need trailer brake help

I was wondering earlier, if someone had spent that kind of money on a partial brake job, or did it include other trailer parts? Like all new axles, springs, and hardware. There are numbers somewhere on the hubs and/or axles that will allow you to figure axle weight.
You do show a 5 pin flat in pic #3, but it looks like it is missing at least the bottom pin, which would be the blue Dennis is referring to. Blue is an auxillary, and for the solenoid to work, it has to be connected to your back up light circuit on the truck. Are you hooking to a factory plug on the truck, and are there any adapters in the connection, such as, from 7 round to 5 flat?
There is a broken off ground under your coupler, that may be for the solenoid.
You have some funky wiring, different sizes, and there is a black and white for some reason.

https://www.google.com/search?clien...5#imgdii=yAkVqEl5YRL0yM:&imgrc=-jngmnHGPVpXPM:


5-way-flat-connector.jpg
 
Agreed, the wiring needs to be cleaned up and verified. That was why I left it hanging out. All aspects of this will be tested, verified, documented, and cleaned up, just know I need the new pads no matter what. When I am done, as I already told my wife, I will spend the money to make a new and proper plaque to be placed on the trailer with all pertinent i formation so that the next person, if I ever sell it heh, will not have to wonder. By the end of next weekend, this trailer will be in ship shape, or I will replace every aspect of it.

R
 
Just spoke with the trailer people and they state that the axles are 5200lb axles. So, the pads I purchased are 3500-6000 so should be fine.

They will be here Wednesday. I have to clean the house up for guests for tomorrow night, so will try to get the brake fluid bled but may not happen till later...heh. Going to test all the wires to make sure they are good.

R
 
Russ, did you double check everywhere (inside edge of frame?) for the trailer capacity plate info? That would have the VIN and manufacturer and you could call them - they can tell all sorts of things about your trailer/brakes/axles. Or, if your paperwork lists the VIN? The could probably even tell you by a description or a picture. Sounds like you got this under control now, but just in case...
 
yes, I checked eeeeeeeverywhere, nothing on the trailer. I have the VIN from the original purchase paperwork, as well as all subsequent paperwork copies, but it is not anywhere on the trailer.

I plan to re-add it later.

The key was figuring out what the heck size the axles were. The trailer is solid, as solid as you would expect, but the brake system is dated and so, no-one ever used the trailer. It was bought in Galveston, so was in the water all the time, sold to a guy in Florida, he used it twice in 4 years to move it a short distance. I think the thing was just plain locked due to no usage.

So, will test the other two parts and rewire the electrical system and replace as needed anything else, but should be good to go then.

Thanks for all the help, btw May be another few weeks before I actually get to go out since this will take time and time is something I just do not have in abundance atm.

R
 
Strange that it's not there. If it's not there, though, there should be a 'ghost' of where it was when someone peeled it off. Aside from one side or the other of the frame somewhere up near the front or one of the side frame pieces, I've even seen them on the inside edge of the frame at the back end. Weird, but I do remember seeing that. The trailer manufacturer should be able to get you a new VIN plate, I would think.
 
Yea, the whole thing is weird. I have a call into a trailer place to see what a new trailer might cost. The only option I really have is to replace most everything so I know for a fact what it has, but we will see. Right now, one step at a time.
 
I went new route with trailer for mine. After seeing the original trailer underneath my 228 and knowing I had a 12 hour road trip back home to Kentucky from Florida, I doubt it would have made it back. Since I'm strictly a trailer boater, the new trailer was a good choice for me. I had contacted Loadmaster in Tampa the week before I went after it, and they had the new trailer ready the Monday before I came home.
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Nice.

I just called and my options are a 10k lb tandem for like 5700 or a 15k lb triple axle for like 7800. I do not think I need the triple.

Will see what I want to do.

Worst case, I could replace the parts that need to be replaced for like 600 on this trailer...and be done with it, for now.

We will see.

R
 
I wouldn't bother bleeding until I got everything else done. You will be opening bleeder valves to get the other pads out, compressing cylinders to get new pads in, etc. Never know when you may have to disconnect a line, like replacing the solenoid. Do it once with everything new in place.
 
Sorry, that was my plan....just meant I plan to remove the other wheels between now and Wednesday. It is veeeerrryyy tempting to just buy a new actuator, cylinder and brake lockout and call it done heh.. but, they may be fine..
 
For me, it would depend on what I was going to be doing with the boat. If you're docking it and just need the trailer for maintenance or hurricane transport, then I'd use what I have, if you're going to trailer it and go different places, I'd invest in a new one. I was able to trade my old trailer back in to Loadmaster so that helped some with the new trailer purchase.
 
Tried that route.. none of them will take the trade.

So, I would have to fix it no matter what, then sell it or keep it.

R
 
I wonder, if I repaired the trailer, if it would sell for like 2k bucks....if so, may just replace it, but would want to get this one working at least. Scratch that... just going to do the repairs....they want a crazy price... so.. nnnneeeever mind.

back to the previously scheduled program lol
 
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It's a tough call often on whether is pays to rebuild a trailer especially if it is steel and used in a salt environment. The main rails and cross members corrode from the inside out and it is difficult to determine the amount of corrosion until the metal actually corrodes through to the outside. Leaf springs and their hangers are another area where corrosion can be superficial or more serious. Aluminum trailers don't have as many issues and torsion springs in general tend to be less prone to corrosion than leafs.
Twp seasons ago overhauled my dual axle 4700# trailer with new springs, new stainless disks (the original were drum brakes), new bearings and hubs, new brake lines and fittings and of course a new actuator for the disks. I also replacedall wiring, connectors and lights. I was lucky that my frame was in good shape . I also replaces the tires not for wear but for age.
I only launch and haul once a season but the trailer is kept near salt water. What amazes me is how fast things start to rust. I try to wire brush and spray cold galvanizing paint on those spots but as they say, "Rust never sleeps".
If I remember correctly i spent about $900 on parts.
The secret to the job is PB Blaster and a hot torch!
 
lol.. love me some torch power ;)

This will be fine. All will be well, I just need time and parts.. then, gotta get on the water
 
Eh, said to heck with it, in for a dime....

I went ahead and ordered a new brake master cylinder and reverse lockout. The ones on the trailer are old...

So, all that is left is the big boy, the brake actuator....hoping that one is okay as it is like $350....if I can get by with that, then we are golden, otherwise another week for that part. I'll replace it later anyway, but this way I can just re-wire the entire thing.

R
 
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