New Style Deck Drain Info

Fishtales

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The plastic ones are tapered as you say. These ones are not. The nylon backside is flat as well. The topside deck floor where the scupper drain interfaces with is flat as well so no issues on my boat. I think you will be ok.
 

BobP

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Maybe a stupid question, but is the flange tapered for the hole it fits in? I replaced mine years ago and got them from Grady and thought they were tapered .At least the are flush with the floor recess area, but these SS one's look like they have a lip that will stick up some?

My model is the 252G Sailfish. If these will fit, I would love to replace mine over the winter as I can see the are already aged from the sun.

Hey, remember me? Same name, same boat and year, same motors. Been about 10 yrs since I communicated. I recall you helping me out with a mold issue in the cabin, nasty stuff that mold. Anyway, just a tip, google up Perko 285DP. I used these to replace the four in the deck. Just have to cut to length in the threaded area, and file down a bit the bevel area to make it fit - same as original, take your time filing so it stays symmetrical. I have them in there more than 15 yrs, no yellowing, at same time did the 4 hoses. Less than 20 bucks per, and they have the cross bars and ring so no sinkers go down there. I can take a photo if desired. This is a cost effective alternative. Take care.
 

ROBERTH

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Hey BobP, yes I remember you and hope all is going well! Thanks for the info and I will definately check it out. I would like to have the SS version as I don't want to do this again, but if they are up too high I might not be happy with the result.

Glacierbaze, those are good pics for sure. Does anyone have any pics of them installed up close to show the final result and how much they are above the floor surface? Maybe the amount is not worrisome, but would like to see it for sure.
 

glacierbaze

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They are actually recessed, rather than protruding. On my seafarer, there is a step down from the nonskid to the smooth glass, and a further recess in the circular depression, for the drain itself.
Check to see if Grady left you the same surprise that I found in the last picture.99EDC990-0180-4F4B-ACBE-69EF2C832BE1.jpeg778BA1CA-6889-43D7-86C7-331C860C2A78.jpegAB411447-C4F2-4867-BAB9-F59A481CB973.jpeg1FEE429A-6465-44CD-840D-0EBF99E00E04.jpeg
 

Ryhlick

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Can you explain this further? I did mine this past spring and mine didn't look like this. No screw, and the hole was not offset, just curious
 

ROBERTH

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Yeah, I can't make out what is going on in that last pic. Seems if that is the floor, then the oil tank is not mounted vertically. Also, where are those screws coming from as the are not in the floor. This looks more like a bulkhead with a hole that is vertical to the orientation with the oil tank cap on top.
 

glacierbaze

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Sorry, those screws are supporting the aft end of the port side under gunnel rod storage. You can see the head of the screw in the third picture, above the drain. It was just a cautionary comment, in case you reached in there with your left hand to the underside of the scupper, and catch the screw with your hand, as I did .
The scupper drain hose runs up under there, but has already been removed in the picture.
 
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ROBERTH

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Ah, yeah, I get constant surprises when working under the deck. Just pulled the aft floor panel to change out the primary 1500gph original bilge pump and float switch, repositioned my backup 2000gph bilge pump and float switch, pulled both remote oil tanks, sandblasted/painted the brackets, replaced the remote oil fill pumps/filters and re-installed. I have the cuts and bruises to prove it!