Bought a new bilge pump for my Overnighter and am having a tough time with the installation. This is my first Grady White but I've previously owned several ProLines and a Steigercraft or two. Because of Grady's deep deadrise it's a long way to the to the bottom and almost impossible to reach with the screwdriver/drill needed to secure the bilge pump base. In addition, all of this must be accomplished while working through a 6" deck plate. Removing the larger fixed deck plate will be a lot of work but it appears to be the only way to access the bilge. Seems to me like a lot time and effort just to install a bilge pump, which will probably need replacement in a year or so anyway. Can any of you seasoned Grady owners recommend a good alternative method, or a pump system set up that does not need to be secured to the bottom? BTW, love the boat.
Installing aft bilge pump
- Thread starter mannoe
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SkunkBoat
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Its just screws and silicone.
remove the deck plate.
do your work. look around in there you might find other things that need to be done.
remove the deck plate.
do your work. look around in there you might find other things that need to be done.
First, bilge pumps should generally last a few decades - as long as you buy a good one to start with... and there are plenty of "good" ones. Removing the screwed down hatch actually isn't that big of a deal - it just looks like a daunting task because of the size of it. But, really, all it is... is some screws and some caulking. Cut the caulking - remove most of the excess (don't have to get all of it) with a plastic razor blade. Do your thing, check out the rest underneath (metal fuel tank?), re-install the hatch and re-caulk. Lay some nylon twine in the gap and caulk over top - remember which corner has the loose ends - next time you pull the hatch, dig that corner out and pull the twine.
Or, try using extensions and masking tape (to hold the screws) on your screw gun.
Are you sure the pump is bad? You verified it? Fuse... wires/connections... float... etc?
Also... is the current pump a "pop" out style? Meaning, it has a base plate that stays attached to the floor and the pump disconnects from the plate. If not, get that kind for the new one, if possible.
Or, try using extensions and masking tape (to hold the screws) on your screw gun.
Are you sure the pump is bad? You verified it? Fuse... wires/connections... float... etc?
Also... is the current pump a "pop" out style? Meaning, it has a base plate that stays attached to the floor and the pump disconnects from the plate. If not, get that kind for the new one, if possible.
For some reason, I had a two pack of bilge pumps. I only needed one (or so I thought) but that pump died and had to be replaced. The good news was that they were both the same and used the same click on base that has been mentioned. That makes the mechanical part a lot easier to do.
The wiring is a pain so I have been looking at waterproof connectors that I will butt splice to the existing feed and to the pump tail wires. I think that will be my standard going forward.
The wiring is a pain so I have been looking at waterproof connectors that I will butt splice to the existing feed and to the pump tail wires. I think that will be my standard going forward.
Thanks SkunkBoat. You've inspired me...I will pull the deck plate
Thank you Dennis for the disassemble/assemble tips. I've decided to pull out the deck plate. My new pump is a Rule with detachable basket. I always buy a new bilge pump when I buy a boat... a little quirk of mine maybe, but you never know how long the existing one has been in the boat. I know that bilge pumps live in harshest environment aboard and are often neglected. It's got to work right when you will need it.
Yes I have been there, and have had more than just a bilge pump to deal with, wash down pump shut off, bilge cleaning etc.so....... I removed the scrawny 6 inch hatch covers and installed two 10 " Armstrong covers, totally water proof(screw down tight on a O ring) with no compromise of splash well integrity. Now you can enjoy an afternoon with your butt higher than your head without too much damage to arms neck and back. Become one with your bilge so to speak!!
Another option is to place the strainer basket where you want it, then use a magnetic extension on your drill to shoot a drywall screw in one hole, to hold it in place. They are so sharp, they penetrate just about anything. Drill and seal your ss screws, replacing the drywall screw with the last one.
My boat has 2 of those pie plates in the well, so at least, I can hold a light in one and work through the other. I drilled a small hole through the casting on the bottom of each one, and connected them together with a piece of 100 lb mono, so that I wouldn't lose one offshore if I had to pop one out.
I complain about this every chance I get, but my '93 Tournament 22 only has one bilge pump, which is boxed in between the stringers and the bulkhead about a foot forward of the pump.
The only thing feeding the pump is a 3/4 pvc pipe, in a limber hole in the bulkhead. The volume of the hole can't keep up with the pump, so while it helps keep water out of the bilge, it would be useless in any real emergency, like a failed through hull fitting, or a golf ball sized hole.
I need to recore my aft deck hatch, so I will install another pump in front of the bulkhead, when I get around to that.
My boat has 2 of those pie plates in the well, so at least, I can hold a light in one and work through the other. I drilled a small hole through the casting on the bottom of each one, and connected them together with a piece of 100 lb mono, so that I wouldn't lose one offshore if I had to pop one out.
I complain about this every chance I get, but my '93 Tournament 22 only has one bilge pump, which is boxed in between the stringers and the bulkhead about a foot forward of the pump.
The only thing feeding the pump is a 3/4 pvc pipe, in a limber hole in the bulkhead. The volume of the hole can't keep up with the pump, so while it helps keep water out of the bilge, it would be useless in any real emergency, like a failed through hull fitting, or a golf ball sized hole.
I need to recore my aft deck hatch, so I will install another pump in front of the bulkhead, when I get around to that.
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