Refurbishing Cockpit Bolster Pads

abielecki

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2010
Messages
74
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Dustydog said:
I have 25' Sailfish and the previous owner removed the bolsters and replaced with PVC trim board. I'm looking at making the coaming pads myself and have a few questions:

- It appears many use the Seaquest Pleated Chalk Vinyl which comes in 54" widths. The starboard and port side pads will be a little over 60". How you handle a joint?

- What thickness of foam should I use

Hi Dustydog - My understanding is that the "welds" on the Seaquest Pleated Vinyl material are 54" long meaning that you can have a 60"+ long bolster with no seams that in effect could be up to 54" tall/high! (minus the amount of material needed to fold over the foam and behind the backer board) of course your bolster will be 5" or 6" tall so you can get several cuts out of 2 running length yards of material.

As for foam, P240 MR (http://www.garysupholstery.com/marineup ... yfoam.html) is what is most commonly used, 2"-3" thick (2" being most common).

I too am looking to build coaming bolsters for my 1995 Grady Islander from scratch and am trying to figure out what material to use for backing boars, i.e marine ply, pressure treated ply-painted, azek plastic trim boards, etc.

Andrew
(908) 963-1997
 

1998sailfish

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2011
Messages
200
Reaction score
3
Points
16
Location
Clinton, CT.
The seam welds on sea quest run in the direction of the lengthy of the roll. The longest bolster you could fabricate is 53" assuming you are rebuilding to match the originals with the welding and soils vinyl ends.
 

1998sailfish

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 28, 2011
Messages
200
Reaction score
3
Points
16
Location
Clinton, CT.
Please pardon the "smart phone" spelling corrections! That should have said "welting and solid vinyl"
You will need to seam for anything longer.

Just remember.....a "walking foot" sewing machine is key..
 

Dustydog

Member
Joined
Jan 8, 2012
Messages
7
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Thanks guys that makes sense. I tested staples on the pvc trim and seemed to work great.
 

abielecki

Well-Known Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2010
Messages
74
Reaction score
2
Points
8
Hi Everyone - I stumbled onto these guys, they have good pricing on the Seaquest products and you can buy the Welt'ing by the yard (don't have to buy the whole 50yd spool).

I just ordered enough material to do two 6' bolsters and it cost me $150 with material left over (staples not included).

http://www.miamicorp.com/products/VINYL ... OLLEC.aspx

Andrew
908.963.1997

PS: In speaking with one of the guys there, with the roll of the pleated material standing upright, the welds run vertically, (upright) therefore if your welds run vertically on your bolster (once installed) then you can build any length bolster without any seams.

Part Number: PSP025
Description: SEAQUEST QUILT SEA WHITE
Seaquest Quilted Vinyl - Sea White
Width: 54"
Weight: 32 oz weight / Linear Yard
Roll Size: 15 yards
Catalog Page:
Availability: 47 YD in Stock
Quantity:
Price: $34.30/YD
 

Jambo

Active Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2014
Messages
30
Reaction score
1
Points
8
Age
69
I am re-covering my cowling bolster pads this winter. (2005 G-W 225 Tournament) I will remove the bolsters from the boat and take my time with this project. (Please don't flame me about winter all you gleeful owners south of the Mason-Dixon line) I had planned to remove the faded and damaged vinyl, BUT it seems to me I could simple cover OVER the existing vinyl and breathable mesh. Does anyone have advice on this? I could go either way. Maybe taking the old skin off will give me a pattern for cutting the new vinyl and that is reason enough to justify removal.
Thanks,
Chris L
 

Fishtales

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
7,584
Reaction score
1,179
Points
113
You could do that , but it might be a bit too thick to slide over the mounting points. I'd want to remove the fabric so you can inspect the foam under it. It may need to be replaced and you'll never know if you cover over it.
 

Jambo

Active Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2014
Messages
30
Reaction score
1
Points
8
Age
69
Has anyone used Copycat Upholstery Inc. 296 Silverado St, Tavares, FL. Archie (from CopyCat) has a business that will reproduce the vinyl as close to original as possible. I would uninstall my bolsters, seats, etc, photo everything, remove the vinyl carefully identifying each piece, send to CopyCat where they cut and stitch identical replacements with new material (this include the GW logo embroidered if needed). They ship back and I reassemble using the original backing board and padding. For me, the challenge for making new vinyl is the curves and corners.
Any experience or insight into CopyCat? If not, I will try them after the summer boating season and let you know.
Thanks.
 

