Marlin Trailer

[boatino]

Does anyone here have any recommendations for a Grady White Marlin Trailer? I was thinking aluminum, tri axle, 10,000# plus capacity. Does anyone have a trailer they currently use that they really like? I'll probably use it more for storage than anything else.

Thanks,

John

 

[Tuna Man]

I do not have a trailer for my Marlin but I think you may want to consider something that handles more like 14,000 or 15,000 lbs. I estimate my boat weights at least 12,000 with a load, maybe as much as 14,000 loaded to the gills.

 

[boatino]

Scott,

Just wondering how you are calculating your numbers. These are my calculations: Boat 7000#, Engines 1100#, Full Gas 2000#, Water 250#, Gear 500#, total approx. 10,850#. I'm not sure if Grady figures the Hardtop in the dry weight or not. I wasn't going to be full on fuel for storage due to the ethanol issue. And I know the f250's weigh more than the Saltwater Series 2 strokes on my boat. Let me know your thoughts.

Thanks,

John.

 

[OdessaTim]

I would opt for a triple axle 15,000 pound aluminum float on trailer with disc brakes. Why push the envelope?

 

[Motivator]

I realize it is not a Marlin, but I have a Roadking trailer for my Sailfish. Model RKAV 26-28TRB which is rated for 13000#. I opted for electric/hydraulic brakes on all six wheels in lieu of their normal braking system. Might not be the best money can buy, but it works.

 

[Tuna Man]

John,
The figures I wrote were for my 2006 Marlin, not sure what year you have.

Boat only (dry) with no options an no gear: 8221 lbs
Twin Yamaha F250 with ss props (wet): 1300
Full fuel (306 gallons at 6.2lb gallon): 1900
Water tank, including water heater (45g x 8.34): 375
Options (A/C, TV/DVD, H/T rod holders, cabin rod holders, etc): 200
Accesories (Radar, 3 antennas with mounts, screens, gauges, autopilot, wiring for same, 24' outriggers, etc): 200
Total so far: 12,161 lbs.

Now I doubt you will have people on board the boat while trailering, but you might have ice, drinks, food, fishing equipment, tools, spare parts, life raft, safety gear, etc on board. IF I trailered my boat often (never do), I would consider the worst case. Drive say 100 miles area a few miles from the hotspot, load the boat with these items and all the fluids listed above (including 300 lb ice, etc. and launch the boat. On the other hand, if you will only store or tow the boat when everything is removed and the fluids are practically empty then my thinking is overkill.

Lastly, keep in mind that most (if not all?) boat trailers are rated for the gross weight. In other words a typical 10,000 lb trailer will take 10,000 lb on the axles and wheels, minus the weight of the say 1500 lb aluminum trailer. So you end up with a trailer that can carry about 8500 lb when it's rated for 10,0000 lb.

 

[boatino]

Thanks for the break down Scott. I was just wondering how we were so far off.

John

 

[Hoghunter]

I would recommend no less than a 14,000 lb carry capacity for your trailer. I have a 305 Express with 250's and when loaded with fuel, water, ice and supplies for trips it weighs over 13,200 sitting on the trailer.

The current trailer I have is a triple axle aluminum with a rated carry capacity of 15,000. You want the extra carry capacity as that means you have the heavier suspension, tire carry capacities etc. Thus resulting in less wear and tear on the bearings etc.

When you max out your trailer you usually end up with bearing failures, blown tires etc.

 

[bc282]

i'd recommend a tri-axle trailer with trip 6000# axles (18k trailer with approx 16.5k load capacity).
not a fan of a 5000# load sitting on a 5000# capacity trailer as i think it's much better to be safely under the max capacity yet within the optimal load for the torsion axles.

Some fine specs to consider:
- aluminum bunk trailer
- torsion bar axles
- radial tires
- removable/replaceable spindles (most axles such as Dexter have the spindle welded on to the arm which means you must replace the whole arm or the whole axle should the spindle need replacing).
- LED lights
- elec over hydraulic disk brakes (be sure to get appropriate brake controller, i'm currently fine tuning this myself to get better and safer braking performance from trailer).
- 2 full spare tires with spindle and hub assemblies
- trailer tongue box to store tools, extra parts, grease, blocks, etc
- HD guide posts
- robust wheel fenders (no issue of standing or stepping on them)
- easily accessible hub grease zerks (access and to visually inspect); not a fan of bearing buddies as inspecting is difficult and the fact that they don't work
- i prefer a manufacturer that uses easily accessible and common parts (axles, hubs, spindles, bearings, etc. as these will eventually need service and replacement)

my 0.02

 

[Tuna Man]

One thing to keep in mind while were spending John's money is that in his original post he suggested the trailer would probably be used for storage more than anything else. I have no idea how far the ramp is from where the boat will be stored, nor do we know what the terrain is like in John's area.

Just for a reference, in my case the boat ramp is less than one mile from where I keep the boat over the winter and there are no highways, no hills, no traffic lights, and no stop signs. Not everyone needs the 'perfect' trailer for their needs.

 

[wrobinson]

I had these guys make me a trailer for a 330 express. They have all the grady info all they need is your make and model.
http://www.wescotrailers.net/index.html You have to go through a dealer I think but I am happy with the trailer. I think it was about 7 grand. I threw the receipt away so my wife wouldn't see it.

 

[bc282]

oops, you're right tuna man. i guess i made my ultimate wish list and was diligently spending someone else's $ :<><
OP, if you only use the trailer infrequently, how far do you normally tow and what would the farthest trip be?
For short trips on flat and even paved terrain (<5 miles), perhaps a HD tandem bunk trailer (7500# axles) with surge brakes (if law permits) would be ok, but you'd also better have a min or a 1 ton dually in front of it with good brakes.
If you're trips are normally longer, then a good trailer set up nicely is still IMO the way to go especially since the cost difference would only be at most $1500 which in the big picture is not much over the life span of the boat and trailer.