BobP said:If the boat is on a trailer, you could leave the squeeze bulb, disconnect the motor side of squeeze bulb, add a length of hose long enough to get to grade, then let the siphon effect take the fuel down to your containers once you get it going with the squeeze bulb.
Crank up the bow high since fuel pickups are at rear of tank.
You are correct but there can be a catch. Depending on the tank desigh=n and the angle of the boat, a partially filled tank can still read full on the guage since the fuel is shifted to the back. You have to unload enougt fuel to be sure that when you remove the sender cover, fuel doesn't flow outSilverLining said:I'm missing something here. If the purpose of the exercise is to remove water from the tank, why drain the tank? The water is on the bottom of the tank. If you can access the top of the tank via the fuel sender, use a length of copper tubing connceted to a hose to a primer bulb to a hose into a gallon jug and pull the water off from the very bottom of the tank. Repeat until no more water is brought into the jug. Any residual water can then be easily handled by the Racors. Doing it this way avoids any discussion of siphons, fuel pick-up tube heights, etc.
This works well with both water and any separated liquids(since both are substantially heavier than gasoline.
After removing the water, pour in some additives and use that gasoline.
Danmac said:ive got a friend that removed a filled tank on his sailfish using a small air compressor, he put the hose end into the fill hose blocked off the area surrounding it with rags, he than blocked off the vent and disconected
the fuel line from the motor. He than put the end of the line in five gallon gas jugs . he than turned on the compressor filling his fuel tank with air forcing the fuel to follow the path of least resistant said it took him no time to drain his fuel out. "He said it worked like a charm" id be hesitant to try this on a boat with older fuel tanks though.