DennisG01

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Sep 1, 2013
Messages
6,810
Reaction score
1,205
Points
113
Location
Allentown, PA & Friendship, ME
Model
Offshore
Jambo said:
Has anyone used Copycat Upholstery Inc. 296 Silverado St, Tavares, FL. Archie (from CopyCat) has a business that will reproduce the vinyl as close to original as possible. I would uninstall my bolsters, seats, etc, photo everything, remove the vinyl carefully identifying each piece, send to CopyCat where they cut and stitch identical replacements with new material (this include the GW logo embroidered if needed). They ship back and I reassemble using the original backing board and padding. For me, the challenge for making new vinyl is the curves and corners.
Any experience or insight into CopyCat? If not, I will try them after the summer boating season and let you know.
Thanks.

I have not, but what you describe sounds like pretty much any upholsterer out there (although some will only do it with the seats present). Some don't have the ability to do logos, but there are easy ways to get that done, too. However, in my opinion, I'd much rather have the upholsterer be working directly on my seats. That way you're guaranteed that the fit will be proper. You also get to work with a local company this way, as well.
 

BSartist

Member
Joined
May 18, 2005
Messages
9
Reaction score
0
Points
1
Location
Westchester, NY
Website
bsartist.com
This winter I refurbished the cockpit bolster pads (replaced the covering) on my 1993 Grady White 226 Seafarer. After 13 years the vinyl material had become discolored cracked and damaged. I keep the boat in excellent condition and this was the most worn looking part of the boat.

I first removed the pads from the boat by removing the wing nuts and washers behind the wall by reaching up from under and behind the pads. The area is pretty tight and although the wing nuts were on tight all but three unscrewed easily. The three that were difficult to remove I was able to get off first spraying the screw with WD-40 and then by holding the screw with a pair of pliers (careful not to damage the threads) and getting the wing nut loose with channel locks. (there is not a lot of room to work back there especially with the rear pads).

By searching the internet I was able to find the exact same material (Chalk colored Seaquest® Roll ´N Pleat Marine Vinyl) from a number of suppliers. FABRIC WAREHOUSE http://fabricwarehouse.com/marine/seaquest.htm
had the best price but they sell it in yard lengths only and I needed a little over 2 yards (so I had some extra in case I screwed up) and Stainless Steel staples from Beacon Fabric http://www.beaconfabric.com/vindex.html?cat79.htm.

(hint: keep one of the bolster pads together to use as a guide when installing the new material)

Next I removed the old covering by removing every staple that attached the vinyl to the back of the board with a flat head screwdriver. I then inspected the foam (which was fine) and the wood. The wood had some rot in one side board where there was a hole in the covering. This made the board week and in danger of breaking in two with all of the handling I would be doing during the repair. I fixed this by glueing a couple of pieces of thin wood shim to the board over the hole. This both covered the hole and gave the board more support.

The flat backing vinyl was still in good shape so I just cleaned and reused it.

I unrolled the new material and layed the old covering over it and traced the outline onto the new material. It was very easy to cut the new material with a pair of good heavy duty sissors. I layed the new material face down on a long table covered with a cloth and placed the foam pad and then the board on top. I folded the covering around the board and tacked it on to the board with the new staples. (I used a Stanley electric staple gun for this. It cost about $30 at home depot. It would have been impossible with a hand staple gun). I placed the backing covering on top board and the folded corner of the new material. (The hardest part was getting the corner folds right. This took a couple of trys and some additional slits to the corner of the new material. This is why I recommend keeping one of the bolester pads together to see how the corner is folded).

I put twice as many staples as was origional on the pads but still only used 1 box of staples.

When I had finished all four pieces (two sides and two back pieces) I would say I put about 10 to 12 hours total into the project but after reinstalling the pads onto the boat they look like they were ordered directly from the factory.

I hope this post helps anyone thinking about recovering the bolster pads on their boat.

If you have any questions I will be glad to help.
I now this is an old post but…. Did you end up with horizontal pleats instead of vertical pleats?

thanks.
 

glacierbaze

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jul 6, 2012
Messages
2,344
Reaction score
599
Points
113
Age
75
Location
Chapel Hill and Pine Knoll Shores, NC
Model
Seafarer
I have never seen anyone end up with horizontal pleats, please post a picture if you do! Pleats running the width of the bolt, instead of the length, became readily available quite a while ago.

Yes, this is an old thread, but after reading some of the linked articles, I want to point out one thing for anyone sewing welting for the first time. You don’t have to hold the two pieces of material, and the welting, trying to keep them all lined up while you sew. You simply sew the tape on the welting to the edge of one of the pieces of vinyl material, then you just match up the edges and run a welting foot down the welt for the final stitch.
When I am sewing things together, particularly a new pattern, I like to use long stitches for the first run, and see that everything lines up. It makes it a lot easier, and does less damage to the vinyl, if you have to cut the seam and re-stitch it. Then I shorten the stitch, and run over the seam again.