DIYers -
I decided not to skip a year and glad I did them - just finished new VST filter job on the twins, first time I did VSTs.
There were several forum threads of different ways to do it, have a 1/2 in. thick file, I reviewed them and have completed the job and have some advise. If you did this job before, skip over and go down to DIY humor if so inclined.
VST filters, done for HPDI, very similar for OX66s & Fs. Didn't do the strainer can filter - will do next year.
1. For VSTs use the Flatlander post on bbc boards.zeroforum.com, from 10/2/05.
His method keeps the VST on the motor- no reason to get it off onto the bench. A lot more work.
2. After reading that thread, I advise the following additions/variations. be sure not to do this job w/o reading the FlatLander thread and see his photos. Read this thread after that one, and look at motor.
3. Do the port engine first on twins, you have clear access. Get a proper fitting fresh screwdriver with fatest handle for the 9 machine bolts on the tank cover, a flashlight, an antenna style magnetic pickup, and one of these popout claw ended spring style retrievers.
4. Loosen all the 9 screws before unmounting the tank. Some were bears for me, starting with the first one. Your screwdriver must not ride out of the screw head, bear staight down with very heavy force to break free these screws. On the 18th screw I overrode it and was lucky to get it out. The ones in the back are also accessible, stand on a stool up high. A few you can loosen the tank bolts a bit. Make sure you have a plumb angle into the screw. The one at the stainer can filter is off a bit on angle, that's the one that had me cussing, had to nudge the can a bit to get straight on, last chance freed it.
5. I bought the two VST filters and two o rings out of Andy, about 100 bucks.
6. Do one motor at a time on twins, use the second motor as a reference if you need one. Seperate the Tie bar and spread both motor apart for the starboard.
7. Use the claw type retrieval device or something similar to pull out the machine screws especially on the back side, I dropped 4 and one twice, into the cowl area, not to mention the 6 flat fender washers and rubber bushings on the tank 3 bolt mount. I got better on the second motor. Was loosing rubber bushings and fender washers only.
8. When dropping the tank lower section, do carefully, the electric pump stayed up, and the o ring stayed put, don't touch it. Take the lower tank to the bench, dry out and inspect whatever is in tank bottom, mine was clean. No rust. DON'T TOUCH O RING.
(my dealer said the O ring can go two seasons, he did new O rings last season).
9. Pay attention to how the filter comes off counterclockwise twist , and the part above it in how it fits up to the base of the electric pump. Good photo by Flatlander.
10. When you bring back the tank, keep your fingers away from o ring, slide up the tank bottom carefully and plumb, when you get about 1/2 inch from landing, look all around the o ring with a flashlight, make sure it is in the groove, you can see the entire ring from the front through the 1/2 in. gap. then keep going and the tank fits together with two guide holes, go straight up not sliding sideways, have two screws ready - install one at each end going all the way in and snug up. The O ring will be in place now. During the process of placing your hands, stay off the top edge of the tank, you may push out the O ring. I did the job when it was about 40 deg f outside, perhaps that's why the O ring didn't mambo out of groove, especially when the ethanol hit it.
11. Tighten all the machine bolts, install the back ones with the claw or magnet so you don't lose them down the cowl. Tighten all nine. Don't forget to tighten the drain plug.
12. When you start to install the three shock mounts, you have to place the plastic cover over the wires on the front end before tightening up the three mounts, otherwsie you will have to take them back out. The wire cover sadles over the top forward mount. Remember each mount has two fender washers and those rubber bushings, lock washer under head of bolt.
13. Don't forget oil line re-connection.
14. I'll do the o rings next time.
15. The VST media was coated with something completely, sucked on the tube and little flow. There is no way the motor would have beat 3K rpms, something like sitting in ethanol for 5 months must have done it. A blast of gumout from the back side cleared a spot readily, the flow was immediate. Glad I did this, would have been stuck working off the grady drive in the marina. Didn't reuse old ones, new ones went in.
Did the job in about 45 minutes per motor, & didn't rush.
Saved $200 labor and 50 bucks for the two o rings. And most of all - job was done 100% correct!
-------------------------------------------
DIYers VST humor -
1. When I dropped the tank, low and behold what's this?, the inside of a carb, with the float and needle valve. Thought I seen enough of carbs for my first 30 yrs, I bet yamaha pulled a carb guy out of assisted living to design this one!
2. One of the three mount bolts on the first motor was missing a lock washer, found it under the fender washer instead of the bolt head!
3. One of the bolts and fender washer were strange looking, both were chrome plated carbon steel, chrome was peeling off. Both washer and carbon steel bolt were not original. What the heck was this?
4. On the second motor, found a fender washer at the base of the tank! So that's where the first motor's missing fender washer was, in the second motors VST tank! I bet if I looked some more, would have found the stainless original bolt and stainless lock washer somewhere else.
Gotta luv those professional mechanics!
NO POS chrome plated carbon steel bolt or fender washer on my motors !
Spent another 45 minutes going to ACE hardware to get an M6 stainless bolt. Of course it was too long, had to dremel cut it shorter.
I covered the 65 cents plus tax for the bolt.
Saved more than $250, for gas station fund!
May return the chrome plated steel garbage hardware to the dealer for his next job!
There's a thread by INAFORTY from THT 9/24/08 that shows a photo of the VSt filter debris coating, it's very fine but blocks the flow thoroughly. The new filter has a slightly looser baggy media, the one I pulled out is taut.
And I had no problems end of last season at all, and no way the filter could have been that bad. I didn't drain the tanks, next year I will - but doesn't really matter, will do VST filters EVERY YEAR!
