Power Inverter

[White Horses (Mike)]

I just bought a Grady White 225 Tournament dual console for daytrips with the kids and friends. I was planning to get a 12 volt blender for "boat drinks" and general foolishness. I've read some reviews that they are not so great, and a number of folks recommended getting an inverter and using a typical (and cheaper) line voltage blender.

I would guess that a blender would require at least 500 amps and prob. 700?

Here are my questions:

Is there anything that makes some inverters particularly "marine" or am I free to buy any automotive inverter?

If I wire a 700 amp inverter to my 2 battery system - is that ok if I take care not to run electronics off the inverter for long? (I'm thinking about the 5 minute margarita!)

Can the inverter live in the transom compartment where the batteries are - if it is nice and dry?

Thanks for any feedback!

Mike

 

[ocnslr]

I would guess that a blender would require at least 500 amps and prob. 700?

Here are my questions:

Is there anything that makes some inverters particularly "marine" or am I free to buy any automotive inverter?

If I wire a 700 amp inverter to my 2 battery system - is that ok if I take care not to run electronics off the inverter for long? (I'm thinking about the 5 minute margarita!)

Can the inverter live in the transom compartment where the batteries are - if it is nice and dry?

Thanks for any feedback!

Mike

I think you mean 500-700 WATTS, not AMPS.

If your load is 500-700 watts, then you should get a 1,000-watt inverter. You really don't want to run it 100% loaded if at all possible.

I won't tell you that you have to purchase a marine inverter, but I would strongly recommend it.

The inverter is not 100% efficient. If you are using a 700-watt AC load, then the inverter may pull 800-watts. At 12VDC, that is almost 70amps. So:
1) you don't want to pull from those two batteries for too long.
2) the inverter should be installed as close to the batteries as you can reasonably place it, so the DC cables can be kept as short as possible.

Our ProWatt 1,000-Watt inverter is mounted inside the transom. We run the microwave from it whenever needed.

Brian

 

[dduflo]

Ocnslr
I too have an Islander. How did you wire the inverter into the system to run your microwave? I still have the factory installed 3 battery system. Have you changed/upgraded yours? Thanks

 

[White Horses (Mike)]

Thanks a lot - that is very helpful. Yes, I did mean watts. sorry about that.

Glad to hear the transom location is working for you. I assume your batteries are in there also?

Dumb Question - did you just run an internal extension cord to your microwave?

 

[White Horses (Mike)]

Thanks again Brian - BTW I was admiring your rig - I am a little concerned though that you might not have enough fishing rods! ...looks awesome...

 

[ocnslr]

Thanks again Brian - BTW I was admiring your rig - I am a little concerned though that you might not have enough fishing rods! ...looks awesome...

Thanks for the compliments. That was an offshore trip that included our usual pelagic trolling, bailing, and deep-dropping. We had 17 rods onboard.

That photo was taken at the fuel dock at LCrk Marina after a high-speed run in from offshore to weigh in two citation Blueline Tilefish.

Brian

 

[ocnslr]

Ocnslr
I too have an Islander. How did you wire the inverter into the system to run your microwave? I still have the factory installed 3 battery system. Have you changed/upgraded yours? Thanks

Just as there is a positive interlock between shore power and a generator on a boat with a generator, you have to have the same "positive disconnect" between the inverter and shore power.

The Prowatt 1000 output can be a plugged in cord, or a permanently wired output. I purchased a 12-foot 30-amp shore power cable, cut off the male (shore) end, and ran the cable from the area above the shore power inlet box to the inverter. It was then hard-wired it into the inverter.

If we want to use the inverter, we "plug it in" to the shore power inlet, making sure the hot water heater is off first. The we can power up the inverter, and use A/C loads such as the microwave or something plugged in to an A/C outlet.

Please feel free to contact me if you want to set up a phoncon about this.

Brian

 

[freddy063]

by the time you install the inverter,tranfer switch, cable and breakers. your into it for about $3,000.00 why don't you just blend the ice at home and put it in a cooler and mix it out on the boat? I installed the whole 9 yards in our boat and used it a few times for the microwave, now we don't use it at all.

 

[ocnslr]

by the time you install the inverter,tranfer switch, cable and breakers. your into it for about $3,000.00 why don't you just blend the ice at home and put it in a cooler and mix it out on the boat? I installed the whole 9 yards in our boat and used it a few times for the microwave, now we don't use it at all.

