the water feed? It may be clogged.
It is also possible that the through hull fitting is clogged with marine growth.
When you press the button, do you hear the pump run? If it does run but no water enters the bowl, you may have a bad pump (impeller), a leaky gasket somewhere or maybe a bad joker valve.
Do you know the make and model of the toilet? Some of the manufacturers sites have trouble shooting tables.
It is also possible that the through hull fitting is clogged with marine growth.
When you press the button, do you hear the pump run? If it does run but no water enters the bowl, you may have a bad pump (impeller), a leaky gasket somewhere or maybe a bad joker valve.
Do you know the make and model of the toilet? Some of the manufacturers sites have trouble shooting tables.
Model/year of boat?
If you can see the 'valve' it would be pretty obvious if it was a seacock since there would be one hose connected to one end of the valve with the other end mounted to the hull (with a through hull)
The seacock itself will have a handle that is turned half a turn to open or close the seacock
If you can see the 'valve' it would be pretty obvious if it was a seacock since there would be one hose connected to one end of the valve with the other end mounted to the hull (with a through hull)
The seacock itself will have a handle that is turned half a turn to open or close the seacock
Hookup1
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It is a pretty simple system. The head has a lever on it. In one position it brings water into the bowl. In the other position it empties the bowl into the holding tank. Does this work properly? If not make sure you can get water in and pump into holding tank. You may need to rebuild the head seals and valves. From here you can have the marina pump out the tank for you.
Pumping out of the holding tank overboard is a very different situation. If you are ok on the first part test this part. If problems post here. Given the previous owned didn't use it I would expect problems with the in-tank macerator.
Pumping out of the holding tank overboard is a very different situation. If you are ok on the first part test this part. If problems post here. Given the previous owned didn't use it I would expect problems with the in-tank macerator.
Ok. Let's start for what I forgot to tell. The boat is a 1998 268 Islander. The toilet is a Jabsco 29020-2000 Manual toilet standard bowl ( hand pump ). There are 2 Seacocks under the stairs (one for inlet on the starboard side and the other on port side for the discharge). If I drop water from the sink into the bowl, and pump (as supposed to do for flushing) it works, but pumping for catch/replace water to the bowl after that for a next use it does not bring seawater in.
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Same setup as my 1997 268 Islander. Either the water flow from the input seacock isn't flowing or there is a valve problem in the head hand pump. There is a rebuild kit for the head pump.
I have never had the hose off or taken the pump apart. I would start by trying to find out if the hose is blocked. It's been sitting a while and it's a likely cause.
I have never had the hose off or taken the pump apart. I would start by trying to find out if the hose is blocked. It's been sitting a while and it's a likely cause.
Assuming the seacock is open and not blocked, you may have a leaky pump. There are kits to rebuild but it may pay to replace the pump with a new and improved unit.
I think this is your part
Jabsco Twist N' Lock Pump Assembly F/29090 & 29120 Series
JABSCO MANUAL PUMP ASSEMBLY FOR 29090SERIES ...
www.hodgesmarine.com
That's what i was thinking. I will try to check the seacock this weekend ( boat is on the trailer), but if is a blockage i will deal w/it and anyway replace the pump. Thanks very muchAssuming the seacock is open and not blocked, you may have a leaky pump. There are kits to rebuild but it may pay to replace the pump with a new and improved unit.
I think this is your part
Jabsco Twist N' Lock Pump Assembly F/29090 & 29120 Series
JABSCO MANUAL PUMP ASSEMBLY FOR 29090SERIES ...
Thanks. I will try to see if the problem is w/ the seacock or the pump. By the way. do you leave the two seacocks valves always open or open and close as you need ?
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By law you should have the output valve wired closed. I don't and risk a fine even though I would never pump out inshore. Input side is legal to be open all the time.
Interesting question. The discharge seacock is only used when emptying the holding tank into the sea. There are areas where it is legal to discharge and places where it is not. In my area, overboard discharge is not allowed with 3 miles of the coast line.
You are also required to provide some sort of protection that prevents accidental discharge when in no-discharge areas.There are several ways to do that: A system may have a selector valve that allows the holding tank to connect to the overboard discharge or the dock pumpout fitting. If you have that valve, it can be locked in the pumpout position. I believe it is acceptable to use a tie wrap instead of a lock ( the Y valve has holes in the handle and valve body for a lock.
