M y Wedge Transom Saver's?

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gradywhite248

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What kind of transom savers are you guys using? With the Grady 248 you have a step hull and the trailer is at least 5 feet from the engine, Does this M y Wedge work? Looks like it only takes the load off the tilt trim system? same load on the transom?
http://www.m-ywedge.com/
 
I used one for about 10 years on two different boats. Worked just fine, but don't over-compress it. And make sure which side your trim sender is on (if you have one) ... :wink:
 
Curmudgeon said:
I used one for about 10 years on two different boats. Worked just fine, but don't over-compress it. And make sure which side your trim sender is on (if you have one) ... :wink:
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Thanks good advice on the trim sender.. If it can be done wrong you can bet i might do it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
I have used the MyWedge on my rig for 3 seasons now. I love it and have no complaints. It is so simple to use. I have a 200 hp Evinrude Ocean Pro on the back of a 192 Tournament. No indication of stress from using the Wedge. I don't think I would use anything else at this point. When I bought the boat 3 years ago, I showed up at the dealer with the Wedge. The dealer's response was I love these things. Not to say a dealer knows everything, but at least the response wasn't "dude, you are crazy."
 
When I purchased my Grady new in 2006 no one said anything about using a transom saver. Later I was reading an article about using savers. I called Yamaha and they said definitely use savers on motors over 150 H.P. because of the weight. Yamaha sells their brand and so does Bass Pro. After looking at them I went to Lowes and purchased 2 PVC schedule 80 3/4 inch electrical nipples threaded and couplings, cut them to fit and have used them ever since. Works perfect ! Now my 225 F.S. has support when transporting on the trailer.
 
I don't have any experience with that particular item, but in the sterndrive world we use something very similar. I'm new to the large OB world and my boat doesn't get trailered anymore than about 3 miles, twice a year (other than the trip from PA to ME). But I used the built-in, metal, lever support. Is that not good to use?
 
Read your manual for your motor, I know on my F250TXR it specifically says not to use the built in support as it's not strong enough for trailering. These motors are exceptionally heavy and is why I do use the my wedge device. I also use the steering lock supports as well.
 
GulfSea said:
Read your manual for your motor, I know on my F250TXR it specifically says not to use the built in support as it's not strong enough for trailering. These motors are exceptionally heavy and is why I do use the my wedge device. I also use the steering lock supports as well.
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I looked through my manual and found the section about that. It does mention to not trailer it on the tilt support lever, but in reference to it possibly wiggling off (which won't, realistically, happen if it's snugged down onto it). It does not mention anything about weight on the transom being the problem. Regardless, I see your point. At this point, the boat is only being trailered limited miles so I'm not too worried. But if I take it a longer distance, I'm going to support it better. Thanks.
 
went a head a ordered one on Amazon, I don't tow more than twice a year but each way is 150 miles.....
 
The problem with trailering with a heavy Yamaha engine using the tilt support is not that the engine will slip off. I have seen several engines where the tilt support actually broke. It simply isn't designed to support the engine's weight except when static. So you can leave the engine tilted up with the support in place in a slip or lift without a problem. But bouncing down a rough road can cause the single Yamaha support to break. Some other engine brands use double supports that are designed for trailering.

I had really good luck with the My-Wedge when I lived out west and trailered an aluminum boat with a bracketed Honda engine over 7,000 miles per year. Washboard desert roads and gravel logging trail in the northwest were not a problem. While I no longer have that boat, it is still getting towed around with the wedge after 15 years.
 
That definitely looks like a nice product. It's pretty much the same thing/idea as what I use with stern drives. For stern drives, there are two pieces that snap over the extended trim/tilt rams. In fact, I probably have some extras lying around....
 
i bought one online and shipped it to the seller when i bought my 223. he fitted it on the evinrude 200.

the boat was then towed by a utow driver from south carolina to british columbia. there was no damage at the end.

the only thing i am suspicious of is that the motor is still free to pivot up an down when it hits a bump so the wedge acts like a bump stop on a coil sprung truck without the benefit of a shock absorber to control travel. i think ideally you also want a bungee strung between the tow eyes to prevent the engine from flying too high.
 
not sure. if you hit a log, the leg lifts. whether a hard bounce on the trailer can also lift the leg i am not sure but i would think it's not a good thing to try repeatedly.
 
You're right - the engine will be forced up due to an impact. Most manufacturer's have this type of design in their hydraulic rams for just that purpose. Whether a bump will cause the engine to lift, or not, I do not know for sure. If there were no hydraulics - sure - I can definitely see that happening. But with the hydraulics pulling the engine down under a lot of pressure, I "think" there will be no 'lift-off'. If there is, it is probably imperceivable. However, it can't hurt to tie it down, either. If you do that, though, a bungee isn't going to offer any help. Even tieing a rope won't help much. To do it right, you would want to use a ratchet strap.

A good way to get a better feeling on this would be to simply try and lift up on the engine while it's on the Wedge. This obviously isn't a definitive test as we (well, at least me!) can't supply the same amount of force that a bump on the road can. But if you can lift it, then a bump certainly can. I suspect (and this is just a guess), that quickly lifting up on the engine is simply going to lift the whole boat.

I believe this is why the manufacturers recommend (for those that have a strong enough trailering bracket) to not just rest the engine on the bracket, but to actually snug the engine down onto the bracket with the hydraulics - to keep it firmly planted due to the immense pressure that the hydraulics can provide.
 
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