Question for Detailers

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PDX-Boats

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I have a 305 Express that needs a good polish and wax. My polisher is too big to fit some area like between the rails and the cockpit.
What do you use to polish small areas that are hard to reach with the normal polishers?
 
- I think Star Brite marine polish is a good option. Best wax I ever used, cleans great, took out many marks that I thought would never come out.
- do it by hand
 
Oliver, almost every post you make includes a link that goes to some "duck riding" website. I haven't actually clicked the link (just hovered over it) for fear of it being spam, but is this your own website? The other thing that that raises a question is that your answer does not relate to the question that the OP asked.

Boats, there are smaller polishers you can buy - and Google is your friend here - but a very good one is the Porter Cable 7424. Are you using a wool bonnet? Often that can get into some tighter areas just because the edge of it sticks out further. That said, if you're already using a smaller machine, then it's a possible a LARGER machine could work since the pad extends further away from the main body so it can slip underneath things. If none of this works, then the answer is to just do it by hand.
 
You can use a cordless drill with various pads for tight areas. If you are polishing/compounding you will need some finesse. Careful using any rotatory tool around those tight edges/corners as you can burn through quickly.
 
seasick said:
For tight areas, I use a thing called 'my hand' :) and a polishing pad.
Click to expand...
Exactly.
I use a Cyclo buffer and my hand ;)
The machine works fantastic but buffing and waxing a boat isn’t as quick as doing a car and my torn shoulders remind me of that the next day. Also if you want a miracle polish that lasts all season good luck, and if you want a machine that makes it effortless :rolleyes:
Detailers doing this everyday would have surely found that machine by now and there’s a reason they charge what they do. ;)
As for wax I use Meguiars carnuba synthetic blend. Anything is better than nothing and everything will need to be redone at some point in the season.
Don’t overthink it, just have at it.
Note though, I bought a cheap buffer first from Home Depot, and that’s what I got :(
Pay up and get a better buffer that will save you some work, that much is true.
 
blindmullet said:
You can use a cordless drill with various pads for tight areas. If you are polishing/compounding you will need some finesse. Careful using any rotatory tool around those tight edges/corners as you can burn through quickly.
Click to expand...

Finesse indeed. I did the cordless drill thing and had two problems. The edge of the round brush cut into my cushions (my fault obviously but it happened really fast) and the water got into the drill and toasted the switch.
 
luckydude said:
Finesse indeed. I did the cordless drill thing and had two problems. The edge of the round brush cut into my cushions (my fault obviously but it happened really fast) and the water got into the drill and toasted the switch.
Click to expand...
No no no !
A drill spins way too fast and will cause damage.
If you new with it and serious about it look into the Cyclo buffer.
It works great and you can not hurt the finish. It ain’t cheap though. $350-$400 by the time you buy the pads you need. What’s a detailer charge ? Pretty sure you will have broke even on the second use minus your labor. But you’ll be really happy with it.
 
I did mention that you can spend more on a set of good pads than on the machine. To do a good job, you need at least two of each type. One advantage of the Presta pad kit is that it uses a spindle adapter that screws onto the buffer shaft and also has a snap in connector for the pads. The hole on the pad goes all the way through the pad and the pads are double sided. In effect two pads in one. When one side clogs up. you pop it off and flip it over. Depending on what you are doing, and the steps, you may need cutting pads, compound/ polishing pads, waxing pads and final polishing.

And remember Grasshopper, Wax on - Wax off
 
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Hmmm.... I Googled for a "detail monkey" but apparently they were shut down by PETA.
Thanks for all the great suggestions. I'll look into the cyclo thingie or do as some suggested and use some Norwegian Stream.
I appreciate all the replies!
 
seasick said:
I did mention that you can spend more on a set of good pads than on the machine. To do a good job, you need at least two of each type. One advantage of the Presta pad kit is that it uses a spindle adapter that screws onto the buffer shaft and also has a snap in connector for the pads. The hole on the pad goes all the way through the pad and the pads are double sided. In effect two pads in one. When one side clogs up. you pop it off and flip it over. Depending on what you are doing, and the steps, you may need cutting pads, compound/ polishing pads, waxing pads and final polishing.

And remember Grasshopper, Wax on - Wax off
Click to expand...
I started with the reversible snap on pads but switched to the Cyclo brand pads that attach with Velcro.
The Velcro pads seem to last longer and they aren’t bad if you shop around. The last batch I bought on amazon.
The most expensive part I found is the compound. I use 3M finishing compound. You can get the “marine” version of it and it’s more expensive but I can’t see a difference other than the price.
It’s the best compound but you’d think it was made with gold.
If your dealing with a very neglected chalky finish hit it with comet and a wet brush first, then hit it with the machine. You’ll waste a lot less compound that way.
 
I have found that using a buffer extension and a small 3" backing plate and pad works well for getting into tight spaces. I bought both from autogeek. The screw right into my el cheapo harbor freight variable speed buffer. This combo works great to get the sides of the house between the bow rail on my 305. I also have a small dremal cordless scrubber which will use the same smaller pads and can get into tighter spaces.
 
seasick said:
And remember Grasshopper, Wax on - Wax off
Click to expand...

Come on!?!? Now you've gone ahead and mixed lines from the TV show Kung Fu with the movie Karate Kid. Unthinkable!

and in response to the OP, I'd probably do those areas by hand.
 
Toothpick 10 said:
Come on!?!? Now you've gone ahead and mixed lines from the TV show Kung Fu with the movie Karate Kid. Unthinkable!

and in response to the OP, I'd probably do those areas by hand.
Click to expand...
My brain is fogged these days:)
Actually I was thinking about Kung Foo and I always likened it to the Karate Kid for some reason.

Nevertheless, good catch, Grasshopper
 
Lt.Mike said:
No no no !
A drill spins way too fast and will cause damage.
If you new with it and serious about it look into the Cyclo buffer.
It works great and you can not hurt the finish. It ain’t cheap though. $350-$400 by the time you buy the pads you need. What’s a detailer charge ? Pretty sure you will have broke even on the second use minus your labor. But you’ll be really happy with it.
Click to expand...

A variable speed drill is used on an inside radius and tight spots by many detailers. The correct speed/pad is needed with ALL detailing tools.
 
I have a Shine Mate EP803 rotary polisher with 1”, 2” and 3” backing plates and 2 different length extensions. Very little hand polishing needed.
 
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