Having been a member of this forum for a couple of years now I am amazed of how often the "Scuppers below the water line" issue is presented. (Yet another one was mentioned recently) My 204 center console has the same problem. I find it hard to believe that a boat manufacturer with the reputation of Grady White has neither addressed this issue on this forum nor has it made any attempt to correct the problem. How many other GW boat owners are reluctant to keep their boats in a slip and face a potential disaster because of this design flaw?
Is Grady White ever going to address the scupper issue?
- Thread starter jdsmith
- Start date
It's not a design flaw.
If you want dry decks and scuppers above water line, have to raise the cockpit deck height. Have you ever noticed where your leg contacts the coming pad?
And do the same on other brands of same length and beam?
My scuppers are buried when the boat is on the water, never a drop on deck. I've been on boats where scuppers are sky highyet feet in water back there.
My buddy's 25 Parker, same length and beam, I'd flip over the gunnels on the rock and roll. Big difference on my Grady - the gunnel height.
At 6ft 1 inch, I would pass on the Parker purchase because of it, at least in the waters where I fish, damned near rolled the boat over beam to beam many many times. Wonder it hasn't already. Take water over the side on the dip.
I have to get down on my knees to keep from being tossed. Same goes for the smaller Albermarles. Ridiculous low gunnel heights.
Don't want to be swimming on fish days, and visa versa.
Use metal scuppers, labeled plyed hoses like A1 gas fill hoses, double clamps.
A none issue for the shorter guys or lake/bay guys.
If you want dry decks and scuppers above water line, have to raise the cockpit deck height. Have you ever noticed where your leg contacts the coming pad?
And do the same on other brands of same length and beam?
My scuppers are buried when the boat is on the water, never a drop on deck. I've been on boats where scuppers are sky highyet feet in water back there.
My buddy's 25 Parker, same length and beam, I'd flip over the gunnels on the rock and roll. Big difference on my Grady - the gunnel height.
At 6ft 1 inch, I would pass on the Parker purchase because of it, at least in the waters where I fish, damned near rolled the boat over beam to beam many many times. Wonder it hasn't already. Take water over the side on the dip.
I have to get down on my knees to keep from being tossed. Same goes for the smaller Albermarles. Ridiculous low gunnel heights.
Don't want to be swimming on fish days, and visa versa.
Use metal scuppers, labeled plyed hoses like A1 gas fill hoses, double clamps.
A none issue for the shorter guys or lake/bay guys.
Also, at least on mine, the scupper exits at the transom are WELL below the deck. So the deck is in no danger of taking on water (just the outlet of the scuppers and part of the hoses).
What engine do you have on that 204? If it's a modern EFI/DFI/4-stroke you may have a bunch more weight on there than it was designed to carry. Based on NADA, the heaviest engine offered in '84 was a Yamaha 220 V6 at 405 lbs. An OX66 Yamaha 150/200 is about 450lb. and a 225 OX66 is 495 or so... It's a 20' hull with most of the weight towards the stern. Even 50 lbs. extra will impact the way it sits.
It's probably heavier overall than when it left the factory too. Especially with open rod holders that drain into the hull...
It's probably heavier overall than when it left the factory too. Especially with open rod holders that drain into the hull...
BobP said:
This makes a great point.
While boat shopping in 1986, I was aware of the scupper issue, but prioritized the comfort and safety factor of having a relatively "deep" cockpit. I was comparing Gradys, most notably to Shamrocks as I recall, and the difference was substantial. I jumped in and out of a lot of other boats and eliminated all but the Grady in relatively short order for this very reason.
After living with the scupper issue for 24 years, I would charitably characterize it as a "design choice." After all, it seems to me that a design alternative would be to raise the cockpit deck height further above the waterline, while simultaneously increasing the freeboard distance. What can of worms that would create, I don't know.
I have not had the pleasure of riding on the newer Gradys. Does the scupper issue persist?
I think it depends on the model...i have seen some newer models at or above the waterline and some below.
One thing they can do to help eliminate the below waterline scupper is to design in a deck drain that is mounted horizontally on a vertical surface of the transom bulkhead, but set just below flush of the actual deck.....like a haws pipe configuration. The current method of using a typical below deck drain results in the drain hose heading to the stern about 3 inches below the deck before exiting the boat. By mounting it horizontally, the hose will end up only being about and inch and a half below the deck and that much higher above the existing scupper location...this will keep the current free board cockpit area that everyone likes.....it will just look a little different than most, kind of like a commercial fishing drain.
One thing they can do to help eliminate the below waterline scupper is to design in a deck drain that is mounted horizontally on a vertical surface of the transom bulkhead, but set just below flush of the actual deck.....like a haws pipe configuration. The current method of using a typical below deck drain results in the drain hose heading to the stern about 3 inches below the deck before exiting the boat. By mounting it horizontally, the hose will end up only being about and inch and a half below the deck and that much higher above the existing scupper location...this will keep the current free board cockpit area that everyone likes.....it will just look a little different than most, kind of like a commercial fishing drain.
richie rich said:
That is nothing short of pure genius ... anyone rebuilding a transom or cockpit deck for "other" reasons would be well advised to incorporate that modification.
Mine are below the water line too. I am so nervous I have only kept the boat in the water five months a year for the past 23 seasons 
. Did redo the the hoses a couple of seasons back though. Another owner here was nervous about it and came up with a pretty slick fix on his '87 Sailfish. I don't know if he had wet decks after or not. I felt it was a really clever solution for something I did not consider a problem. But to each his own.
. Did redo the the hoses a couple of seasons back though. Another owner here was nervous about it and came up with a pretty slick fix on his '87 Sailfish. I don't know if he had wet decks after or not. I felt it was a really clever solution for something I did not consider a problem. But to each his own.So many folks have a conniption about scuppers that are low, yet most everyone tools around with a big water scoop just waiting to bust a hose. And most of us tool around with thru-hulls that routinely get buried when not tied to a calm water dock ...
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Pez, thanks for the kudos, but this is something thats already out there, not my idea...just need a little mods to fit an individuals scenario if they even need it.
Gulf Grady, If your drain goes out the sides, but still uses the off the shelf Taco type shower drain hanging through the deck, the height of the outlet end of the drain (the barbed end) is still 3 inches below the deck.......if you mount it at 90* to the deck on the transom bulkhead and turn the drain end towards the gunwale for exiting, you will raise the exiting point a good 1.5 inches as its an "L" shaped drain. You will gain height. But as mentioned previously, does it matter? For those that it does, its an option.
Gulf Grady, If your drain goes out the sides, but still uses the off the shelf Taco type shower drain hanging through the deck, the height of the outlet end of the drain (the barbed end) is still 3 inches below the deck.......if you mount it at 90* to the deck on the transom bulkhead and turn the drain end towards the gunwale for exiting, you will raise the exiting point a good 1.5 inches as its an "L" shaped drain. You will gain height. But as mentioned previously, does it matter? For those that it does, its an option.