I posted this as a reply in the Classified Forum. Just cross-posting here where I think it belongs, in case it can help someone via the Search feature down the road. If anyone has any corrections, additions, or subtractions... by all means add to it. I owe this forum a few big thanks over the years! Cheers
******
I've been meaning to write this post up for a while, to contribute something more to the Board. Maybe I will start here and then cross-post on a new thread, for future searchers. I don't know if this has been posted before.
I've had this Jabsco system on a few used GW models 2006+ on 232, 275, 282. I am not sure of all the years/models that are equipped with this system but obviously if you have one, you know it. All of my used ones have had a variety of issues and I have learned a lot about how to correct them. I give all credit to www.marinesan.com in Seattle. They are very knowledgeable on ALL systems and will give you phone support on questions before ordering online. They make many of their own cleaning & treatment products that you will not find elsewhere. They helped me when everyone else said "get a new system". We are lucky to have them local. I am not affiliated with them at all.
Possible causes of control panel issues:
1) If showing full/flashing even when tank is known to be completely empty (i.e. verified by pump-out, not by macerating out) the issue may not be the panel. The tank level sensor is a plate that is mounted on the side of the tank. If the tank has calcium/sludge buildup on the inside, it can give false readings. Even if you pump-out regularly, the "rings" and the residue left behind as the level drains can build up on the tank walls and be "read" by the sensors.
2) If buildup is not possibly an issue, the panel may have been recalibrated to "Full" even if it is empty or in between. I will link to the calibration process below. The "Secret" button is behind the Jabsco logo and people/kids have been known to hold it down when trying to flush the toilet (or while on the toilet) and enter the calibration mode. Setting it to "Full" by mistake is then easy to do.
3) If the tank is always showing empty, the issue is likely the calibration again; this time calibrated to "Empty" even when it's full. This is a huge issue because a) the tank thinks it's empty and will not macerate for more than a few seconds and b) if you continue to use the tank when full (thinking that it's empty) eventually the tank will expand and you will seep out the access panel on the top and/or damage the O-ring and leak into the bilge.
4) If macerator will not start at all, this is not related to the panel. The issue may be with the macerator itself.
Possible solutions depending on your above scenario - and some of this could even be considered good maintenance, even if no issues:
1) If showing full/flashing constantly:
*You may want to inspect the inside of the (empty) tank visually first, to check for serious build-up. Maybe make this decision based on your known history of the tank? At the top of the tank, remove the round access plate and shine a flashlight inside. Inspect O-ring and threads of plate. This would be a good time to replace either. www.marinesan.com sells the plate and O-ring, but I don't think it's on their website (try phone). Be sure plate is replaced TIGHT - use large slot wrench or strap wrench.
a) Pump out the tank (not macerate). Fill with fresh water at pump-out plate and repeat pump out until it runs fairly clear.
b) Use No-flex Digestor for light build-up or regular cleaning. Follow MarineSan instructions. I let it sit overnight or 24+hours and repeat as needed:
marinesan.com
c) For heavy sludge/calcium, consider their Un-Chloric Acid treatment. Follow their instructions. This can make nasty tanks and lines "like new":
marinesan.com
2) If showing full/flashing, and once build-up is removed OR if build-up is not possibly an issue:
Follow the calibration instructions in the PDF below for an empty tank and a full tank (use fresh water to fill for "Full" calibration). I like to set the Full calibration with tank about 7/8 full, but this is personal preference.
3) If tank is always showing empty:
a) Verify tank is not empty by using pump-out (not macerator, which likely will not run more than a couple seconds anyways).
b) Consider inspecting for sludge/cleaning above in #1
c) Follow the calibration instructions in the PDF below for an empty tank and a full tank (use fresh water to fill for "Full" calibration). I like to set the Full calibration with tank about 7/8 full, but this is personal preference.
4) If macerator will not start at all:
a) There is a hand crank insert on the back of the pump. Remove the rubber nub and insert an Allen wrench to loosen it up.
b) Check inline fuse
c) I have even banged on them lightly with a rubber mallet or even carefully with a hammer tap. Can spring them back to life. Very technical.
*Products and Resources:
Marine Sanitation & Supply
Seattle, WA
Available for questions: 800.624.9111
*Some of these are proprietary to MarineSan. I have used with great success:
Noflex Digestor - regular use is best, or use for cleaning
Biotal Bowl Cleaner (Can be bought in a combo with Noflex)
Tank-Teria (regular treatment of a clean system - no odors)
Un-Chloric Acid - heavy duty cleaning or tear-down of system - can be "like new again"
Jabsco 38110 Series parts & calibration. - attached to this post and also linked below.
If this link becomes broken, you can easily search for the PDF:
*This is what I learned 10+ years ago on my first system (With help from MarineSan) and have repeated with success. I haven't had to tweak anything yet. The only parts I have bought are a new cap & O-ring for a couple of the tanks. So I hope you have the same luck. But I would love to hear of any corrections or additional info. This is obviously not the most "prized" head system, but I think people are a little quick to give up on them when not running properly. They can and should work properly for many years with some care & attention along the way. Good luck and wear gloves & glasses!
