Hot Water Heater 265 Express
- Thread starter Bob Meola
- Start date
Drain it - just like you would do with your home HWH. Bypass it by connecting the cold and hot water lines together. When you run the pink stuff through your cold water line, the pink stuff will also go through your hot water lines.
Hookup1
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Pump out water. Drain and Bypass water heater Add a gallon of pink antifreeze and pump thru.
Then I blow out the system with low pressure (air compressor turned way down).
You don’t have to use the antifreeze but you don’t get all the water out with just air.
Then I blow out the system with low pressure (air compressor turned way down).
You don’t have to use the antifreeze but you don’t get all the water out with just air.
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Bob - When you drain your water tanks i would watch how much water actually comes out. I was having issues with mine not winterizing correctly and I found something (must be sediment ) is blocking the tank from emptying all the fresh water. The only way for me to get around it is to put 6 gallons of anti freeze in the system and flush it all through the hot water tank . Cost a few bucks more but it has done the job for several seasons.
Oh... you probably know this, but... when you drain it, be sure to open the expansion valve so the tank drains completely/better. You can open hot water faucets, as well/instead of, but the expansion valve seems to work better/faster.
2007 Marlin 300 >>>> I drain the water tank and the hot water heater .... In my years of servicing hot water tanks / heaters., I don't open the relief valve if I don't have to. The odds are it is not going to reseal when you close it .. I installed a shut off valve and a tee with a drain on the Water tank. . " TANK >> SHUT OFF >> TEE/ DRAIN>>> PUMP AND HOSE FEEDING THE SYSTEM.... After draining the tank, I shut the valve which will isolate the tank from the system .. Then I connect a Compressor to the Tee/Drain and blow out the heater , pump, faucets ( all of them), Everything in the fresh water system distal of the tank. As I go, I open and close faucets and the Hot water tank drain valve, alternating between each... I go back and forth till i am satisfied that all the moisture is blown out from the fresh water system . I have a similar set up for the wash down, live well, A/C unit and Generator. I Flush the A/C and generator with fresh water and then with Anti Freeze. I Drain the shower sump, and add some antifreeze, and throw a couple gallons of antifreeze into the head and flush. I throw some antifreeze into the hull just as a precaution for any water that may be still not drained.
I made up Brass Tee's That are installed between the thru hull shut offs and the corresponding systems. The same sequence as described above. The Bull side of the Tee has a brass Male pipe thread to male garden hose thread fitting. I normally seal this off with a brass hose thread cap and hose washer.. . I have an adapter for my compressor that ends in a female garden hose connector . I remove the cap from the Tee , Shut off the thru hull,, connect the compressor, and blow out what ever system I an winterizing . All I can say is it works well ... For the AC and Genny , I do the same but flush with a garden hose , rather than compressed air. Then I have a container filled with antifreeze, with a female garden hose outlet and connect that to the fittings on the AC and Generator lines . I run both till "pink" comes out . No pumps are needed. the antifreeze pumps thru the strainers and pumps of these systems. After I am done I open all the thru hull shut offs.
I made up Brass Tee's That are installed between the thru hull shut offs and the corresponding systems. The same sequence as described above. The Bull side of the Tee has a brass Male pipe thread to male garden hose thread fitting. I normally seal this off with a brass hose thread cap and hose washer.. . I have an adapter for my compressor that ends in a female garden hose connector . I remove the cap from the Tee , Shut off the thru hull,, connect the compressor, and blow out what ever system I an winterizing . All I can say is it works well ... For the AC and Genny , I do the same but flush with a garden hose , rather than compressed air. Then I have a container filled with antifreeze, with a female garden hose outlet and connect that to the fittings on the AC and Generator lines . I run both till "pink" comes out . No pumps are needed. the antifreeze pumps thru the strainers and pumps of these systems. After I am done I open all the thru hull shut offs.
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Actually, based on my actual experience doing this, I have NEVER had one NOT reseat. It's a simple valve, there's really nothing to go wrong. My "experience", to qualify -- so you don't think I'm making it up
-- 10 years with the hot water heater in my Sundancer... 30 years of doing this on a professional level with boats... countless times doing it with my home's HWT... over 20 years doing this with a HWT tank at our cabin in Maine. Yes, believe it or not, that's the SAME HWT... and it might be more like 25 years old!Besides, it's GOOD to do it to know that it's not stuck as that could turn into a HUGE bomb, otherwise!
These valves can build up calcium and other mineral deposits on the seat, thus allowing them to leak... My experience is 30 years of servicing commercial laundry Equipment and commercial boilers .... but your point about knowing it's not stuck is very valid ... sorry If i upset you ,,, So if in the spring, when you turn the HW back on and it does't re-seat properly get ready to replace the valve . .. There is no need to open the expansion valve as opening the hot water faucets will accomplish the same result in emptying the HW Heater .... to each their own ....
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No, not upset at all. Sometimes it's probably hard to tell someone's mood via typing only.
I've just found that in some boats there is sometimes a dip in a water line and then the tank either doesn't drain or, at least, takes a long time using a faucet.
My only point is that opening the valve is a reliable method and one shouldn't shy away from it for feat of it not seating since that is more the extreme rare case than realistically possible. I guess if it doesn't seat then that's telling you it's time to replace it... and it's probably better to know that now than the middle of the season.
It's really 6 of one and a half dozen of the other (valve or faucet).
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I agree with this-but it can be a self fulfilling prophesy. not ever cycling it can lead to it not sealing the one time you do try it. If you have one that you don't know the history on or if your'e sure it's never been cycled- then yes I agree don't touch it if you can avoid it. better yet, replace it before it becomes trouble. After that, I think if you reached in there a couple of times a season, you wouldn't have any issues with it.