If there is no Y valve, the handle of the overboard discharge seacock must be closed and either held closed with a tie wrap, lock, etc or closed and then the handle removed.
A third option for some electric toilets is a key switch that disables the macerator motor for the holding tank.
All that said, in general seacocks should only be left open when the outing needs it open. For example, when docked, all seacocks should be closed unless needed ( AC raw water for example if using AC)
The seacock for overboard discharge should only be opened during actual overboard discharge operation.
You are also required to provide some sort of protection that prevents accidental discharge when in no-discharge areas.There are several ways to do that: A system may have a selector valve that allows the holding tank to connect to the overboard discharge or the dock pumpout fitting. If you have that valve, it can be locked in the pumpout position. I believe it is acceptable to use a tie wrap instead of a lock ( the Y valve has holes in the handle and valve body for a lock.
If there is no Y valve, the handle of the overboard discharge seacock must be closed and either held closed with a tie wrap, lock, etc or closed and then the handle removed.
A third option for some electric toilets is a key switch that disables the macerator motor for the holding tank.
All that said, in general seacocks should only be left open when the outing needs it open. For example, when docked, all seacocks should be closed unless needed ( AC raw water for example if using AC)
The seacock for overboard discharge should only be opened during actual overboard discharge operation.
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Technically YES.
No y-valve on the 268 Islander. You can wire it shut or if you are nice to the Coast Guard and appear genuine maybe a ty-wrap will do. At least close it!
In 25 years of boating in NJ and FL I have never been boarded.
No y-valve on the 268 Islander. You can wire it shut or if you are nice to the Coast Guard and appear genuine maybe a ty-wrap will do. At least close it!
In 25 years of boating in NJ and FL I have never been boarded.
Well, Yes I do not intend to discharge inshore, I know that one must be at minimum of 3 miles out for discharge, my question was more to do with intake because would be a pain to be going to the seacock at any time someone would use the toilet.
Thanks guys.
Thanks guys.
If you look at the stats for sinkings , the vast majority are due to equipment failure at the dock. Most of those are water intrusion due to leaks , often plumbing for seacocks like hoses and pumps.
So, statistically, it makes sense to close all seacocks when boat is not in use.
I agree that on many vessels it is a royal pain to operate the seacocks. Some models make it a lot easier but many, especially older hulls like mine are poorly designed.
I tend to leave seacocks closed even when at sea depending on what I will be doing and who is on the boat ( do I need to use the head?).
The down side is that seacocks should be frequently operated to keep them in shape.
So, statistically, it makes sense to close all seacocks when boat is not in use.
I agree that on many vessels it is a royal pain to operate the seacocks. Some models make it a lot easier but many, especially older hulls like mine are poorly designed.
I tend to leave seacocks closed even when at sea depending on what I will be doing and who is on the boat ( do I need to use the head?).
The down side is that seacocks should be frequently operated to keep them in shape.
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Compared to larger boats I deal with the GW's are at very low risk of sinking from a thru hull. My surveyor tells me most small boats sink in the owners driveway due to leaving drain plug in and not keeping the batteries charged!
The Islander only has 4 thru hulls below the waterline. Head in/out, saltwater washdown and baitweill. All have heavy duty hoses. The Rule bait well pump is the weak link. It has a snap in pump and plastic housing attached to the thru hull. At least its in a place where no-one steps or stores anything.
And to SEASICK's point you should regularly work the thru hulls especially when the boat stays in the water. They tend to jam up with marine growth and will need to be replaced.
Best advise is to install a high water alarm. With a GW style hull you may not realize you are taking on water. If it gets too far ahead of you the bilge will be full and you can't see what is going on. GW bilges are normally very dry so an alarm can be close to the bottom of the hull to give early warning with no false alarms.
The Islander only has 4 thru hulls below the waterline. Head in/out, saltwater washdown and baitweill. All have heavy duty hoses. The Rule bait well pump is the weak link. It has a snap in pump and plastic housing attached to the thru hull. At least its in a place where no-one steps or stores anything.
And to SEASICK's point you should regularly work the thru hulls especially when the boat stays in the water. They tend to jam up with marine growth and will need to be replaced.
Best advise is to install a high water alarm. With a GW style hull you may not realize you are taking on water. If it gets too far ahead of you the bilge will be full and you can't see what is going on. GW bilges are normally very dry so an alarm can be close to the bottom of the hull to give early warning with no false alarms.
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