How to tell a wet transom?

fishingFINattic

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Well,
This may sound stupid, but I am not sure if this is a problem....

On my 2000 265 express, one of the stainless thru hulls out the back broke right at the end.

brokenthruhull.jpg


I was thinking about how this would possibly break? The only thing I could think is that if the transom wood was wet and expanded over winter.
I removed the thru hull and the goop that seals it in place. A little water (salt water) came out once I broke the goop seal (about a teaspoon of running liquid).

So am I really in trouble here? I think that the 2000's model years have that no rott wood. The wood is not rotten. I have no idea were the water is coming from.

Any thoughts?

Tim
 

Grog

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How did the fitting break? Just because the wood will not rot, it doesn't mean it will not delaminate and become basically useless. Get it checked by a pro.
 

fishingFINattic

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I am trying to figure out how it broke....
the only thing I could think of is that the wood was wet and this winter it froze and expanded.
Tim
 

gw204

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fishingFINattic said:
I am trying to figure out how it broke....
the only thing I could think of is that the wood was wet and this winter it froze and expanded.
Tim

That's possible, but my vote goes to a manufacturing defect.

Remove the thru hull and inspect the core in that area. You may also have to drill some exploratory holes to see how far (if at all) the water has migrated.
 

fishingFINattic

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gw204 said:
fishingFINattic said:
I am trying to figure out how it broke....
the only thing I could think of is that the wood was wet and this winter it froze and expanded.
Tim

That's possible, but my vote goes to a manufacturing defect.

Remove the thru hull and inspect the core in that area. You may also have to drill some exploratory holes to see how far (if at all) the water has migrated.

This is the second time one of these broke. A thru-hull on the other side broke last year.

I did remove the thru hull. It is sealed in with a layer of 4200 (or similiar).... there is water behind the layer of sealant.... (In other words I took the fitting out and could not see wood, once I broke the 4200 I had about a teaspoon of water leak out)

If this was a manufactur defect, and broke while in the water last season, then that would explain everything....

I was thinking about exploritory holes, but I am not sure how to repair them?

Tim
 

NIGHTIDES

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Which came first... the chicken or the egg..??

I have seen plastic thru the transom fittings with a radial crack just like yours. Figured it was due to over-torqueing of the fitting during Grady's rigging of the boat. Either way it needs to be checked out a bit more. I hope it amounts to nothing of concern.
 

gradyfish22

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You may not have much damage done, or any, but this would be a cause of major problems. A marine surveyor can check the transom with a meter and see if it is damp, you might get luck and a local yard may have one and be cheaper. Regardless, you will need that fixed, and determining the cause is important to prevent it from happening again. Hopefully the transom is good, if not Grady coveres the core, but not the work. Not sure if you have hull warranty left over, but then they might cover more of it, I would look into that now and have it all checked over before it is too late for them to cover the bulk of it. If it does require transom work, you may want to move the scuppers up if you have not already, I know you mentioned you knew someone who had to handle more engine weight since Grady did not make that change until older models. It is possible that this is another reason why they did that on future models.
 

Brad1

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gradyfish22 said:
. . . Hopefully the transom is good, if not Grady coveres the core, but not the work. . . .

For the original owner of the boat, replacement wood, labor and all associated materials are covered in the 1st 10 years. After that, only the replacement wood and labor is covered, but not the associated materials.
I obtained a copy of the wood warranty before I bought my boat. The warranty is not through Grady, but through the manufactorer of the wood.



FishingFINattic, you said the thru hull fitting is stainless. So they're not the OEM fittings? I' not sure what Grady was using in 2000, but my '03 has chrome over bronze.
 

fishingFINattic

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Brad1 said:
gradyfish22 said:
. . .

FishingFINattic, you said the thru hull fitting is stainless. So they're not the OEM fittings? I' not sure what Grady was using in 2000, but my '03 has chrome over bronze.

I think I have mistated.... they do look to be chrome over bronz....

I am going to the Grady dealer today and talk to them.

Tim
 

Curmudgeon

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Couple of things come immediately to mind:

Is the fitting actually "broken", as in thru and thru, or is it only compromised surface plating?

Did the "goop" extend into the hole past the area of the "break"?

Did the water leak from the transom itself, or was it in the fitting/hose/bilge and flowed when the fitting was removed?

Have you "sounded" the transom? Do it with a small hammer like looking for a wall stud to hang a picture; good transom will sound like the hollow wall, wet transom will sound dead like the stud.

