How big an issue?

PDX-Boats

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I'm looking at a 2008 boat and noticed the highlighted area in this photo. The seller says that it's just a little electrolysis on the metal but doesn't extend further.
Thoughts? Anyone experience this with their boat?
20200816_192511.jpg
 
Pretty common corrosion on the bang plate. The important part is to make certain that the transom is not wet. That year boat had Greenwood XL in the transom which won't rot though. I have a 2007 330 and my bang plate had less, but similar corrosion when I bought it in 2011. I removed the screws and re-caulked the screw holes. I also routinely put corrosion control compound on the plate to keep that under control. GW is using a different material on the bang plate now. Some have replaced that plate with stainless or plastic, but it requires lifting the engines.
 
I haven't had the survey done yet but wanted to run this by some other Grady owners first before I lay out $750 for the survey. No reason to spend that money on a survey of this is obviously a non-starter.
 
Per response above, I agree that I don't think it will tell you anything definitive. Mine looks like that, but the transom is solid.
 
Thanks guys. I'm going to go ahead with the survey.
That'll tell the tale but your input was important. I probably wouldn't have proceeded without it!
 
305 Express you will love it we just got our 2007 a month ago and cannot be happier
 
Just replaced that bang plate on my 265 . You can get new plastic pieces from GW Customer Service
 
Just replaced that bang plate on my 265 . You can get new plastic pieces from GW Customer Service
Are the new ones plastic vs Stainless? Seems like stainless would be better but I'm not suggesting that I know better than Grady. :)
 
I am actually waiting to pull mine and then I will fabricate a stainless steel plate to take it's place.

R
 
Just get the new grady stuff. Color matches perfect. Looks like the new models and doing it in stainless adds no additional transom support. First glance it looks non oem
 
Not doing it because it adds more strength, doing it because it lasts longer than the cheap stuff they used to make it out of and looks nice, and because I have the ability to make it myself.
 
Glass it closed you never have to worry about it again.
 

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Not doing it because it adds more strength, doing it because it lasts longer than the cheap stuff they used to make it out of and looks nice, and because I have the ability to make it myself.

Grady didn't use the low quality aluminum angle on the transom cap because they were trying to cut costs. They did it because it is lower on the galvanic scale so it becomes the anode for the outboard motor resting on it. The aluminum of the outboard becomes the cathode and the "cheap" aluminum bang plate the anode when saltwater is present where they touch. That's why Grady went to a nylon type material, so there would be no electrolisis at that juncture. When two dissimilar metals are in contact in the presence of saltwater the one lowest on the galvanic scale corrodes. Aluminum is much lower on the chart than stainless steel so the aluminum is corroded away while the stainless is not harmed. This is why stainless steel is a poor choice for a bang plate. Sorry for straying from the gist of this thread but seeing things being suggested that are not in the best interest of our members (in my opinion of course) made me do it.
The old saying..."read before you bleed"
https://www.fenestration.net/pdf_documents/About-Dissimilar-Metals.pdf
 
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Grady has no less than 4 anodes in the engine, one on the lower unit, and one really large one on the transom bracket that is there for the purpose you speak of.

Grady did not add those, Mercury did. The transom Metal is so thin as to be laughable and one of the largest threats not to corrosion, but to the transom itself. More often than not, that part gets ignored until the transom is soft and needs to be replaced. The fact that I am swapping it out is not due to ignorance, it is due to the fact that IT catching salt and corrosion takes a far far back seat to my ability to properly wash, flush, maintain the boat.

So, I do not need to “read before I bleed”, I know exactly what I am doing.
If you guys spent less time telling me every single thing I suggest is wrong, you might learn something yourself.

Do what you want, but I am tired of having every suggestion I make thrown out as foolish.

Everything I do is very well researched. I make mistakes, but I am tired of having my suggestions continuously mocked.

I am not the first or only one to have done this”upgrade”.

Point in case, 3 individual posts in the past few months not only suggested the same thing, they also showed pictures of the work. Where was your name calling to them and their suggestions? I didn’t think so.

Every time I make a suggestion, someone feels the need to call me on it. Fine, that is okay, but follow your own rules and be respectful and stop calling my suggestions foolish. Not everything Grady does is followed by any of you 1100 percent. Anyone that says they have a 100 percent oem boat is wrong. We make improvments, so does Grady.

OP, sorry...did not mean to hijack. I was offering a suggestion. Do what you wish, and enjoy it no matter what.
 
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@boats you seem to be asking the right questions. Please take anything anyone, me included, says with a grain of salt. WE do not have to live with the boat, you do...heh. You seem to have a good head on your shoulders as you are asking the right questions.

The survey will take it further and then, as you own it and learn it, you are going to figure it out.

I am sorry your post got side-tracked. Please let us know how it cones out and post a photo of you with a big ol smile when you get whatever you get.
Russ
 
Went with the stainless bang plate as shown in my post under "Bang Plate: Worked out fine with absolutely no sign of corrosion due to dissimilar metals. However I did separate the the motor mount from the stainless bang plate with a thick layer of sikaflex. Believe it will certainly outlast me!
 
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Aluminum is totally fine too and bet it looks great. I bet you could have a much thicker aluminum cap made and would last much longer than the thin one. The 5200 is Definitely a must.