Removing hot water heater

[Diad]

I’m planning to remove the hot water heater from my 265X because I never use it and I’m going to put the batteries for a trolling motor there. My question is should I just cap the water lines or connect them? I’m not sure if fresh water always goes through the heater from port side to get to starboard side. We do use the rigging sink on the starboard side and I know the holding tank is on the port side.

Also, I plan to use the AC power that is there too for the charger.
Thanks!

 

[DennisG01]

Only hot water comes out of the heater - no cold water goes through the heater and then to the stbd side. Cold water lines will split before the heater. Cap or connect the c/h lines... doesn't matter, both ways will work.

Do you have an OB or an I/O? There may be an extra step if I/O.

 

[Diad]

I have OB’s. Thank you for your reply

 

[SkunkBoat]

You would cap the cold IN. You would not connect the cold IN to the hot OUT.
There is no real need to cap the hot. The faucets have separate hot and cold valves so you will not get cold flowing out of hot lines.
If you had a single hot/cold blend valve that would be a problem..

I replaced the FW tank and cold FW tubing to head and cockpit sink. Removed the cabin faucet. No water heater.
https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/265-not-so-fresh-water-tank.37764/

FYI, the water heater is its own circiut and is not protected by the GFCI in the head that is feeding the other outlets.
You should install a new GFCI outlet.

I strongly recommend replacing ALL outlets because they are 20+ year old corroded crap.

I used the refrigerator space for my trolling motor battery because I feel it has more air flow and is easier to access.
You will need a Lithium charger and it generates a lot of heat.


https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/265x-with-a-bow-mount-trolling-motor.39685/
https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/galvanic-isolator-replacement.37463/

 

[Diad]

You would cap the cold IN. You would not connect the cold IN to the hot OUT.
There is no real need to cap the hot. The faucets have separate hot and cold valves so you will not get cold flowing out of hot lines.
If you had a single hot/cold blend valve that would be a problem..

I replaced the FW tank and cold FW tubing to head and cockpit sink. Removed the cabin faucet. No water heater.
https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/265-not-so-fresh-water-tank.37764/

FYI, the water heater is its own circiut and is not protected by the GFCI in the head that is feeding the other outlets.
You should install a new GFCI outlet.

I strongly recommend replacing ALL outlets because they are 20+ year old corroded crap.

I used the refrigerator space for my trolling motor battery because I feel it has more air flow and is easier to access.
You will need a Lithium charger and it generates a lot of heat.


https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/265x-with-a-bow-mount-trolling-motor.39685/
https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/galvanic-isolator-replacement.37463/

 

[Diad]

Yeah, I plan to put a gfci outlet on the hot water heater circuit for the new charger. I have not used any of the outlets so…

 

[DennisG01]

Yeah, I plan to put a gfci outlet on the hot water heater circuit for the new charger. I have not used any of the outlets so…

No! Don't do that. An outlet, of any kind, should never be installed in a bilge of a gasoline powered boat. Any connections down there must be hardwired. Bad, bad, bad idea

And, make sure the charger is properly rated as ignition protected, as well.

 

[Diad]

No! Don't do that. An outlet, of any kind, should never be installed in a bilge of a gasoline powered boat. Any connections down there must be hardwired. Bad, bad, bad idea

And, make sure the charger is properly rated as ignition protected, as well.

Got it. I’ll cut off the charger plug and wire it to the hot water heater circuit. I plan to use the ac panel breaker that was to the hot water heater. Is that okay? Thanks!!

 

[DennisG01]

Yes, that should work. Just make sure your connections are tight and won't vibrate around over time. The main goal is here is to NOT make a spark in a gas bilge

Minor point... but you'll likely void any warranty by cutting the plug off.

Is the charger you've decided on rated IP and also for use in wet/humid environments? GW's aren't usually known for having dry bilges.

Check the breaker - make sure it's sized appropriately. Given it's for the HWH, it might be oversized, which is not good. Maybe need to replace it.

 

[Diad]

Yes, that should work. Just make sure your connections are tight and won't vibrate around over time. The main goal is here is to NOT make a spark in a gas bilge

Minor point... but you'll likely void any warranty by cutting the plug off.

Is the charger you've decided on rated IP and also for use in wet/humid environments? GW's aren't usually known for having dry bilges.

Check the breaker - make sure it's sized appropriately. Given it's for the HWH, it might be oversized, which is not good. Maybe need to replace it.

Yes, this is a charger battery 36v 100Ah combo sold on Amazon. IP 65. Just following Skunks lead from his trolling motor thread. My owners manual says the hot water heater breaker is 15A and the charger suggests 12A max current input, so I’ll switch out the breaker. Not sure that they have 12A breakers so will probably go down to 10A. This will all be under the V birth where the hot water heater was so it’s relatively dry versus the actual bilge in the stern.

Hopefully, all the parts arrive this week so that I can started with the project!

 

[DennisG01]

Oh, I didn't realize this wasn't in the bilge. If the area is not connected in any way to the bilge where gas fumes could then exist, disregard some of my comments. I think you're fine with the 15amp - that's close enough as makes no difference. Besides, that's better than going to 10amp.

Although it's a moot point now, given the location... for clarity, I was referring to ignition protection (IP) above as it wasn't clear if your charger was rated such.