I just purchased a 208 Grady-White year 2003 with a 200 Yamaha four stroke....love the boat so far....seems battleship tough and very roomy....for a twenty footer....anything I should know about this boat from veteran owners would be appreciated.... :mrgreen:
Just got a 2003 GW208....
- Thread starter gradydriver
- Start date
Congrats on your boat purchase. Lots of 208 Adventure owners here. It is, indeed, a very versatile boat. The F200 is the right engine. Hope you have many years of happy boating.
You need to post some photos.
You need to post some photos.
Just got the same boat also, 2002 with the 200 HPDi
Interested to hear comments, I went from the 180 Sportsman to the 208. All good so far, one draw back ! Summer is coming to an end
Interested to hear comments, I went from the 180 Sportsman to the 208. All good so far, one draw back ! Summer is coming to an end
Nice, you got a great boat. I just did a hard top on mine and love it. Can't beat vertical storage in a small boat and it really opens it up when fishing. And it looks cool. Other things I have learned, trim tabs are your friend on this hull. Just tab it down in a head sea and go. Also those little black rubber plugs in the live well and fish box are just small enough to go into the stern scuppers. But not out, don't ask me how I know. If you need a rear drop curtain I have a nearly new one to sell as well.
gradydriver said:
Congratulations on your purchase, that's a great boat that will provide you with many great days on the water and wonderful memories with the family. We have a 94 208 and the only problem that we have ever had was the fuel gauge sending unit in the tank that quit working a few years ago. Thanks to a new WEMA sender and Grady's easy access, it was back to working good as new in no time. The only thing that I can think of on your boat might be the motor and when it was last serviced. If you know it was serviced recently that's great but if not that might be something to consider just to make sure that things like the fuel filters, oil and water pump are fresh. If you trailer the boat, make sure that the trailer brakes and wheel bearings are in good shape.
I remove and store in the cabin my cushions when not being used. They will last a lot longer out of the sun. If you have bolsters, clean with boat soap and apply 303 aerospace protectant to protect the UV coating. The bolsters will last longer. If you have stains on the bolsters, try acetone. Do not use a Magic Eraser.
If you have fresh water option, flush the tank by putting the hose into the fill and running the water while the fill overflows. That helps flush the muck from the tank. Adding 1/2 oz of bleach to a tank of water will slow down algae growth. Find and clean the fresh water filter. It may be attached to the pump.
In addition to all of the standard maintenance tasks, make sure you know where ALL the motor and steering grease fittings are especially the one on the motor mid section. Grease at least once a season.
Make sure that the drain tubes from the rode locker and the fuel tank compartment allow water to run back to the bilge. The rode locker may not drain unless the bow is tilted up.
Clean and lube with a bit of lithium grease the access plate flanges and seals.
Grady recommends that the fuel tank be rinsed once in a while. Use the mid access plate opening to flush the tank. Open rear and motor well plates also to help air things out. This is also a good way to test the automatic bilge pump. Using the manual bilge option will drain more water than the auto. On that boat the bilge should remain pretty dry and you should rarely see the bilge pump working.
I use Woody wax on my deck and on the stainless. It works quite well when applied as directed.
I apply a water proofing liquid to my soft top and helm cover. I now use StarBrite and it is less expensive than other treatments. It holds up a long time.
Make sure you open and close the sea cocks every now and then to keep them from freezing up. I do not turn mine off when docked although Grady recommends that you do so. They are a pain to get to and operate unless you have the extension rods.
Flush your motor after every outing. EVERY one.
If you have the live well option, run it every now and then even if you don't need to use it. Note that both mid lockers will stay damp so don't store anything that doesn't like water
Motor trim makes a big difference on bow steer which can be fairly pronounced on 208s. You will learn over time what trim works best. Trim tabs will make a lot of difference also.
Good luck. Safe boating
If you have fresh water option, flush the tank by putting the hose into the fill and running the water while the fill overflows. That helps flush the muck from the tank. Adding 1/2 oz of bleach to a tank of water will slow down algae growth. Find and clean the fresh water filter. It may be attached to the pump.
In addition to all of the standard maintenance tasks, make sure you know where ALL the motor and steering grease fittings are especially the one on the motor mid section. Grease at least once a season.
Make sure that the drain tubes from the rode locker and the fuel tank compartment allow water to run back to the bilge. The rode locker may not drain unless the bow is tilted up.
Clean and lube with a bit of lithium grease the access plate flanges and seals.
Grady recommends that the fuel tank be rinsed once in a while. Use the mid access plate opening to flush the tank. Open rear and motor well plates also to help air things out. This is also a good way to test the automatic bilge pump. Using the manual bilge option will drain more water than the auto. On that boat the bilge should remain pretty dry and you should rarely see the bilge pump working.
I use Woody wax on my deck and on the stainless. It works quite well when applied as directed.
I apply a water proofing liquid to my soft top and helm cover. I now use StarBrite and it is less expensive than other treatments. It holds up a long time.
Make sure you open and close the sea cocks every now and then to keep them from freezing up. I do not turn mine off when docked although Grady recommends that you do so. They are a pain to get to and operate unless you have the extension rods.
Flush your motor after every outing. EVERY one.
If you have the live well option, run it every now and then even if you don't need to use it. Note that both mid lockers will stay damp so don't store anything that doesn't like water
Motor trim makes a big difference on bow steer which can be fairly pronounced on 208s. You will learn over time what trim works best. Trim tabs will make a lot of difference also.
Good luck. Safe boating
Check the snaps on your jump-seat cushions from time to time or you will lose them. Check the screws in the top-center of your windshield for tightness. If one of them comes loose your winshield will seperate and it's not easy to get back together. Ater this happened to me I put 3m 4002 adhesive on them.
Great boat, Enjoy! 8)
Great boat, Enjoy! 8)
Thanks Seasick, Joe, Cat and all....all very good advice....no trim tabs on mine....maybe I should think about a pair of Lenco's....going to fish her for the first time on Monday....hope to have a lot of photos.
I would get some helm time on that boat before you spend money on trim tabs...they are a nice accessory sure but you may find you dont need them....I run my 96 208 with a 200 Merc optimax and no tabs....getting used to throttle and trim took a few trips and I decided i could do without the tabs and invest the money elsewhere in the boat, I fish the Delaware Bay and 208's (and a lotta other Grady's) are acommonplace.....there is a reason for that...The Bay can get nasty and there were alotta days i was glad i got the Grady LOL....Great boat hope you enjoy it
Trim Tabs, I had a 208, F200, bimini. Trim tabs are a must. Mine porpoised badly if I didn't add a little tab. Now I have a 208, Z200 hpdi, Hardtop, don't need them as much but I sure wouldn't want to be without them.