Not sure how you got to $3K. And I didn't use a transfer switch - my description above explains my "positive interlock"...

 

[GWcpa]

Or get a Tailgator for $300. Much more fun. :lol: Hard to beat a gasoline powered blender, even if it a 2 stroke.


http://www.frattoys.com/product_info.php?products_id=65

 

[TBone]

WAAAAAAAAAAAAYYYYY COOOOOOLLLLL!!!!!!!!!!! 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)

 

[fishingFINattic]

Carefully selection at the local Walmart should result in a blender that uses 350 watts.....
Tim

 

[chrisA.]

We hooked up our inverter on our Islander just like Brian did on his and it works great,used the same shore power cord setup too,maybe spent 400.00.we just keep the power cord plugged in all the time until we are going to shore power,then the cord gets put in a clamp under the dash.

 

[BobP]

I had the Prowatt 1000 in the transom one season, had to get it the heck out of there, started to rust, nearly a total loss, caught it in time. The shortest DC run cable will be the most economical installation though.

Make sure you have no dripping water or condensation, or otherwise keep an eye on it. Dripping water can be taken cared of with a drip shield, but condensation, nothing can solve.

 

[Islander]

I had planned to install an inverter in the battery/bilge compartment of my 270 Islander. This location provides the shortest cable run and really is the only practical location. I did some research, including a review of the owner's manual. The installation instructions consistently give warnings that suggest this should not be done and, since an inverter is not a critical need for me, I haven't done it yet. I would be interested in views on this issue. Is this similar to the warnings on side effects for medicine or truly something to heed?

A link to a xantrex instruction manual is included below. See page 51 of the PDF or 3-9 using the manual's pagination.

http://www.xantrex.com/web/id/238/docserve.asp

Basically, it warns: Inverter tends to produce arcs or sparks; do not install in compartments containing batteries or flammable materials or that require ignition-protected equipment (any space with fuel tanks, joints or fittings); not mount in an area subject to splashing water or bilge water; do install close to the battery compartment.
[/u]

 

[gw204]

Get beer. It comes in cans and is easy to open (unless you cut your fingernails too short).

Besides...your fishin' buddies will make fun of you if they find a blender onboard.

 

[jehines3]

:lol: :lol: :lol:

 

[BobP]

The inverter is not an ignition proof device. The inverter has a little fan in it, open armiture, among other things that can get very hot long before the heat sinks pull off the heat.

Beer, on the other hand, is intrinsically safe.

So it's not to be installed in I/O, I/B engine bays and the like, where fuel leaks can be more prevalent and the fireballing subsequant explosions.
I expect you know that your fuel lines / bulbs, etc., in any boat have to be maintained and you don't pull any off and allow spraying gas on your live inverter!

The idea is to keep the inverter off (as in dead) and save the six pack until after you finish fuel line work!

Our outboards are less of a concern, though a leaking fuel tank will allow fuel / vapor to enter bilge readily. I advocate as much as possible: ignition proof electrical equipment in bilge, then waterproof, lastely, open ventilated design.

If you happen to have an inverter on, in the outboard bilge - come up with a plan for when you smell gas one day.

One plan for non-fireman - grab as many beers as you can quickly, and abandon ship - to the shore, bring shovel, pail, and get ready for the Kodak moment.

 

[White Horses (Mike)]

Alright folks....

I did check out the gas powered blender at Cabelas - and I've gotta say "wow, that rocks."

Sadly, I need another low frequency use engine in my life like I need another boat payment. Also, the reviews weren't exactly glowing. Hard to beat for bragging rights though.

After all the research I decided that the inverter is really appropriate to the bigger boat with the cabin that I don't have yet. This boat should be kept more simple.

Wife has a birthday this month. I think she may get a 12v blender!

Thanks everyone. The pool of wisdom on this site is the bomb!

Mike

 

[a1mccray]

Inverter-- Blender

I know where you are coming from. A few years ago, ok like 15, I too needed electric power. A friend and I had a couple a girls on my boat which was beached along with some other boats. We were drinking our beers when we heard the familiar whine of a blender starting up. A guy a few boats away was making frozen drinks, getting all the chicks and all we had to offer was semi cold beer. Needless to say, the next weekend I had an inverter on board and frozen drinks were flowing.
To really impress, get a EU 2000 Honda generator, very portable and have a hair blower/dryer on board. Chicks like dry hair.