******
I've been meaning to write this post up for a while, to contribute something more to the Board. Maybe I will start here and then cross-post on a new thread, for future searchers. I don't know if this has been posted before.
I've had this Jabsco system on a few used GW models 2006+ on 232, 275, 282. I am not sure of all the years/models that are equipped with this system but obviously if you have one, you know it. All of my used ones have had a variety of issues and I have learned a lot about how to correct them. I give all credit to www.marinesan.com in Seattle. They are very knowledgeable on ALL systems and will give you phone support on questions before ordering online. They make many of their own cleaning & treatment products that you will not find elsewhere. They helped me when everyone else said "get a new system". We are lucky to have them local. I am not affiliated with them at all.
Possible causes of control panel issues:
1) If showing full/flashing even when tank is known to be completely empty (i.e. verified by pump-out, not by macerating out) the issue may not be the panel. The tank level sensor is a plate that is mounted on the side of the tank. If the tank has calcium/sludge buildup on the inside, it can give false readings. Even if you pump-out regularly, the "rings" and the residue left behind as the level drains can build up on the tank walls and be "read" by the sensors.
2) If buildup is not possibly an issue, the panel may have been recalibrated to "Full" even if it is empty or in between. I will link to the calibration process below. The "Secret" button is behind the Jabsco logo and people/kids have been known to hold it down when trying to flush the toilet (or while on the toilet) and enter the calibration mode. Setting it to "Full" by mistake is then easy to do.
3) If the tank is always showing empty, the issue is likely the calibration again; this time calibrated to "Empty" even when it's full. This is a huge issue because a) the tank thinks it's empty and will not macerate for more than a few seconds and b) if you continue to use the tank when full (thinking that it's empty) eventually the tank will expand and you will seep out the access panel on the top and/or damage the O-ring and leak into the bilge.
4) If macerator will not start at all, this is not related to the panel. The issue may be with the macerator itself.
Possible solutions depending on your above scenario - and some of this could even be considered good maintenance, even if no issues:
1) If showing full/flashing constantly:
*You may want to inspect the inside of the (empty) tank visually first, to check for serious build-up. Maybe make this decision based on your known history of the tank? At the top of the tank, remove the round access plate and shine a flashlight inside. Inspect O-ring and threads of plate. This would be a good time to replace either. www.marinesan.com sells the plate and O-ring, but I don't think it's on their website (try phone). Be sure plate is replaced TIGHT - use large slot wrench or strap wrench.
a) Pump out the tank (not macerate). Fill with fresh water at pump-out plate and repeat pump out until it runs fairly clear.
b) Use No-flex Digestor for light build-up or regular cleaning. Follow MarineSan instructions. I let it sit overnight or 24+hours and repeat as needed:
Noflex Digestor
Noflex Digestor Holding tank treatment from number 1 in the number 2 business. Creates oxygen in your system to allow natural bacteria to remove sludge and odors.
marinesan.com
Unchloric Acid
chemical, unchloric acid, holding tank, calcification, toilet, marine, break down, UNCHLORIC
marinesan.com
2) If showing full/flashing, and once build-up is removed OR if build-up is not possibly an issue:
Follow the calibration instructions in the PDF below for an empty tank and a full tank (use fresh water to fill for "Full" calibration). I like to set the Full calibration with tank about 7/8 full, but this is personal preference.
3) If tank is always showing empty:
a) Verify tank is not empty by using pump-out (not macerator, which likely will not run more than a couple seconds anyways).
b) Consider inspecting for sludge/cleaning above in #1
c) Follow the calibration instructions in the PDF below for an empty tank and a full tank (use fresh water to fill for "Full" calibration). I like to set the Full calibration with tank about 7/8 full, but this is personal preference.
4) If macerator will not start at all:
a) There is a hand crank insert on the back of the pump. Remove the rubber nub and insert an Allen wrench to loosen it up.
b) Check inline fuse
c) I have even banged on them lightly with a rubber mallet or even carefully with a hammer tap. Can spring them back to life. Very technical.
*Products and Resources:
Marine Sanitation & Supply
Seattle, WA
Available for questions: 800.624.9111
*Some of these are proprietary to MarineSan. I have used with great success:
Noflex Digestor - regular use is best, or use for cleaning
Biotal Bowl Cleaner (Can be bought in a combo with Noflex)
Tank-Teria (regular treatment of a clean system - no odors)
Un-Chloric Acid - heavy duty cleaning or tear-down of system - can be "like new again"
Jabsco 38110 Series parts & calibration. - attached to this post and also linked below.
If this link becomes broken, you can easily search for the PDF:
*This is what I learned 10+ years ago on my first system (With help from MarineSan) and have repeated with success. I haven't had to tweak anything yet. The only parts I have bought are a new cap & O-ring for a couple of the tanks. So I hope you have the same luck. But I would love to hear of any corrections or additional info. This is obviously not the most "prized" head system, but I think people are a little quick to give up on them when not running properly. They can and should work properly for many years with some care & attention along the way. Good luck and wear gloves & glasses!
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