Good luck.
I decided not to skip a year and glad I did them - just finished new VST filter job on the twins, first time I did VSTs.
There were several forum threads of different ways to do it, have a 1/2 in. thick file, I reviewed them and have completed the job and have some advise. If you did this job before, skip over and go down to DIY humor if so inclined.
VST filters, done for HPDI, very similar for OX66s & Fs. Didn't do the strainer can filter - will do next year.
1. For VSTs use the Flatlander post on bbc boards.zeroforum.com, from 10/2/05.
His method keeps the VST on the motor- no reason to get it off onto the bench. A lot more work.
2. After reading that thread, I advise the following additions/variations. be sure not to do this job w/o reading the FlatLander thread and see his photos. Read this thread after that one, and look at motor.
3. Do the port engine first on twins, you have clear access. Get a proper fitting fresh screwdriver with fatest handle for the 9 machine bolts on the tank cover, a flashlight, an antenna style magnetic pickup, and one of these popout claw ended spring style retrievers.
4. Loosen all the 9 screws before unmounting the tank. Some were bears for me, starting with the first one. Your screwdriver must not ride out of the screw head, bear staight down with very heavy force to break free these screws. On the 18th screw I overrode it and was lucky to get it out. The ones in the back are also accessible, stand on a stool up high. A few you can loosen the tank bolts a bit. Make sure you have a plumb angle into the screw. The one at the stainer can filter is off a bit on angle, that's the one that had me cussing, had to nudge the can a bit to get straight on, last chance freed it.
5. I bought the two VST filters and two o rings out of Andy, about 100 bucks.
6. Do one motor at a time on twins, use the second motor as a reference if you need one. Seperate the Tie bar and spread both motor apart for the starboard.
7. Use the claw type retrieval device or something similar to pull out the machine screws especially on the back side, I dropped 4 and one twice, into the cowl area, not to mention the 6 flat fender washers and rubber bushings on the tank 3 bolt mount. I got better on the second motor. Was loosing rubber bushings and fender washers only.
8. When dropping the tank lower section, do carefully, the electric pump stayed up, and the o ring stayed put, don't touch it. Take the lower tank to the bench, dry out and inspect whatever is in tank bottom, mine was clean. No rust. DON'T TOUCH O RING.
(my dealer said the O ring can go two seasons, he did new O rings last season).
9. Pay attention to how the filter comes off counterclockwise twist , and the part above it in how it fits up to the base of the electric pump. Good photo by Flatlander.
10. When you bring back the tank, keep your fingers away from o ring, slide up the tank bottom carefully and plumb, when you get about 1/2 inch from landing, look all around the o ring with a flashlight, make sure it is in the groove, you can see the entire ring from the front through the 1/2 in. gap. then keep going and the tank fits together with two guide holes, go straight up not sliding sideways, have two screws ready - install one at each end going all the way in and snug up. The O ring will be in place now. During the process of placing your hands, stay off the top edge of the tank, you may push out the O ring. I did the job when it was about 40 deg f outside, perhaps that's why the O ring didn't mambo out of groove, especially when the ethanol hit it.
11. Tighten all the machine bolts, install the back ones with the claw or magnet so you don't lose them down the cowl. Tighten all nine. Don't forget to tighten the drain plug.
12. When you start to install the three shock mounts, you have to place the plastic cover over the wires on the front end before tightening up the three mounts, otherwsie you will have to take them back out. The wire cover sadles over the top forward mount. Remember each mount has two fender washers and those rubber bushings, lock washer under head of bolt.
13. Don't forget oil line re-connection.
14. I'll do the o rings next time.
15. The VST media was coated with something completely, sucked on the tube and little flow. There is no way the motor would have beat 3K rpms, something like sitting in ethanol for 5 months must have done it. A blast of gumout from the back side cleared a spot readily, the flow was immediate. Glad I did this, would have been stuck working off the grady drive in the marina. Didn't reuse old ones, new ones went in.
Did the job in about 45 minutes per motor, & didn't rush.
Saved $200 labor and 50 bucks for the two o rings. And most of all - job was done 100% correct!
-------------------------------------------
DIYers VST humor -
1. When I dropped the tank, low and behold what's this?, the inside of a carb, with the float and needle valve. Thought I seen enough of carbs for my first 30 yrs, I bet yamaha pulled a carb guy out of assisted living to design this one!
2. One of the three mount bolts on the first motor was missing a lock washer, found it under the fender washer instead of the bolt head!
3. One of the bolts and fender washer were strange looking, both were chrome plated carbon steel, chrome was peeling off. Both washer and carbon steel bolt were not original. What the heck was this?
4. On the second motor, found a fender washer at the base of the tank! So that's where the first motor's missing fender washer was, in the second motors VST tank! I bet if I looked some more, would have found the stainless original bolt and stainless lock washer somewhere else.
Gotta luv those professional mechanics!
NO POS chrome plated carbon steel bolt or fender washer on my motors !
Spent another 45 minutes going to ACE hardware to get an M6 stainless bolt. Of course it was too long, had to dremel cut it shorter.
I covered the 65 cents plus tax for the bolt.
Saved more than $250, for gas station fund!
May return the chrome plated steel garbage hardware to the dealer for his next job!
There's a thread by INAFORTY from THT 9/24/08 that shows a photo of the VSt filter debris coating, it's very fine but blocks the flow thoroughly. The new filter has a slightly looser baggy media, the one I pulled out is taut.
And I had no problems end of last season at all, and no way the filter could have been that bad. I didn't drain the tanks, next year I will - but doesn't really matter, will do VST filters EVERY YEAR!
Good luck.
