REMOVING BRACKET BRASS DRAIN PLUG...

[NIGHTIDES]

I never knew that Grady used brass plugs in their brackets .. that is until yesterday when I grinded all the paint off a bracket to repaint it. Tried to remove it w/ the correct size Allen key but that did not happen. Thought the prior owner jury rigged it this way. I am use to the plastic plugs /w the 'O' ring setup.

Aside from heat which will destroy the new paint that is now being applied, has anybody drilled and tapped one of these things out? Any tap size info and or tips?

Thanks.

 

[catch22]

Standard garboard drain plug should be 1/2" pipe thread, (npt).

Original drain plug for the grady bracket should have been aluminum, (atleast the older ones were).

Get yourself a Dremel tool, with the thin cutting disc. Cut a slot across the face and use a large slotted screw driver. Still might need to use heat.

I've used the brass/bronze drain plugs in the bracket, (with teflon tape) and never had any problems.

 

[BobP]

Use alum. I hear Wally World sells them.

Galvanic action is not possible with like metals.

 

[BobP]

You can drill a hole in the center, and tap it for a smaller drain plug, use same material as plug now for new plug.

!/4 inch plug will be fine.

 

[NIGHTIDES]

Existing plug looks to be 1/4" bronze/brass that is 'removable' w/ an allen wrench. I ended up bending / twisting around the allen key I was using; I thought the plug was backing out until I looked at the key itself.

Heat I know will break that salt bond. I had to heat the 6 screws in the top inspection plate of the bracket to get them out. But being just past the 2nd coat of primer, heat can not be an option; bracket is looking too good for me to put a torch to it.

Bracket is currently is very dry. Just wanted to keep the ability to drain out if/when she gets water in there. Also it is foam filled. Something I thought Grady never did.

Will finish the bracket top coating then will go at the plug.

 

[richie rich]

if you don/t want to use heat, you got to drill it out...you have a perfect starter hole now that you stripped it....use several sizes stepping up each time until you get close to the threads...by that time the side wall of the brass will be so thin you can chip it out of the hole with a hammer and flat screw driver or small chisel or even use a pipe tap or extractor bit to clean it out but be really careful because if that breaks in there its hard as nails.....it will be a pain in the butt !....Bobs idea of drilling and tapping for a smaller hole is another good option but this time you will need another brass/bronze plug to match the metal of the newly tapped hole. Use teflon paste for easy removal later on. Remember to use a pipe thread tap.

if you can, use heat

 

[Little Buddy]

If you decide to drill, you may consider using a left handed drill bit. Sometimes you get lucky and the part unthreads itself while drilling.

 

[ElyseM]

the plug on my 2002 232 was synthetic. maybe check with gw and see if you can get them for use in your year boat. if you have to drill it out, might as well put in one that won't corrode. it is a two piece plug. the inside is the female threaded piece and the outside is the male with an "O" ring around it.

 

[NIGHTIDES]

If you decide to drill, you may consider using a left handed drill bit. Sometimes you get lucky and the part unthreads itself while drilling.

Will try rapping it with a hammer first and get another allen key in there.
Now that I know Grady made them this way I will give it a bit more abuse. Then I will go the left hand screw route and keep going up in size till it gets close to the threads.

But first ..the painting continues...

 

[BobP]

Didn't know they are using an allen key plug, the plugs are original on my drive and the same shape as bilge transom plugs with the square head.
Larger size than 1/4 inch. probably 1/2 inch or larger.

Salt will soften with heat, galvanic bonding is another story.

 

[NIGHTIDES]

Since my local marine shop recommended the wrong paint for the underwater portion of the bracket w/ the stuck plug, I had to strip it down to bare metal for the second time and re-coat.

The good news is that gave me a shot to gets some heat on that stuck plug. Heated it up and gave it some firm raps w/ a hammer then heated it up some more. With Allen key in place and some shoulder, the plug came out on the first try.

Plug by the way looks like chromed over bronze and it measures 1/2".

Teflon tape will be used when it goes back in there. Not one drop of h20 came out.

 

[richie rich]

chromed over bronze? that can't be stock.....I would swtich to another material.....good to hear no water in there....good seals all around.