have a 94 226: wires to the aft bilge and shurflo are burned out. I noticed it when I went to replace the bilge and the shurflo. I stripped back the wiring jackets and the copper was black and corroded - I tested the voltage after flipping on the switches to the wires and only got 2-3 volts, so appears to me that I may have to pull new wires to the back from the power panel. So looking for advice lessons learned or a book - I'm a Do it yourselfer. I was having trouble finding the fuses for them, this may be the reason why the wires burned up. My fuses in the cabin are the old glass tube types - hope to upgrade in the future and re-wire the whole boat (elctronics and ancillary items only) not the motor.
looking for the a dummies guide to wiring
- Thread starter Zebco33
- Start date
Check out the 12-Volt Bible for Boats. You can find it online, or at some boat stores. It's a quick read, and should give you a good start on doing some rewiring. It's what I used, and I'm a complete idiot around things electrical.
I'm in the same situation as you - only 2 weeks ahead. I bought "Powerboater's Guide to Electrical Systems" by Ed Sherman - Helpful. Turns out it's not that difficult if you follow the guidance in the book, and on this forum. I started with the intent of just adding some LED lights and ended up checking/re-wiring pretty much everything, replacing the fuse panel, adding bus bars to consolidate negatives, fwd and aft, re-doing the 2nd battery layout, etc. I'm the 3rd owner so lot's of "quick fixes" by the others in my boat.
Not sure if you're talking about the livewell/washdown pump or not. I'm replacing that expensive little unit this weekend. The fuses for the aft bilge pump / switch in my boat are in the stbd battery box - look to be OEM and do show up on the GW wiring diagram.
Not sure if you're talking about the livewell/washdown pump or not. I'm replacing that expensive little unit this weekend. The fuses for the aft bilge pump / switch in my boat are in the stbd battery box - look to be OEM and do show up on the GW wiring diagram.
Zebco33 , I would first make sure that you have the correct line voltage at your bilge switch(Incoming power 12-13vlts.)If your line voltage is correct i would then check for any bad connections on the load side(pump) side. Remove the connectors from the rear of switch and clean with an electrical contact cleaner/degreaser and make sure you have outgoing power at the switch if so then reconnect the pump lead(@ switch)then check for correct voltage @ pump location if you get your 12Vlts. your ok if not then it may be a bad conductor ( From switch to pump ). If you still cant get it drop me a pm here I'm also in chucktown ( John's Island) an Happen to be in the electrical field
plymouthgrady
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wiring
Zebco, make sure you have the right amp. barrel fuse for your application. Thats as simple as going to a marine retailer, finding your pump and check the instructions. You can probably find it on line also.
What happens is if you are under amped you will blow fuses prematurely and if you over amp, it won't pop potentially causing a meltdown. The fuses are located behind the mirror in the cuddy. If you had a blown fuse, the pump would not work and you would get a 0 amp reading. When you change your wire & fuses
1) go to a marine store and get marine grade tinned copper wire.
2)make sure that when you pull out the old wire, tape the new wire to it to pull it through- snaking wire SUCKS.
3)when you get butt connectors and terminal rings, pay the extra money and get the heat shrinked ones.
4)if your not going to heat shrink the butts and rings, don't waste your time replacing the wire-you'll be doing it again next year.
Get back to me if you need more assistance "plymouth grady" 228G
Zebco, make sure you have the right amp. barrel fuse for your application. Thats as simple as going to a marine retailer, finding your pump and check the instructions. You can probably find it on line also.
What happens is if you are under amped you will blow fuses prematurely and if you over amp, it won't pop potentially causing a meltdown. The fuses are located behind the mirror in the cuddy. If you had a blown fuse, the pump would not work and you would get a 0 amp reading. When you change your wire & fuses
1) go to a marine store and get marine grade tinned copper wire.
2)make sure that when you pull out the old wire, tape the new wire to it to pull it through- snaking wire SUCKS.
3)when you get butt connectors and terminal rings, pay the extra money and get the heat shrinked ones.
4)if your not going to heat shrink the butts and rings, don't waste your time replacing the wire-you'll be doing it again next year.
Get back to me if you need more assistance "plymouth grady" 228G
I sort of agree with plymouth. I try and avoid butt splices at all costs, If I do need one (bilge pumps) I spring for the heat shrink. As far the the shrink ends, Spend the money on the tinned wire so you can use a standard tinned connector, You'll never have problem. The prices on tinned (marine) connectors is outrageous at boat places. If you are doing any sort of large rewire you are better served going to a Grainger, Fastenal, Graybar and getting high quality tinned connectors. Don't use the cheap-o auto store version, they are junk. I keep a large variety on the boat I use only ring lugs, which means you need differing hole size and wire sizes. A complete set would be red, blue, yellow and #8 and #10 stud.
http://www.idealindustries.com/products ... ulated.jsp
These are less than 1/2 price of Westmarine.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... ?sku=60041
Also spring for a good electrical corrosion blocking compound at terminal points and bulbs. I'm in the electric utility business and this is what I prefer.
http://www.sanchem.com/aSpecialE.html
http://www.idealindustries.com/products ... ulated.jsp
These are less than 1/2 price of Westmarine.
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/de ... ?sku=60041
Also spring for a good electrical corrosion blocking compound at terminal points and bulbs. I'm in the electric utility business and this is what I prefer.
http://www.sanchem.com/aSpecialE.html