New to Grady Family - Need Advice

[jziegler]

Hi. Just bought a 1986 25' Sailfish on ebay. Paid $2K for it. Opted not to buy the 2001 twin Yamaha 200 HPDI engines for another $8K. Looks like a really nice boat but has some structural damage. The previous owner saw the floor moving, removed the two fuel tanks, and found a bunch of rotton wood stringers and bulkheads around the fuel tanks. Not sure of the extend but for $2K, I figured I could not go wrong. Pictures are here:

http://s850.photobucket.com/albums/ab64/jziegler_photos/Grady White/

What do you guys think? Good deal? Big project ahead of me?

Thanks. Joe[/url]

 

[richie rich]

for 2 grand you bought a great hull.....for 2 grand you bought a great project....I have an 88 and am in the midst of a stringer transom rebuild....for that kind of money its great....but prepare for a years worth of getting her seaworthy....if so, you will have a grand find .....I'd buy her for 2k tomorrow...no motors..great..you can buy brand new and be set for the next 15 years...nice job......what skills do you have

 

[no problem]

You are in for a ride for sure! I watched that auction and you got an amazing deal if you can pull off the repair. The trailer is worth at least 2k. Yes definitely a big project, but when you are done you will know everything about your boat. Before the auction that boat was for sale for much more than you paid. Good luck and keep us posted!

 

[BobP]

You may have to replace entire stringer grid, as rot starts at rear and extends forward typically.

Big labor project for DIYer.

There are four stringers in cockpit area and a couple of bulkheads. Two more subfloor stringers under gas tank area.

A job like this would take me several years.

 

[jziegler]

Figured it was a project. I was wondering why I won the ebay auction so low. Yea, I figured the trailer was worth almost $2K. I saw the boat and it really looks great until you pull up the hatch covering the space where the two fuel tanks go. There is still a chance that the damage is limited to the back but I would want a complete new structural system anyway.

How difficult is it to remove the two main pieces of the boat above the hull? If I can get to the hull, I can make the repairs without too much problem. I just don't want to trash the rest of the boat getting to the hull.

Does anyone have any pictures of the hull opened up exposeing the stringers and bulkheads? Does anyone have any spec drawings, etc. Anything would help.

I am pretty handy with boats and have a big space to work in. I have restored lots of Whalers & Makos and am in the middle of a 31 Bertram project. Have a great fiberglass guy and a great source/mechanic for Suzuki outboards (Gus Boats in Lantana, FL). This is my first Grady but the more I research the boat, the more I like it.

Thanks guys. Joe

 

[Capt Armchair]

I am pretty handy with boats and have a big space to work in. I have restored lots of Whalers & Makos and am in the middle of a 31 Bertram project. Have a great fiberglass guy and a great source/mechanic for Suzuki outboards (Gus Boats in Lantana, FL). This is my first Grady but the more I research the boat, the more I like it.

Well you are clearly setup to do the job, post lots of pics of the process and good luck.

 

[richie rich]

JZ, shoot me a PM with your address...I think I can send you some interesting photos of what you're in for.

 

[BobP]

Spend some time over at ClassicMako.com

My understanding, if you remove the liner and cap, the hull can destort out of shape and never be able to return to proper shape, nor be able to get the liner back in.

Ask over at Classicmako.

At the minimum I think, you would have to build a very tight full lenght cradle, and a crane to pull off the liner which is glassed and screwed in.

But certainly, once the hull grid is opened up, a much faster job to do.

Hopefully the rear half only is questionable, then you can work thru the gas tank cover and cut the floor out to the sides to get the other stringer and check the foam, and get the transom from the rear. All done with liner in place.

You can get to the cabin area grid by cutting a line about 1 foot off the cabin sole all around, then split right down the middle and remove from boat. That will get most of the wood forward.