Is My Windlass Motor Toast?

[HBSteve]

I ran out my anchor line on dock to mark it and give it a fresh water rinse. While pulling it back, my Lewmar windlass (2005 version of V-700) began to run slower and slower. I paused it a few times but it would resume at the same speed it was paused (It didn't increase in speed at all after the pause). Within 30 seconds, it was done. No response. I was on shore power and all the 12V systems continued to run fine. The circuit breaker didn't trip.

Is there any other (less expensive) option I should consider before looking to replace it?

Thanks....

 

[Slacktime]

Sounds like your motor is toast. If you are reasonably mechanical you can replace it without replacing the whole unit. There is a guy in the UK who used to work for the company and knows where to get replacements. Contact him with your windlass # and he should be able to help you. I received mine in 2 days all the way from across the pond. Here is the website http://www.slspares.co.uk/parts.php?pro ... ric+Motors

good luck!

 

[Grouper Duper]

Those motors are simple, and don't fail very often. Have you verified 12v right at the motor? I would be suspicious of wiring/connections first, then the motor.

 

[HBSteve]

I have 12v leaving the switch but didn't check it at the windlass. It's tough because you have to reach up and under through the anchor locker. Would wiring cause the steady decrease in power over the span of 30 seconds? I always thought that wiring problems would be all on or all off? I like the idea of replacing just the motor. They're +/- $120 at west marine. Found out its actually a Simpson Lawrence Sprint 600 windlass.

 

[ahill]

I suspect a wiring issue. Probably corroded connections in he harness. As current draw creates heat, the slow down is probably caused by excessive draw linked to corrosion.

 

[HBSteve]

OK Thanks, I'll take a look at the connections at the harness. That would be easier and cheaper than a new motor. Appreciate your help! Thank You !

 

[Fishtales]

As stated the motors are fairly rugged. I took mine apart after it froze up and replaced the brushes and did a general lube before putting it all back together. Worked fine after that.
You'll need to pull it to replace it and it isn't really that bad to do anyway. A few tips. Seal any exposed wood with 4200 if it exists in the hole. I can't remember if so, but I always do that if observed. When pulled tape plastic over the hole while you are repairing to keep things out of the boat while working.

 

[HBSteve]

Thanks Fishtales. I'll be sure to follow that advice and am enroute to the slip this morning to get to work.