Rear deck section on 2004 Grady White Express "How to Secure"

RockLobsterBOS

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Duxbury, Ma
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Express 330
Hi
The aft deck plate on my 33 Express (the one with the drop-down hatch for access to generator and bilge) has never been secured since I purchased the boat.
The other day I went to see what I needed to do and size of screw, and it looks like it does not take screws. The holes under the deck plate have long rubber gromets.
They extend down about 2" and there is nowhere for a screw to bite. Below is the location of the hatch marked by the red hashs

Does anyone knowrear deack hatch.png how to secure this hatch plate ?
 
Just a thought:
Can you remove the lid? The rubber grommets might have suds that are pushed into them when the lid is attached. Maybe the idea is that when you pull the gene set cover down, you alo can pull the whole assemble up to access the area below. Just a guess and I am probably wrong.
 
Just a thought:
Can you remove the lid? The rubber grommets might have suds that are pushed into them when the lid is attached. Maybe the idea is that when you pull the gene set cover down, you alo can pull the whole assemble up to access the area below. Just a guess and I am probably wrong.
I can remove the plate entirely so you are right pull the cover down and lift the plate out to reach Genset strainers ect... They have nothing inside. I am not sure what suds is perhaps studs?, They are just rubber tubes. Its very odd.
 
This sort of thing is right up my alley.

If you post some pictures, I and others could come up with some ideas.
 
This sort of thing is right up my alley.

If you post some pictures, I and others could come up with some ideas.
 

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Image 1247 is what the top of the deck plate looks like. Image 1242 is the rubber boot coming from screw hole in middle of pic.
Image 1240 is the top of the rubber grommet seen horribly in 1242. Image 1249 is the corner of the deck plate from underneath
I did a more detailed look today and I still so not see a fastener working.
 

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1 - I would 5200 in some stainless t-nuts underneath the "mounting flange" on the deck that aline with the exiting holes on the hatch.
2 - I would clean the perimiter edge of the opeing and the peremiter edge of the hatch really well.
3 - I would screw down the hatch with quality stainless screws with removeable thread-lock on the threads.
4 - I would use almond colored GE caulk to seal the groove.
If you go this route, I will look up the number of the caulk for you.
 
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It's kinda hard to make sense of the pictures, but it appears to be, like Skunk said, rubber well nuts. And there are holes in the deck hatch that align with the well nuts? Wouildn't it just screw down? If the well nuts are threaded, use machine screws... if the well nuts are not threaded, use screws. This "appears" to be very simple - what am I missing?
 
It's kinda hard to make sense of the pictures, but it appears to be, like Skunk said, rubber well nuts. And there are holes in the deck hatch that align with the well nuts? Wouildn't it just screw down? If the well nuts are threaded, use machine screws... if the well nuts are not threaded, use screws. This "appears" to be very simple - what am I missing?
Sorry for the pics they were taken in a hurry. I do not see any threads inside the rubber grommets. I do not think you are missing anything to be honest, I am.
I have never seen this style fastener before.
What size screw diameter would be recommended to secure the hatch? I am assuming that they need to be 3" in length to go through the deck plate and the
tube of the grommet as the grommet looks to be two inches in length.
 
1 - I would 5200 in some stainless t-nuts underneath the "mounting flange" on the deck that aline with the exiting holes on the hatch.
2 - I would clean the perimiter edge of the opeing and the peremiter edge of the hatch really well.
3 - I would screw down the hatch with quality stainless screws with removeable thread-lock on the threads.
4 - I would use almond colored GE caulk to seal the groove.
If you go this route, I will look up the number of the caulk for you.
@JJF I like your plan however, the holes are filled with long tubular grommets. I would have to set the nut on the rubber, and I cannot reach
the three that are forward of the hatch. They are behind the bulkhead.
Thanks though great suggestion. GE II Almond is the caulk color of choice.
 
Sorry for the pics they were taken in a hurry. I do not see any threads inside the rubber grommets. I do not think you are missing anything to be honest, I am.
I have never seen this style fastener before.
What size screw diameter would be recommended to secure the hatch? I am assuming that they need to be 3" in length to go through the deck plate and the
tube of the grommet as the grommet looks to be two inches in length.
Oh, no worries. Looks like you figured out the length easily enough - although that grommet looks pretty long so you don't need to go through the whole thing. As for the diameter of the screw... easiest thing to do is to just try a few different sized screws. Look for something that bites slightly firm - but not so much that it ends up just twisting the rubber grommet. Try whatever you laying around till you find something and then take that to the hardware store to get the right length.
 
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It's kinda hard to make sense of the pictures, but it appears to be, like Skunk said, rubber well nuts. And there are holes in the deck hatch that align with the well nuts? Wouildn't it just screw down? If the well nuts are threaded, use machine screws... if the well nuts are not threaded, use screws. This "appears" to be very simple - what am I missing?
The well nuts are inserted in the deck below the hatch The well nuts are threaded and will expand when the threaded screws are tightened, securing the deck hatch. Specialty hardware stores sell the well nuts, as well as Amazon. Almond colored silicone (GE 100% Supreme Silicone for Windows and Doors) should then be used to seal the deck hatch perimeter.
 
On my boat, there are screws around the interior perimeter of the floor hatch. (not on the end with the hinge) The grommets you show under the hatch are drain holes, not for screws.

Other people have used the screws, and laid down a bunch of sealant in the seams to keep water out of it.
 
mine just takes the same screws as the rest of the deck panels. nothing special
 
On my boat, there are screws around the interior perimeter of the floor hatch. (not on the end with the hinge) The grommets you show under the hatch are drain holes, not for screws.

Other people have used the screws, and laid down a bunch of sealant in the seams to keep water out of it.
Hi
I spoke to Grady, and the fuel lid is screwed to the deck. The last hatch is not. This is because the last panel is lifted up for maintenance annually.
They could not tell me the part numbers nor the size of the screw, but they do not screw into the deck. There are well grommets there for sure.
The screw holes align on the deck lid to the rubber style grommets so drains they are not.
The drains are on each corner.
Thanks
 
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Thank you to everyone who responded it’s mostly appreciated for those of you who are interested It’s a one and 1/8 inch well nut that takes a 10 x 32 fine thread stainless screw 3” in length found some on Napa for nine bucks for three gonna give it a try. Send a pic later again thank you everyone
 
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Thank you to everyone who responded it’s mostly appreciated for those of you who are interested It’s a one and 1/8 inch well nut that takes a 10 x 32 fine thread stainless screw 3” in length found some on Napa for nine bucks for three gonna give it a try. Send a pic later again thank you everyone
Only "mostly appreciated"? Geesh :p :)

Local hardware stores carry SS screws.

Glad to see it's working out for you.