problem with seastar cylinder

peter devine

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Prior history of symptoms:
I had a small leak on the port side of the seal which wasnt too bad. I did some research and found no visual problems/dents on the rod and decided to order the kit to fix it. Installation was a @!$@ due to the bolts not wanting to budge. Now it leaks more than ever!!! I actually have to put a rag under the the leak so as not to create a slick. fortunately there is a splashwell on my Grady (272 sailfish with euro transom)so I can get it before it enters the water.
Question:
Is the seastar cylinder out of position? Does it need to be re- aligned after replacement? If so how? With engines running I go to rear and look at the seal, It seems to pulse?
Sorry to be so long winded but i figured a better response if everyone knew what i know. Which is not much at this point.
Thanks
 

BobP

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Should not have gotten worse

Is fluid coming out at shaft seal, or retainer- to- cylinder seal?

Did you nick shaft doing the job?

Does the retainer supposed to be replaced also, not just seal?
 

peter devine

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the part I ordered came with both ends for the cylinder. I replaced just the one that had been leaking and used the wrench that came with kit. I took off the old one and slid on the new one and tightened. I was very careful not to nick the shaft and the oil still leaks from the seal. there were also an assortment of o-rings too. The instruction made no mention of these. I assumed they were extra
 
A

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From experience, never bother rebuilding them. Buy a new one. Rebuilding is a waste of time. Once they leak, they are shot.
 

peter devine

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I just thought of something. I have been using poewer steering fluid for auto mobiles. Could this have any neg results.
 

CJBROWN

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peter devine said:
I just thought of something. I have been using poewer steering fluid for auto mobiles. Could this have any neg results.

Hmmm...there 'ya go. The SeaStar system uses hydraulic fluid, either the SeaStar product or what they recommend as a subtitute - tractor hydraulic or something.

Drain and flush the system, try refilling and bleed with the right fluid. If your seals aren't too soft from the wrong oil then it may work again. Otherwise you'll need all new seals. They should be okay, though, just get that oil out of there.
 

peter devine

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Thanks I'll try that. Anything before I spend the money on a new one. I will also use the other end cap to be sure there is no problem with the seals.
Will get back when finished and tested
 

BobP

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In those end caps, there is only one o ring or more than one ?
 

Walkers Edge

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When I asked about my barely leaking seastar cylinder I was told by more than one mechanic that if it works fine, keep it topped off (bleed & fill) and use it. When it becomes a problem the only real option is replacement.

How much do those cylinders run anyways? I know its somewhere in my future.
 

CJBROWN

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Them damn things are about $500.

Mine started leaking last year so ordered out a seal kit. Replace the one side, but it has a nick in the shaft so it still leaks from time to time.

It is not difficult to replace the seal, and the kit comes with the tool to remove it. If the shaft is in good shape I would definitely recommend replacing a leaky seal. It's a 20 minute job as long as the bolts aren't frozen.

EDIT: BTW, those fasteners on the works need to be removed every year and greased so they don't freeze. Seems to me I recall reading that in the seastar owners manual.
 

JUST-IN-TIME

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they all leak

they use shitty stainless trim rods

use the seastar fluid or mil spec fluid

you could use the lucas transmission stop leak, but it is a band-aid
 

Curmudgeon

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EDIT: BTW, those fasteners on the works need to be removed every year and greased so they don't freeze. Seems to me I recall reading that in the seastar owners manual.

Probably the most over-looked preventive maintenance procedure on outboard boats!

And I disagree with the premise 'they all leak'. Some do, some don't, some sooner, some later, at least in my experience ... :?