Can anyone help me troubleshoot why my well won't fill? When the drain plug is installed, it will seemingly randomly fill. Where is the circuit breaker located I read about in the manual? Any ideas are appreciated.
Live well won't work, 2002 GW Tournament 192
- Thread starter pdigel
- Start date
There should be a switch at the helm for livewell. Look for it and turn it on. You should be able o hear the pump running. If you don't hear it, you have to find it and diagnose.
The input water for the livewell is through a thru-hull pickup with a seacock in the bilge. It will be aft probably close to the transom.
If the pump runs but no water enters the livewell, the seacock may be closed but if water starts to fill the livewell when you are at speed as mentioned, the seacock is not closed.
First things first, check if the pump runs when turned on. We will go from there.
The input water for the livewell is through a thru-hull pickup with a seacock in the bilge. It will be aft probably close to the transom.
If the pump runs but no water enters the livewell, the seacock may be closed but if water starts to fill the livewell when you are at speed as mentioned, the seacock is not closed.
First things first, check if the pump runs when turned on. We will go from there.
The live well rocker switch does not activate the pump. I can see the pump through the inspection port and it is not running. I found the fuse panel in the storage in front of the steering wheel but can not find the breaker switch the manual says is in the port aft area of the boat to see if it is tripped. I am still looking but it shouldn’t be this hard to find if it indeed has one. Thanks for the help and continued guidance.
The breaker that is mentioned is the accessory feed breaker and may be a smallish box with a red reset button on the front. If it is tripped or bad, none of your accessories would work, like horn, lights, VHF etc and I think you would have noticed that. So the main breaker is probably not the issue.
The switch at the helm may have a breaker. That would be the little buttons usually mounted in line with the switch. I can't be sure without seeing the dash panel.
The more likely issue is a bad pump or bad wiring. First step is to see if there is 12 volts at the pump feed (probably hard to access
) and then check the ground connections at the pump.
The switch at the helm may have a breaker. That would be the little buttons usually mounted in line with the switch. I can't be sure without seeing the dash panel.
The more likely issue is a bad pump or bad wiring. First step is to see if there is 12 volts at the pump feed (probably hard to access
) and then check the ground connections at the pump.I just looked at a photo of the 192 dash and the breakers are mounted to the right of each rocker switch .l
The switch breaker doesn’t seem the issue. I’ll find my tester and see if there is power to the pump.
You won’t have power to the pump, unless you have power into an out of the switch, which is probably an easier starting point than the pump wiring in the bilge.
Especially if you are working through an inspection port.
Especially if you are working through an inspection port.
One mod I do to my boats is to use waterproof(?) male/female connectors on bilge devices that need to be changed, That makes it easier next time to test for continuity as well as be able to remove things like pumps without cutting wires. If a pump tests bad, I either reuse the old connector with butt connectors or use a new waterproof connector. Adding a connector helps a lot in situations where the feed wires have little to no spare length.
I use various combination of 2/3 and 4 wire types similar to this Amazon item
I use various combination of 2/3 and 4 wire types similar to this Amazon item