Ice box/storage in FWD fuel location, 226 Seafarer

[grady_22]

So I have been thinking of ways to free up more space/organize the cabin area into less of a clutter for the offshore trips that I have been taking on my 1988 226 Seafarer. My boat only has the main 93 gallon fuel tank installed and the large empty space forward of that tank where the aux. tank would be.

I had previously considered leaving this space empty in the event I wanted further fuel capacity. Since I have been achieving an average of 3 N.M. per gallon on my current setup, I have found that I have plenty of range with just the main tank and have since nixed the idea of installing an aux. tank.

I had also previously considered installing a watertight hatch in the panel above the space and just using it for ancillary storage, but that space is so large and deep it would make retrieving things that ended up in a corner a challenging prospect. Plus, it seems to always retain some level of moisture/humidity, so anything stored in there would become a mold factory.

I was thinking last night about the prospect of molding an insulated fiberglass box that would take up most of the area and fit beneath the floor panel. I would then install an appropriately sized hatch in the panel and use that space for clean ice storage. With the volume of this space, it should eliminate the deck and cabin space that currently gets occupied by 2 larger coolers for ice/frozen water bottles when I go offshore. I would likely still bring a small cooler to keep ballyhoo on ice, etc without polluting the clean ice storage.

So there are two issues I foresee right now. One is where to have the box drain. Since I will only being storing ice, it should be minimal drainage of meltwater. I could have it drain into the compartment below, but then I would have to have the second plug in the aft bulkhead out all of the time which allows water flow from the forward fuel compartment through the aft fuel compartment and into the bilge. An alternative would be to install a pump at the base of the box and pump the meltwater overboard, which would require some plumbing.

The second issue is installation of a sealing, low-profile hatch in the panel of the forward compartment that is capable of supporting someone standing on it.

Does anyone know the dimensions of that forward compartment off hand? I am trying to get an idea of volume but my boat is 50 miles away right now. Also, any insight/ideas appreciate as well.

Thanks!

 

[DennisG01]

I don't know the dimensions, but...

I think you've got a great idea going there. That space is a big, empty hole that needs to be used. A couple thoughts:

-- You could do a quick-n-dirty insulated cooler by simply using rigid insulation (from Home Depot, for example) that you either just cut and piece in there - along the walls and floor - or even use double-sided tape to stick them to the walls of the cavity. I'd add a piece to the underneath side of the hatch, too. This way, you wouldn't be doing anything permanent at this point.

-- Are you married to the idea of having the hatch watertight? The reason I ask is that I looked around for a large, watertight, flush-mounted hatch when I re-did my cockpit floor. "Good" ones weren't cheap. I don't remember exactly, but I think close to a grand. What if you used the existing hatch as the lid? You could add a hinge to the forward edge, a latch or even just a pull knob, and then maybe a gas shock or two to help lift and support it.

-- Mounting a bilge pump in there isn't a bad idea, but I'd definitely still want to be able to drain it. If it was me, I'd probably just go with a drain and skip the bilge pump. If you built the bottom of the cooler higher than the locker's floor, any bilge water would that would happen to slosh forward (which will be minimal to start with since your existing bilge pump will take care of most of the water). You'd probably only need to make the cooler's floor about 2" higher than the locker's floor... if that.

-- Maybe you could even section off the locker so you would still have some storage there, too. Say, enough for fenders and lines, for example. But it sounds like you use a lot of ice, though?

Good idea!

 

[grady_22]

I like the idea of the deck still being watertight as it is a self-bailing deck. If things get bad out there and I am ending up with a lot of water on the deck, I do not want to compromise the seaworthiness of the vessel due to water draining from above the deck essentially into the bilge.

I like the idea of somehow using the panel as the hatch, but I think using the whole panel might be cumbersome to open. I remember seeing a thread on here somewhere where someone was relocating the batteries into the open space under one of the panels and creating a hatch, but I could not seem to find it.

 

[DennisG01]

I think, though, that the amount of water that might get in through the small crack around the perimeter is going to minimal. Besides, another way to think about it is that if things are that bad, then you've got bigger problems as the water will be rushing into the cabin. If you really wanted to, you could build a drip ledge around the interior perimeter and tie that into your existing deck drains. Just another way to think about it!

