Marlin Bilge float switch

[fishie1]

I need to rewire the forward float switch in my 2002 Marlin. The existing wiring literally disintegrated so I can't use it to pull a new wire back to the thermal breakers at the battery switch. I tried fishing a tape back but it always gets blocked. Has someone done this or is there a trick or alternative that makes this a bit easier?

I have sent messages to Grady and waiting on their response as well.

Thanks in advance, and stay safe.

 

[seasick]

I am not clear on what disintegrated. There are two power feeds(manual and auto) to the pump as well as a ground wire but the "float switch" wiring is all local to the bilge-pump area.
With respect to pulling wire, you have to find an end of the rigging tube. You may see it from the aft or at the helm . At the helm is is possible that you will have to remove some sort of panel or access plate or even a built-in like a shelf unit. I am not familiar with the routing on that hull.
Once you locate one end of the rigging tube, it should be easy to run a fish tape. There should be room in the tube.
Hopefully your disintegrated cables are not burnt. In that case you might have a real serious issue.

 

[fishie1]

I was under the belief that the auto ran a wire from the float switch to the battery switch panel.

I found the rigging tube but there doesn't seem to be a path to move aft. There is very little room at the entrance to the tube that is very difficult to even get the fish tape in.

 

[Fishtales]

Usually the tubes are fairly large. I was able to run wires for a high water alarm without a problem. On some models there are more than one. I'd ask GW if they can send you a drawing. The owners manual usually has one that shows the tubes.

 

[Fishtales]

I guess it could run to the unswitched side of the battery switch it it makes it easier. On my boat if you can get to the switch, you can get to the batteries just as easy. I'd want it hardwired directly to the battery with fuse.

 

[fishie1]

And as to the wire disintegrating, the copper was almost "liquid" and the wire fell apart as I moved it to move backward to find actual wire. The end was lost into the rigging.

 

[seasick]

I was under the belief that the auto ran a wire from the float switch to the battery switch panel.

I found the rigging tube but there doesn't seem to be a path to move aft. There is very little room at the entrance to the tube that is very difficult to even get the fish tape in.

You are correct. That is what I kind of said in my post that there are two feeds and a ground. One feed comes from the battery directly or from the UNSWITCHED side of a battery switch. That is the feed for the auto feature with the float switch. This feed is live regardless of the battery switch setting.
The second feed is powered by the accessory buss and a dash switch. That is the manual mode feed.

 

[fishie1]

You are correct. That is what I kind of said in my post that there are two feeds and a ground. One feed comes from the battery directly or from the UNSWITCHED side of a battery switch. That is the feed for the auto feature with the float switch. This feed is live regardless of the battery switch setting.
The second feed is powered by the accessory buss and a dash switch. That is the manual mode feed.

I think we are on the same page. It is the feed from the unswitched side that I need to replace and having a difficult time fishing a tape from the float switch aft. The tape seems to take a turn upward and never seems to make it aft. If I start in the rear bilge I can fish it forward but because of how crowded that chase is at the forward bilge I don't ever see or feel the tape. The same chase has the hoses from the bilge and shower sump.

 

[seasick]

The rigging tube should be one intact run of pvc pipe . I suppose it is possible that it is full but I haven't seen that especially just to pull a fish tape. If you fish tape is metal, unreel enough to get from one end to the other and unbend any bends in the tape. Try starting the tape in various places in the bundle.
Were you able to see both ends of the rigging tube. It would be about 3 inches in diameter I think.

 

[fishie1]

I'm just getting back to this.

I cannot locate any PVC tube in any area. Under the port side berth hatch I can see hoses and wires run through an opening in the bulkhead but there does not appear to be any actual tube or pipe. A metal fishtape will not follow the same path as it meets resistance a little more than a foot in.

I tried starting in the stern and located what I believe is the same path but again there does not appear to be a tube that would guide the tape to that forward compartment. I can push the tape through that opening but it just coils up somewhere under the deck in the cockpit.

So, I "think" I have located the two ends of the rigging tube but I'm not sure it actually is a physical tube, but assuming it is, there really isn't any room in it to fish a tape forward.

I emailed Grady and they stated to follow the rigging tube etc. and if I can't do it then hire someone else to do it for me.

I cannot believe how much time I've spent on something that seems straightforward and I'm sure I'm not doing something correctly but I'm running out of ideas and getting frustrated. Am I starting in the right place, under the port berth cushion? Any other thoughts or ideas?

 

[seasick]

You probably couldn't use the old wire to pull a new one since I am pretty sure the original group of wires is bundled together with tape or ties.
Follow you motor control cables and they will lead you to the opening in the rigging tube which may be a 3 inch or so pipe. Try snaking that. If not, find the other end of the rigging tube. You may need to remove panels or possibly a built-in storage shelf/drawer/etc to get to the opening. Try snaking from that end. One way or the other you will get a snake through. After the snake, pull a drag rope along with the new wires. There may be a tube from aft to the helm area and either an open path or a cross tube to get to the mid bilge area.
It is very possible that you can't easily see the opening of the rigging tube aft by looking in the bilge. Try a mirror or try holding your phone in the bilge towards the side and aiming forward (or aft is looking from the helm end) and take pictures, The tube is there somewhere. As I mentioned, the motor control cables feed into it.
If your snake has a straight cut end, it may not pass the plumbing and wiring without getting stuck. heat the tape end and put a loop in it.
Also tray feeding the snake into different areas of the tube, like up top, instead of on the bottom.

Many folks have better results using the newer fiberglass electrician tapes which are plastic rods that can be connected to each other to make a longer snake. The advantage is that they can flex but also will run straight in a straight pipe unlike the metal tapes that tend to take to curl
Here is an example

Boeray 11' Fiberglass Running Electrical Wire Cable Pulling Fish Tape Kit with 5 Different Attachments and Fish Tape Tool in a Carrying Case - - Amazon.com

Boeray 11' Fiberglass Running Electrical Wire Cable Pulling Fish Tape Kit with 5 Different Attachments and Fish Tape Tool in a Carrying Case - - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com