I have a 1997 yamaha v6 175 2-stroke outboard that stays in the up position. It's not the manual latch that keeps it up, I checked that already. I'm getting electricity, the motor sounds fine when you hit either the up or down switch. Does it sound like hydraulic fluid issue?
Motor won't trim down
- Thread starter ghcpa9
- Start date
I just went through a trim issue on my '97 OX66 250hp. Buy mine would not trim up. Yours not going down I would think it is a cylinder that is stuck. Could be corrosion that is stuck on the gasket. How high is it trimmed? All the way up? If it is only part way up then I would guess the motor is not actually spinning to push/pull the fluid to get it to release pressure.
becareful of hydraulic fill-screw
Hello Guys
if you check the hydraulic fluid be careful. Don't unscrew the filler cap with the trim pistons fully compressed. The screw will shoot off like a rocket. The piston compressed are about 2000psi.
Kind regards
Mark
Hello Guys
if you check the hydraulic fluid be careful. Don't unscrew the filler cap with the trim pistons fully compressed. The screw will shoot off like a rocket. The piston compressed are about 2000psi.
Kind regards
Mark
internal corrosion -could have internal short
Hi
Not sure about Yamm's but many trim tab motors (housings) are made out regular steel, which are painted . You could have a ground wire corroded on backside or short internally.
mark
Hi
Not sure about Yamm's but many trim tab motors (housings) are made out regular steel, which are painted . You could have a ground wire corroded on backside or short internally.
mark
Mine got stuck once - I had one guy hold the foot up and I unscrewed the cap one turn (with a long screw driver). It burped and the motor dropped - has been fine since-
As mentioned above, I always release pressure by dropping the motors just a little after fully raising them.
Tim
As mentioned above, I always release pressure by dropping the motors just a little after fully raising them.
Tim
OK, here is what I encountered today. Trim switch on 704 control unit will trim motor UP, but not DOWN. Trim switch on side of motor will trim motor (99 150 ox66) BOTH UP and DOWN with no issues. Bad solenoid in 704 control unit? If so, is this an easy or difficult fix? Just-in-time, little help please? Thanks!
Gman25
GreatGrady Captain
There is a screw on the port side that will drop the engine bypassing the trim/tilt..its in line with the tilt pistons and the screw is resessed in the engine bracket.
the switch on the 704 remote
just clean them up, i do and apply a ton of dielectric grease in them
aslo knowns as
throttle control
remote
binnacle
just clean them up, i do and apply a ton of dielectric grease in them
aslo knowns as
throttle control
remote
binnacle
If you hear the tilt motor running both when trying to trim up and down, it isn't the switch or a solenoid.ghcpa9 said:
The piston could be stuck but it is unlikely that all three pistons are stuck, so if none move, its either a valve issue or a fluid issue or even a bad pump. Check the fluid level but engage the manual stops first. The next step is to open the manual overide valve and see if you can muscle the motor down. be careful there also and keep clear of the tail just in case it decides to quickly drop.
Could be the trim soldenoid switch, on my HPDI we had this happen, would trim one direction but not the other. Made a clicking sound when going the way it would not move, no motor running, but worked the oposite direction. Might be this if all else fails, very quick swap out but not a cheap part.
seasick said:
Thanks, Sea. I tried the override screw on the port side, really tough to turn while I'm squatting down on the swim platform, even with a decent sized screwdriver. But it does come down intermittently. Hey noob question, how do I check the fluid level? Where am I looking?
Also, on the starboard side of the bracket, there is a turnable screwcap that when unscrewed lets out a tiny bit of air pressure. What is that?
yes that is it
always check when fully trimmed up on 3 ram systems
always down on signal ram systems
always check when fully trimmed up on 3 ram systems
always down on signal ram systems
Similar issue with 704 controller
I had a similar issue with my 704 controller (model year 2000).
Trimmed the engine down, then suddenly would trim backup - pretty interesting to have your engine trim up when running wide open :shock:
I isolated the issue down to bad switch within the 704 unit.
Ordered a new one (about $75) and replaced it myself.
Took a few hours, but has been trouble free for past four years.
One hard part was getting the enough slack in the cable within the 704 to allow full forward and reverse movements of the throttle.
Cheers,
- Rhumbline
I had a similar issue with my 704 controller (model year 2000).
Trimmed the engine down, then suddenly would trim backup - pretty interesting to have your engine trim up when running wide open :shock:
I isolated the issue down to bad switch within the 704 unit.
Ordered a new one (about $75) and replaced it myself.
Took a few hours, but has been trouble free for past four years.
One hard part was getting the enough slack in the cable within the 704 to allow full forward and reverse movements of the throttle.
Cheers,
- Rhumbline
you can clean the switches up and re-use, no need for replacing them
all they are is just to contacts
i flop the switch around
but then again, my time opening it up and cleaning is a little quicker then replacing, not by much though
all they are is just to contacts
i flop the switch around
but then again, my time opening it up and cleaning is a little quicker then replacing, not by much though
Adding to this discussion from a few years ago: My 704 Yamaha binnacle TnT switch went bad 2 years ago. Since it was the original (2005) I decided to get a new one and probably made a bad decision by opting for a $20 switch (this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ML5MFPQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1) instead of the $100 Yamaha switch because it broke this week: Only the up position works. You can feel that -mechanically- the down position of the switch is not going all the way.
I am tempted to replace the binnacle switch by a new panel mounted switch (and put it next to my pair of hydraulic tab switches), or may be leave the defective binnacle switch 'as is' and add the new switch and connect the wiring in parallel. Frankly, when using the boat, I never find it helpful to have the TnT switch on the throttle handle itself. I rarely leave my hand on the throttle anyway, so the TnT switch seems to be always hard to reach when I am underway and want to make an adjustment.
Thoughts?
I am tempted to replace the binnacle switch by a new panel mounted switch (and put it next to my pair of hydraulic tab switches), or may be leave the defective binnacle switch 'as is' and add the new switch and connect the wiring in parallel. Frankly, when using the boat, I never find it helpful to have the TnT switch on the throttle handle itself. I rarely leave my hand on the throttle anyway, so the TnT switch seems to be always hard to reach when I am underway and want to make an adjustment.
Thoughts?