Yes, you have something that warrants further attention. It's not a major deal, however, until you determine it's not a minor one ... :?
 

fishingFINattic

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Is the fitting actually "broken", as in thru and thru, or is it only compromised surface plating?
Yes, broken in two pieces, the part you see from outside is completely seperated.

Did the "goop" extend into the hole past the area of the "break"?
It does not appear to

Did the water leak from the transom itself, or was it in the fitting/hose/bilge and flowed when the fitting was removed?
It was from the transom itself, actually, once the fitting was removed, a barrier of 4200 formed a membrane so I could not see the wood. Once I popped the membrane, water leaked out.

Have you "sounded" the transom? Do it with a small hammer like looking for a wall stud to hang a picture; good transom will sound like the hollow wall, wet transom will sound dead like the stud.
I have, but I cant tell, it all sound different, but due to the supports that are connected inside of the boat, and the close proximity to the side, I cant be confident.
 

fishingFINattic

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Good news,

Went to Grady..... not super common but spoke with them about the current condition and they said most likely nothing is ruined. They said they have alot of boats with water in the transom. When they remove the boat plug fitting it is not uncommon to see water.

They refered me to a great guy who does alot of surveying for them and has all of the tools.

Spoke with him awhile. His belief is that the thru-hull became weak due to electrolisis and brole last season while in the water. The sacraficial zinc gets eaten up pretty quickly. I have been in an old marina with lots of older bigger boats. He told me that the green coloring around the crack is the tell tale.

He recommended that I drill a 3/16 exploratory hole two inches below the thru hole.

I did that and only dry wood came out so I am going to let it dry, put it back together and not worry about it for this season.

I will be sure to check these in the fall when I yank the boat out.

Thanks for the help.

Tim
 

Curmudgeon

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Watch it and see if it continues to weep. If not, let it dry out, coat it with resin, and you should be fine to reinstall a new fitting. Good luck with it ...
 

eppem

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hey tim,

reading this a tad late but i was gonna say just call don at boats inc...keep us posted on how you make out and i will check all my fittings as well.
 

gradyfish22

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Tim, if your zincs are breaking down that fast, there may be other issues, not always from your boat, but possibly from a neighboring boat. I've seen boats near others that have causes problems, one boat has a short and all around it had issues with zincs not lasting as long as they should and other issues arising from this. If you see boats around you with no zincs or bad zincs, that boat is likely effecting you as well, you may need to say something, or add another zinc or two to your boat to possibly cut down on the electrolysis as a preventive measure. Glad to hear there is no major damage to the transom. Good luck and enjoy the season!!!

Tom
 

Grog

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Do any boats near you have shore power? If it's not properly isolated, it will cause problems and zincs will be eated alive, and when they're done it goes after other metals. Don't go for a swim in the area either.
 

gradyfish22

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Grog, great advice, many after market shore power installs lack an proper isolation, many DIYer's forget to add these components or simply just do not know about them. Older boats may also not have them, or they may not be working properly.
 

fishingFINattic

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Grog said:
Do any boats near you have shore power? If it's not properly isolated, it will cause problems and zincs will be eated alive, and when they're done it goes after other metals. Don't go for a swim in the area either.

This is exactly what the survey suspects since the marina is an old marina with huge boats that just sit there.
I am switching marinas this year so that shouldnt happen again.

I think it is all good, the exploratory hole chips were dry, and the actual hole for the thru-hull is all dry now....

I was concerned becaus I couldnt figure out why it would break in the water, but the corrosion makes sense.

Tim
 

BobP

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Check that SS faulty thru hull for stray current damage, it will be easy to see. You will see a loss of metal. Compare it to a new one.
The wood or sealant inside may even have a burnt odor and color. Stock your nose in there!

Your engine and boat zincs are never to be allowed to fret away during the season, and by weight have no less than 25 % left over when you pull the boat for the season. In the worse case until it is resolved, pull the boat mid season and replace all zincs.

Aviod leaving the boat connected to the dock electrically via power, phone, or cable tv connections for long periods of time. Leave the battery switches in the off position when leaving the boat. Verify the positive lines out of the batteries and into the switches are clean with no frayed insulation. Verify your always on feed to the auto bilge pump circuits is clean and no frayed or otherwise compromised insulation.

Check all your other thru hulls for stray current damage.