I've had boats with hatches the size of yours (and larger), they are no more difficult to open than a small one. Actually, it would give you better access since the whole hatch is coming up, not just a portion of it. But, again, just another to think about it. Nothing done this way would be permanent, so you could always change it later.

 

[DennisG01]

It's not aluminum, but is one of the ones I had looked at (much less money than an industrial strength aluminum one)... http://thmarine.com/th-marine-products/ ... tches.html

My issue was I wanted something wider than 13" and the only way for me to get that was to go to one of those heavy duty aluminum things, and that brought the price way up. I ended up making my own hatch from fiberglass.

 

[suzukidave]

i would make sure the hatch seals.

my 190 has a non sealing hinged +/-18" square hatch into that area. the hatch gives good access to what i would call "damp storage" that becomes wet storage if i broach over the bow. there is a removable storage tray that fits in the hatch opening. the tray gets water in it from above when the hatch leaks.

the bottom of the compartment also gets wet from the hatch leaking and because water backflows through the pvc drain pipe that drains under the fuel tank leading to the rear bilge. it's usually not a lot of water but enough to make it nice and humid. i store extra fenders, kid's water toys, poly rope, a pike pole and a boarding ladder in there. i have not found much else i can leave down there. if was going to make better use of it i would install some open storage shelves off to the sides of the hatch for stuff to rest on while staying well above the floor.

 

[grady_22]

I am familiar with that hatch on the 190. On my previous Grady a 190 Tarpon, I replaced the fuel tank and moved it up to the forward part of the center space between the stringers. I replaced/relocated the two center bulkheads and turned the rear space into a finished fish box that used that panel with the hatch.

I am thinking I may just use one of the hatches that were in the link above. It just needs to be large enough to allow sufficient ice scoop access for filling the fish boxes/game bags.

 

[Reelman5703]

IF this thread is still alive, I am doing a very similar thing right now, 94 seafarer 226. I am losing the 96 gallon tank and putting in the 56 aux as my main where it was intended. I fish LI Sound so that is plenty of fuel for me.
I too thought about the extra storage and it so happens that the deck cover above the 96, soon to be locker, needs re-enforcement. I found a place that will take my deck cover and use that to "Drop in" a storage box with a cover like you described. I will simply have a drain plug at the bottom as I plan to have about a 4" void underneath it which will allow water to be pulled by bilge. I do not plan to use for Ice, but for storage.
This does a few things for me. When I went 225 4 stroke, the boat sits lower in the back due to heavier engine, so moving the gas weight forward will offset the weight a good deal. It also keeps me from re-enforcing that deck cover and adds more space.

Give me a week or so and I can give price and photos. I plan to bring the deck to the place this week.

As for measurements, I am using the specs I got from grady for the tanks, it gives you the dimensions to use for LXWXH.

 

[grady_22]

That sounds like a great plan if you are comfortable with the reduced fuel capacity. I ended up parting ways with my 226 seafarer, but once I get my new to me 92 244 Explorer back into shape, I may consider revisiting this idea for the new boat, as currently I only have the 93 g main tank.

 

[Reelman5703]

grady_22 - Plenty of fuel for me, I generally am within 10 miles from my port and plenty of gas around the harbors. I was told it will be ready the end of this week, but likely I think next week. I should be able to put some pix up when it is installed.

 

[gw204]

I would use the existing hatch and fabricate a gutter system that connects to the drains in the helm area.

Actually, I thought a lot it about as I was going to do the same thing. Since I had the tank out, my plan was to cut a piece of large diameter PVC in half and glass is down as a hollow stringer in the center of the hull that terminated in the aft bilge. Cut the folded mat that is between the stringer tops and floor bottom flush with the stringers and then securely tab the floor to the stringers and bulkheads. Glass some rigid foam to all 4 sides and the bottom of the box and gelcoat.

For drainage, I was just doing to drill a hole or two in the PVC stringer so any water would drain to the bilge and be pumped out.