Does anyone know where to find by or make the rear hatch covers for the fish box and live well mine are pretty ratty looking and would like to replace them this season. I would buy them direct from Grady White however I am not sure if the paint will match my Faded1995 hull
Live well and fish box hatch covers replacement?
- Thread starter cobrapowersys
- Start date
Hi cobrapowersys - I'm in the process of doing the same.
current part numbers for complete new lids are:
Aft Livewell Lid: 04-403
Port fishbox lid: 07-272
Stbd fishbox lid: 07-273
Transom door: 04-398
Pulpit: LP04-402
Call around to a bunch of Grady dealers to get the best price.
If you are going to fix your own (chip away all the loose stuff, attach a form (soft plastic strip) and build back up with west system + 404 high density filler), Spectrum makes a gel coat colored for our 1995 boats, I bought some and am going to try it out, I'll let you know how it works out.
current part numbers for complete new lids are:
Aft Livewell Lid: 04-403
Port fishbox lid: 07-272
Stbd fishbox lid: 07-273
Transom door: 04-398
Pulpit: LP04-402
Call around to a bunch of Grady dealers to get the best price.
If you are going to fix your own (chip away all the loose stuff, attach a form (soft plastic strip) and build back up with west system + 404 high density filler), Spectrum makes a gel coat colored for our 1995 boats, I bought some and am going to try it out, I'll let you know how it works out.
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Well I called GW at $500 each it looks like I have a project on my hands. Did you dry your lids out before you it started? I so how???
I have fixed several of them. Previously I just used the polyester laminating resin and it did not hold up well. I have since used the epoxy and time will tell.
Yes you must dry out the wooden core. It really looks like masonite and when wet turns to mush. You will likely need to remove the underneath layer of gelcoat and resin and remove/scrape out the mush and reinstall some type of structural material. I used a dremmel to cut a square out from the underside then srape out the crap. I used a masonite material again and made sure to seal it well particularly around the hinge screws. It seems that there was insufficient gelcoat around the bottom edges and moisture wicks up into the core and causes delamination. (much more sever in northern climes with freezing temps). Same issues around the hardtop edges. I am hoping the epoxy is less prone to moisture absorbtion. I also built up an inner radius using layers of cloth and resin to increase the strength for the panel. My edges are now about 1/4 inch thick. On the starboard fish box lid I added another 1/2" of plywood as well to increase strength. I think that flexing when sitting or stepping can cause radius cracks which allows moisture to be drawn up into the core. A dremmel or small angle grinder/sander would be a big help here. (Harbor freight about $15)
As far as the gelcoat color, I was not successful with the Spectrum color match and have since been mixing my own tint. I start with white base and add a tiny bit of red, yellow and black tints. Check out the Jamestown Distributors website for some good how to videos. Structural repair and gelcoating.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... Additives+
Get some prices from some boat repair facilities to rebuild them. Mine quoted like $200 each which was still too much. I didn't spend that to repair 2 hatches. Another option would be to repair the structural yourself and have them shoot it with gelcoat.
Good luck and ask questions.
Yes you must dry out the wooden core. It really looks like masonite and when wet turns to mush. You will likely need to remove the underneath layer of gelcoat and resin and remove/scrape out the mush and reinstall some type of structural material. I used a dremmel to cut a square out from the underside then srape out the crap. I used a masonite material again and made sure to seal it well particularly around the hinge screws. It seems that there was insufficient gelcoat around the bottom edges and moisture wicks up into the core and causes delamination. (much more sever in northern climes with freezing temps). Same issues around the hardtop edges. I am hoping the epoxy is less prone to moisture absorbtion. I also built up an inner radius using layers of cloth and resin to increase the strength for the panel. My edges are now about 1/4 inch thick. On the starboard fish box lid I added another 1/2" of plywood as well to increase strength. I think that flexing when sitting or stepping can cause radius cracks which allows moisture to be drawn up into the core. A dremmel or small angle grinder/sander would be a big help here. (Harbor freight about $15)
As far as the gelcoat color, I was not successful with the Spectrum color match and have since been mixing my own tint. I start with white base and add a tiny bit of red, yellow and black tints. Check out the Jamestown Distributors website for some good how to videos. Structural repair and gelcoating.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/us ... Additives+
Get some prices from some boat repair facilities to rebuild them. Mine quoted like $200 each which was still too much. I didn't spend that to repair 2 hatches. Another option would be to repair the structural yourself and have them shoot it with gelcoat.
Good luck and ask questions.
I attempted to repair mine also, but due to the "masonite" material, and my lack of experience refinishing...they came out solid, but not "smooth"....so i think Im looking to buy new lids/covers. Is Grady the only place to get replacement lids,?
Hookup1
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Polyester resins are used in the gelcoat and in the fiberglass layups. Polyester does absorb moisture. Also it is a poor choice for repair work (new doesn't stick well to old cured product). Use epoxy materials for repairs.
I have never sprayed gelcote. I use Petit, Imron or automotive polyurethane for primer and top coat.
I'm repairing my deck hatch now but there is no finish work - all structural, rotted plywood. I'm using Coosa Bluewater 26 instead of 1/2" plywood but its $325 for a 4x8x1/2" sheet.
I have never sprayed gelcote. I use Petit, Imron or automotive polyurethane for primer and top coat.
I'm repairing my deck hatch now but there is no finish work - all structural, rotted plywood. I'm using Coosa Bluewater 26 instead of 1/2" plywood but its $325 for a 4x8x1/2" sheet.
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Body shop that deals with fiberglass had mine done years ago still look good price was very fair .Can't hurt to ask !