Hello all. I'm looking for some advice on this. The guy I bought the boat from told me the pump would blow the fuse when he tried to use it. It looks like the original groco pump and I think it's probably rusted up from sitting for some time. I haven't taken it out yet. I believe I read a post some time ago about someone switching to a different pump set up instead of repairing the existing pump. Would this be a better way to go or should I stay with the factory set up?
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Macerater pump on 265 express
- Thread starter Bonnie Blue
- Start date
Max 366-thanks for the info. Your picture and explanation was excellent. It looks like I can get everything I need from my new Defender catalog.
Enough Already
Well-Known Member
100% agreed on the re-engineer. For many years, trying to stay "stock", I jacked around with Groco, 2 repairs, 2 new overpriced pumps until I reached my limit with frozen pumps, blown fuses, etc. I ended up using the existing tank and engineered an external Jabsco pump, easily replaced if necessary someday. Wish I had gone that route years ago - completely worth it to fire Groco. Concept of a pump sitting in the sewer and expecting it to work consistently just makes no sense.
Another Distraction
Well-Known Member
I've read a 100 of these posts about groco pumps and I'm not sure what people are thinking. The groco tank pump is first class from top to bottom. I can't see how you went through 2 new pumps, I believe you but how did that happen? What failed that caused the entire pumps to be thrown out?
The motor is huge and powerful located inside of a thick Goodyear like rubber tube that must be 0.250" thick. The pump body is bronze and the shaft is SS with real bearings. It runs so smooth and quiet you don't hear it when you're running it on a bench. Again, It's a first class pump that even includes a bonding wire for stray current and a SS chopping knife at the pump's entrance.
You get what you pay for and as a Mechanical Engineer I was impressed with this pump.
The motor is huge and powerful located inside of a thick Goodyear like rubber tube that must be 0.250" thick. The pump body is bronze and the shaft is SS with real bearings. It runs so smooth and quiet you don't hear it when you're running it on a bench. Again, It's a first class pump that even includes a bonding wire for stray current and a SS chopping knife at the pump's entrance.
You get what you pay for and as a Mechanical Engineer I was impressed with this pump.
Enough Already
Well-Known Member
I'm not normally a basher - check all my posts on multiple forums - but I can show you the receipts on this one. My boat is a 2001 and the first freeze-up was in 2006, talked to Depco and they said it was shot - shaft was frozen. $398 + tax and shipping for a new one. 2 years later, frozen again blowing fuses. I took it out and put a wrench to the shaft nut and worked it loose. Ran for another year or so and froze up again. Sent off to Gross Mechanical labs and they fixed it for $211. Froze up again late last year, blowing fuses, Gross says needs new one - finally drove me to re-engineer the whole thing. Crazy thing was it never had any solids in there - liquids only! If it wasn't for a difficult fuse location, 12 nuts, 12 lock washers, 12 flat washers, 2 hoses and 2 wires and challenging access down in an awkward hole, maybe it would be a different story. $170 for a self-priming, stainless cutter, run-dry protection Jabsco pump, a few pieces of PVC from Home Depot a short length of marine sanitation hose gets me an external pump, direct access to the pump nut if it freezes and easy access for pump replacement if necessary. Sure beats future repairs on a sewage-soaked piece of equipment. Oh yeah, the $170 includes a Plus Plan extended 2-year warranty. To add further insult, one of the Groco tank level monitor floats were rotted and broken off and floating in the tank last time I opened it up - so my level monitor doesn't work. $296 for a replacement level monitor?? - yikes. I know 2001 is an old boat but the Groco solution just did not work well for me. In addition, I was told you had to "exercise" the pump often, so every month or so I would flush fresh water through the system just to keep things working - to no avail. Sorry, that's my story - just the facts. I really tried to make the Groco solution work.
Another Distraction
Well-Known Member
Ok, understand. Someone else said it was shot and sold you a new one.
Where was your difficult fuse location? Isn't the pump's fuse on the cabin wall?
12 nuts.... what's held in with 12 nuts? Not the pump to the holding tank, right? Those are 3-5 screws, the nuts are molded into the tank. Pems I bet.
What's down in a hole? The pump hangs into the tank but you don't have to reach into any hole to lift the pump assembly out.
Anyhow, I'm glad it works and I hear you about only liquids!!!!!!!! PU.
Where was your difficult fuse location? Isn't the pump's fuse on the cabin wall?
12 nuts.... what's held in with 12 nuts? Not the pump to the holding tank, right? Those are 3-5 screws, the nuts are molded into the tank. Pems I bet.
What's down in a hole? The pump hangs into the tank but you don't have to reach into any hole to lift the pump assembly out.
Anyhow, I'm glad it works and I hear you about only liquids!!!!!!!! PU.
Enough Already
Well-Known Member
Fuse location on the 265 is in the cabin, through a small access plate and "replace by feel" mode. Do-able once you figure out the right fuse and push other wires out of the way but not super user-friendly. The pump assembly is held down by 12 nuts/washers that attach to screws molded in to the tank, including a rubber gasket. On the 265, you need to reach into a storage area, open up a deck plate on the bottom and reach further on down to the tank/pump assembly which is offset from the access plate hole - meaning more "unscrew by feel", risk of dropped wrenches, washers, etc. Headline is we can debate boat design, vs. pump access vs. pump dependability but the sum of it all = too much of a pita for me and I have a much simpler solution now.
I agree with "Enough" about the access, which, along with the replacement costs, are the key reasons that I switched it out. WRT to the design of the pump, while it might be a good design, the conditions are horrible- submerged in salt water with a low pH for years both inside and out. Yuk. As pointed out, it's made of bronze and SS, which sets up a great enviro for dissimilar metal corrosion; I suspect this is why it seizes up. Also, the seals aren't going to last forever and once a drop gets into the motor or bearings, they'll be toast. Nice concept, but inevitable that it will fail.
Another Distraction
Well-Known Member
That sounds like a Grady 265 issue, wow that sucks. The marlin is so EZ it's a dream. Fuse on the wall and pump and tank is 100% wide open under the aft cabin's 3' x 4' hatch. Even the wiring and hoses are EZ to work with. Love it.
The pump assembly cost a lot because it's a quality product.
Your $125 plastic pump is most likely NOT mounted half way up a cabin wall so it could be full of water all the time too.
It comes down to $. If you don't want to spend it, don't blame the pump. This forum had me thinking the pump is horrible quality and when you take one apart that's not the truth. If one part fails you just replace that one part.
Anyhow, over and out on this subject. I don't work for Groco so I'm off my soap box and off to work.
The pump assembly cost a lot because it's a quality product.
Your $125 plastic pump is most likely NOT mounted half way up a cabin wall so it could be full of water all the time too.
It comes down to $. If you don't want to spend it, don't blame the pump. This forum had me thinking the pump is horrible quality and when you take one apart that's not the truth. If one part fails you just replace that one part.
Anyhow, over and out on this subject. I don't work for Groco so I'm off my soap box and off to work.