New to me - Grady White with a 200 yamaha saltwater (1996). After running the boat there is a large amount of oil (I guess) around the lower unit of the motor (in water) It continues to spread for about a 2ft. Is this normal for this motor? I have just replaced the oil pump/sender from the aux tank oil tank. It was doing this before it was replaced. Suggestion or just normal for unused oil?
Oil in water around motor after running?
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You might want to check your lower unit. I would change the oil and see if it is milky in color. If it is I would change the seals and make sure the gasket is on the drain plugs.
I suppose it could also be leaking under the cowling and running down the outside of the engine. Either way it isn't normal to have the oil ring.
I suppose it could also be leaking under the cowling and running down the outside of the engine. Either way it isn't normal to have the oil ring.
It is either lower unit oil leaking or it is 2 stroke oil leaking or exhausting from the motor. In either case, you need to find out which it is. It the LU oil runs low, you will damage it. Do you know what your 2 stroke oil consumption is or was compared to gas consumption?
By the way, if it is lower unit oil, it could be as simple as a loose filler screw or it could be a seal.
By the way, if it is lower unit oil, it could be as simple as a loose filler screw or it could be a seal.
I had a 95 saltwater series up until last year and had two experiences like yours. One was a failed shaft seal. The second was the top on the oil reservoir under the cowling was leaking and only when the engine was tilted up. The two stroke oil would dribble down into the engine cowling and eventually come out where the cowling and the lower shaft casing meet. That one was caused by God know what. I took the cap off wiped it down inspected it and found nothing. So I put it back on and it never leaked again.
Have you wrapped any fishing line around your prop or hit anything with your lower unit or prop lately? Both will do a number on the shaft seals. Pull the lower unit drain plug you will know as soon as you see the oil if it is seals.
Have you wrapped any fishing line around your prop or hit anything with your lower unit or prop lately? Both will do a number on the shaft seals. Pull the lower unit drain plug you will know as soon as you see the oil if it is seals.
The second was the top on the oil reservoir under the cowling was leaking and only when the engine was tilted up. The two stroke oil would dribble down into the engine cowling and eventually come out where the cowling and the lower shaft casing meet.
Put a zip tie around the cap to eliminate that problem.
Put a zip tie around the cap to eliminate that problem.
I got the same problem and pulling the boat after work. I'm pretty sure it's the lower unit drain plug. The manual says torque to 5-lbs. I know I put it in too loose. How much is 5-foot lbs with a screw driver?? A little tight? pretty tight? or grunt tight? I hate when I do this $hit!
Whoa, plenty of new members coming in!
Don't run that motor again unless you leave home wit $2K in your pocket and can give up the boat for the next two weeks!
Don't run that motor again unless you leave home wit $2K in your pocket and can give up the boat for the next two weeks!
When we mention shaft seal we mean the seal under the water pump right? If that was leaking wouldn't the oil be coming out the water pump intake making the source easy to spot? If it's a prop shaft seal I would think that's a job for a pro.
What motor brand says torque to 5 ft lbs?
Does the units read as "ft lbs" or lb ft"?
Lower unit has to be pressure tesed, oil changed, fluid inspected.
Even if no leaks you may want to demand new seals on older motors, instead of waiting to blow the $2K on rebuild when water becomes the gear case lubricant, not to mention two weeks on season.
Three seals are involved, as I recall.
Does the units read as "ft lbs" or lb ft"?
Lower unit has to be pressure tesed, oil changed, fluid inspected.
Even if no leaks you may want to demand new seals on older motors, instead of waiting to blow the $2K on rebuild when water becomes the gear case lubricant, not to mention two weeks on season.
Three seals are involved, as I recall.
Motor's a '99 Yamaha 150 2-smoke. It has 0-rings on the drain screw. Knew I should have used new o-rings. Boat's been sitting in the slip since Sunday and last night with motor up. I went down last night and noticed the slick. So it's leaking long after the motor's been running.
Tucker said:
The drain and fill screws take a thick paper type gasket. If your's have o-rings, that's probably the source of the leak. Take them off and put the right gaskets on.
enfish
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gw204 said:
The drain and fill screw seals we use are plastic or nylon of some kind. A package of 10 costs just a few bucks. They are 1 time use only things since they compress and deform.
I have the same motors and I get a small oil slick around the motors when i start them cold. I never gave it much thought both motors use the same amout of oil, so there not one leaking. But if you think you have a leak, when you put the motor do you see the slick or only after you start it? An drop of oil makes a big slick. I would think if you had a leak it would be all the time, not just when running.
Do you have a long idle period before shutting down (long no-wake zone or something)? If so, I've been told there is plenty of unburned fuel/oil that will come out. Mine creates that small slick sometimes and I'm not losing lower unit oil.
Thanks for all of your input. The trim cylinders were leaking. We replaced the o rings and they have worked like a charm since. Sorry for the long delay in response. We have really been enjoying our "new" old boat.