Need input on bottom paint please.

[A&J Outdoors]

I have an 03 282 that has never been bottom painted. It was always in a boat house or trailered. I plan to put it in a slip this fall (texas coast, salt water) but then in the spring we'll be taking it to Michigan where it will live in a Freshwater slip (except when winterized). I know there are several different types of bottom paint and each has pro and cons. So I'm looking for something relatively easy to apply (doing it myself) that can hold up to 8 months of salt and then freshwater for the rest of its' life. Thanks.

 

[SkunkBoat]

You really need to do an epoxy barrier first. That prevents gelcoat blisters. Go on Pettit or interlux website to research that.
After that any ablative copper bottom paint will do. Ablative will allow for pulling and launching multiple times. Idk if Michigan has restrictions on use of copper paint. There are some expensive copper free paints if necessary

 

[seasick]

If you don't have any blisters after 34 years of service, you don't really need a barrier coat. If you do have blisters, you have to fix them before the barrier coat. It can be a involved job. So, assume no blisters. I recommend a primer coat and then anti-fouling coat. Select the primer and anti fouling from the same manufacturer. Before those paints can be applied, the bottom has to be sanded and de-waxed (maybe). Select ablative water based anti-fouling but as mentioned check local restrictions if any on types of paint.
There is another area that you will need to address. Assuming the boat currently has zinc anodes, they will not work in fresh water. The best for fresh is magnesium but they don't work in salt water so... You will have to swap out all anodes for aluminum. This step is critical. The wrong anodes can result is serious damage to the running gear, motors, trim tabs etc.. If you are not up to speed on what anodes are what, get them addressed by a professional.
If you think that you can apply the above mentioned pains and then not have to worry about them forever, you are dreaming. You can get several seasons out of bottom paint but how long or how short depends on type of water, temperature, sunlight, boat use or non uses etc.

 

[SkunkBoat]

If you don't have any blisters after 34 years of service, you don't really need a barrier coat. If you do have blisters, you have to fix them before the barrier coat. It can be a involved job. So, assume no blisters. I recommend a primer coat and then anti-fouling coat. Select the primer and anti fouling from the same manufacturer. Before those paints can be applied, the bottom has to be sanded and de-waxed (maybe). Select ablative water based anti-fouling but as mentioned check local restrictions if any on types of paint.
There is another area that you will need to address. Assuming the boat currently has zinc anodes, they will not work in fresh water. The best for fresh is magnesium but they don't work in salt water so... You will have to swap out all anodes for aluminum. This step is critical. The wrong anodes can result is serious damage to the running gear, motors, trim tabs etc.. If you are not up to speed on what anodes are what, get them addressed by a professional.
If you think that you can apply the above mentioned pains and then not have to worry about them forever, you are dreaming. You can get several seasons out of bottom paint but how long or how short depends on type of water, temperature, sunlight, boat use or non uses etc.

no thats not right. He's been trailered or racked for all that time. now he wants to leave it in the water.
It would be penny wise and pound foolish to bottom paint without a barrier coat.

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

Applying epoxy barrier coat is certainly not a bad idea, but involves a additional step and time in between.
On all boats i used AF primer and then directly and they where 11 months in a saltwater slip, however it's OP's decision to use Epoxy Barrier Coat or not.

In any case, to start from a bare hull OP has to consider that this is a big task and is a pita to do when on blocks and almost impossible to do it right when on a trailer.

1. in case fill any dings and nicks
2. slightly sand with fine grit sandpaper or the red scotch professional pads to roughen the surface for better adhering
3. wash the hull with degreaser
4. use AF primer or epoxy barrier coat, if epoxy barrier coat not sure if primer is needed
5. let dry after instructions considering humidity and ambient temp
6. check for drops and other uneven parts, sand them flat if any
7. apply primer if needed
8. let dry after instructions considering humidity and ambient temp
9. apply first coat of AF using a short hair roller and wide and small brush for small spaces
10. let dry after instructions considering humidity and ambient temp
11. check for drops and other uneven parts, sand them flat if any
12. apply second coat as above
13. let dry after instructions considering humidity and ambient temp
14. check for drops and other uneven parts, sand them flat if any
15. Congrats you are done

• rent a space to put the boat on stands or block as high as possible to work kneeing or standing, not on your back, if possible
  If working on your back is needed a workshop roller board to roll around when on your back makes the whole job much more comfortable
• Easiest work is is on a lift with slings and boat on eye level, once done on stands to dry, repeat, then move slings and paint the unpainted area
  Wait at least 2 days to move the slings to not damage not fully hardened AF
• as i wrote already, doing a paint job from scratch on a trailer is extremely laborious and will lead to a shitty paint job
• follow the instructions for the different products, they know better how to do it
• buy a mixer stick for paint and mix it well, then mix it again, copper settles in storage on the bottom and you need to stir it up
• I suggest to buy one roller handle but more than enough rollers and brushes and throw them away after use
• use the correct diluent as specified to dilute a bit if needed, clean yourself and if you overpaint or splatters
• buy a painter overall, nitril gloves and a face mask with filter for diluents if working indoor, face mask could be skipped if working outdoors and with a breeze
• use only high quality masking tape, the blue or green 3M one and remove immediately with still wet paint, don't leave it for more than a few hours and not exposed for a day or more exposed to sunlight and heat as it wil disintegrate.
• Key for a successful AF job is following the instructions and smoothen after hardening every drop, error, sticking things, etc
  If you start wrong and/or with uneven surfaces you will have that till you remove all again, so do it right from beginning

Consider to have it done and enjoy something else while pro's do the paint job

I had more than good experiences using International Antifoulings on my and friends boats, more you pay for it, longer it last.
Now i have International Trilux 33 for 2 months and hull is perfectly clean, same as when we dropped her.
Verify AF rules in your freshwater location as there may be restrictions.

Chris

 

[A&J Outdoors]

Thanks guys for the input, I've watched some videos () of people doing it on the trailer, that was the plan. But, I think I'll check and see what it would cost to have it done. Or at least have some place to do it on stands/sling. Again, thanks!