Marlin windlass wiring

[Lucky Stars]

After having battery issues I've decided to move the windlass wires to the B bank of batteries. This would seperate the windlass draw from the electronics. With the weak batteries the Furuno would shut off on anchor retreval. That can't be good. Even with new, fresh, hot batteries I feel the voltage going to the electronics will drop when the windlass is running. For this reason I want to seperate the windlass.
Now the question. This should be a simple fix, IMHO, move the positive lead from A bank to B bank. Not so far as I can see. It looks to me like the windlass gets power from the helm. The helm is powered by a 10 gauge wire. The windlass, after leaving the helm is wired with a 6 gauge wire. Can this be true or am I missing something here. What is a 20'+ run is done in a shared 10 ga. and the balance of <15' in a dedicated 6 ga.
Seems like I have a couple of options here.
Someone tell me if I'm missing something here.

 

[ocnslr]

When I wanted to add a windlass to our Islander, I was told it was "pre-wired". So I contacted the factory and they told me where to find the wires tucked up behind and outboard of the helm.

After finding the wires, I called them back to ask where they got connected under the helm. I did NOT like the response that they got connected to the main feed under the helm - fed from a 40-amp breaker aft.

So, I installed a separate breaker aft for the windlass and ran properly sized wires forward to the helm area. Connected those to feed the "pre-installed" wires going to the bow, through the breaker that came with the windlass.

All powered from the "house bank"...

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So no, you are not missing anything. Grady does a poor job with windlass wiring....

Brian