lead or zinc balls in hull help

Bob, not sure why mine has a cut out on the inner skin of the full transom. Maybe the inner skin of the transom is actually the liner that was notched out to allow the outer skin/wood of the transom to come together.....its factory, but doesn't look like a wet on wet schedule, and there definitely was no router involved here...I'd have to get a picture to explain exactly as describing it doesn't do it justice.
 
BobP said:
Richie, bracket boat transoms were not cut, why would they be
Click to expand...

Your point makes sense but is hard to disagree with Richie when he owns one with a cut transom. Who knows why they did that. Like the ballast I guess it made sense to someone back then.
 
Whitey, you had wet feet on a Trophy Pro? I've gotten spray but if you're taking water over the bow often, either you're going too fast or out when you shouldn't be. I'd bet you got a survey on the next you pruchased.

Grady made some STUPID moves and had some current head scratchers too but they do make a decent product. Makos have similar problems and they also have a good size following, as well as the old Aquasports.
 
When I say router cut, I'm saying the same way they cut the top of stringers and bulkheads, no way the glass could end so evenly by a layup. I've never been to the factory to see this, but layed plenty of glass. I have to grind it down to get the glass flat even with wood edge at top.
 
Richie R, is there a chance the boat was modified by a previous owner? If you give the serial # to GW they should be able to trace it. Unless someone screwed up at the factory, I can't see them making more work for themselves on purpose.
 
nah, its a factory 252G...all original from the woven roving glass to the wooden transom knees and stringers.....they've got my hull number on file as I've spoken to them over the years for various reasons regarding the boat....they never came back with "hey, your hull VIN and description don't match, soooo.........you don't realize this stuff until you have issues and tear it open as I am doing now with stringers...losing my whole season thus far......anyway, it may be as Bob mentioned, the liner not the transom thats cut up to fit the cross member....Boat builders use different methods when putting together the pieces...some use 2 layers, some use 3 (hull, deck, liner etc).....some incorporate the transom in the original layup, and some leave the transom out until its connected at a second step...no biggie, they both work fine, its just the level of "craftsmanship" when doing this that came into question during my adventure. I'm sure newer models and techniques eliminate this type of work, but sometimes you don't know whats in the shiney red apple until you bite into it!!
 
Richie, I don't understand exactly what you have.

The gas tank opening in the liner/deck deck is a cut out on mine, could be with a sawsall, but the liner mold is best made that way, full solid so you get the dimensioanlity, nothing wrong with using a cut.

The cut could have been fairer to the eye, but other than visual underdeck, no adverse effect.

The same applies to the rise of the liner at the stern, it was cut.
The cuts have to made a bit different I bet for different models.

I thought you have a cut transom that was recreated full height (?)

The stringer grid is cut also, by different model of same hull Mine was cut different than for the Trophy Pro, but I bet layed up originally one way.

These are manufacturing economics when yu have many models on same hull mold, no longer the case stating in 1994 one model only, I fail to mention the single I/O diesel since few were sold this way.
 
Bob, the area in question is the top quarter of the inside portion of the full transom......I'll try and post a pic after working on it this weekend.....its no big deal....its solid.....I would have taken a little more pride in my work when it was assembled.
 
Interesting.

You see inner glass skin don't you?

Is the skin painted/gelled white?

Is there an overlap in the glass at that point? What makes you believe it's not the same core ? Can you see transom core ?
 
I've been under there on mine, mounted equipment up there, just don't see it .

The outer skin would have to have been cut and restored too, does it look like it was cut on the outer skin ?
 
Guess we should all be realizing that G-Ws really aren't good boats. My assessment is they are "fair": not poor, not very poor, not good, not very good, not excellent. Just fair. Sinful hull-deck joints, lots of bad glass work, poor electrical systems. Foam is a fraud--most of it is loose, floating in the bilge. Flimsy hull sides. Serious areas that can flood.

Good hull design. Good gelcoat work. Decent hardware.

Loose ballast is a crime. Any worthwhile sailboat uses solid 1 piece ballast. In general the worst sailboat manufacturer would be middle of the road for powerboats. The average sailboat manufacturer is head and shoulders above nearly any powerboat mfgr. for quality. Clearly powerboat buyers don't demand quality and or don't know what quality is--until later when the problems arise. Like loose ballast!
 
I'm sucking up shot like there's no tomorrow..
Now motors are in water at dock.Bracket is full of water
And once again missing spring striper.
Very disappointed.
Did find out that they used tinned wire on the Positive reds
wiring and untined on the neg of my 89 trophy pro.
Great way to save a couple of bucks .
Its always a ground problem....at least I have a starting point.
 
The idea of intentional ballast seems odd in a GW. Could they perhaps be diver's weights? Many divers use the "soft" weight bags filled with small balls instead of the hard lead weights.
 
It would be interesting and meaningful to know the year models of those boats that have experienced quality issues. Is there a pattern here? Are some year models more prone to have had quality issues? Are newer models experiencing quality issues? Those of you who have had issues with your boats, please tell us the year models.
 
I had a friend working at a boat dealer and they delivered a 27 foot center console brand new to a customer and the boat would list to one side. no leaks and no idea why. the dealer looked at it and couldn't figure it out then factory came out and looked the boat over numerous times. The factory fix was to bolt lead blocks on the high side. several hundred pounds of It to "correct" the problem. Can u say lemon law?? so I guess apparently this is how some manufacturers fix problems Not sure the make of the boat but it wasn't a Grady.
 
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