Removing Steering Wheel

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Tucker

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Gents,
I need a steering ball. Problem is the nice ones are really expensive. I can get one of those hot-looking steering wheels with the ball built in for just a few dollars more. Then I'll be as cool as the Regulators & Yellowfins! What's the procedure for removing the destroyer wheel?
 
At least for mine: remove center cover, remove nut, pull wheel.
 
Ok Grog, sounds too easy. At least you gotta remove nut and soak threads overnight with PB Blaster right?? Assuming you've done this, how new is your boat. With my luck I'll pull the stearing assembly out of the console!! I thought for sure I'd need a wheel puller
 
Tucker said:
Ok Grog, sounds too easy. At least you gotta remove nut and soak threads overnight with PB Blaster right?? Assuming you've done this, how new is your boat. With my luck I'll pull the stearing assembly out of the console!! I thought for sure I'd need a wheel puller
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Tucker,
The nut should loosen fairly easily. The problem is going to be freeing up the wheel from the shaft. Back off the nut, but leave it on the shaft a couple of threads. Go find a buddy, offer him a beer. While he pulls on the wheel, take a short length of 2 X 4 and pound on it on the nut. This will break the wheel free. The nut keeps your buddy from ending up at the transom when the wheel breaks free...
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Thats nuts.
Use a wheel puller and as mentioned keep the nut on until the connection loosens..
If you do it the other way, keep your dentist's number handy when you knock out your teeth
 
http://www.amazon.com/Vision-Stainless- ... B0009PXC42

This is close to the stock GW wheel except it has the integrated ball. It is stainless. It is made in China not USA like Edson, thus the price difference. Fine wheel and I'm sure if you do a search on the web, you'll find it cheaper. Get either the 13 or 15.

As stated, remove the nut and encourage it a bit with a rubber mallet. It should come off fairly easily. Very quick upgrade.
 
btw it the manufacturer is Schmitt.
 
I pulled the wheel on a 2001 208 and it didn't come off easily. Even with a puller it was a bear to loosen. Yeah the nut loosens easily but the wheel was tight to the spindle. It took a lot of tension with the puller and rapping with a hammer to free it.
 
Seasick,
I've changed out a thousand, yes, I said a thousand (give or take a few) wheels in my years of boat building...my method works, and it's not NUTS!

So far, no dentist bills not chriropractor bills involved...
1sm088doubleup.gif
 
seabob4 said:
Seasick,
I've changed out a thousand, yes, I said a thousand (give or take a few) wheels in my years of boat building...my method works, and it's not NUTS!

So far, no dentist bills not chriropractor bills involved...
1sm088doubleup.gif
Click to expand...

The way I figure, a thousand wheels pulls at minimum of one beer per pull equals 41 cases of beer. You should have bought a wheel puller, you would be ahead of the game:)
 
My local autozone will rent a wheel puller for about $10.

I have the Schmitt wheel...its tough to tell it from the Edson....

One thought, make sure you figure out where "center" is and install the wheel so the ball is not at groin level when you are standing up running the boat. One good wave and you will understand why :shock:
 
Got the Schmidt wheel coming, great tip! Also trying Seabob's idea to remove the wheel, how big a hammer? 22 oz carpenders hammer? ball pien hammer? 3-Lb hammer? a mall?
 
Just a thought, the stock destroyer wheel has a cone shape on the bottom that is flush with the steering bezel. Am I going to see the steering shaft with this Schmidt wheel? The photo's in the ad don't show the bottom of the wheel
 
Tucker said:
Got the Schmidt wheel coming, great tip! Also trying Seabob's idea to remove the wheel, how big a hammer? 22 oz carpenders hammer? ball pien hammer? 3-Lb hammer? a mall?
Click to expand...

You don't need a big hammer. It's the vibration that breaks the wheel's "death grip" on the shaft...
 
Make sure you rap the nut face square on, not the threaded end so make the nut exend a bit off the threads first. Pull up on wheel evenly while rapping it.

Don't loose the woodrift key, been there, done that.
It was not tight like the Yamaha pump ones.

If you have hydraulic steering, doesn' matter where you place spokes since wheel will reorient itself as it slips, not so with direct geared helms. That's why symetrical wheels are way to go with Hydraulic., as this one.

I've had this wheel for some time, didn't care for ball so I dremel saw cut it off and polished smooth remainder of welded stud.
This is the same wheel Grady used, but they get it w/o the ball.

Suggest to litely coat tapered fit with some light grease like white grease so if you ever have to take it off, no problem.

I like the finger grips on bottom of rim, and massive stainless nut !
Use some tape over it to tighten so it doesn't get scratched.
 
Thanks Guys, Bob how did the bezel below the stock destroyer wheel line up with the new wheel? Is there much of the steering shaft exposed? The stock wheel resesses slightly inside the the bezel on my boat making for a perfect fit.
 
There is no cap and no recess, the big nut in the photo is it.
As far as skirting at the bottom, don't recall.

Looks perfect to me, go to Grady website and browse the catalog of all boats, you will see the wheel and how it looks on bridge photos.

Had it on my boat for many years now, wouldn't go back. I think it's fatter and the finger grips do it for me. The edge of the spokes is rather sharp should you slip, unlike destroyer wheel where it's rounded. So can't use spokes to turn.

The only problem I had, couldn't find one for sale without spinner ball, didn't really want one, clips me in the legs when standing since wheel is mostly vertical. If wheel was horizontal like on some CCs, it would make sense to me.

Grady may have made an agreement with vendor not to sell the non-spinner version, retail. I'm sure wheel price at the dealer would have been tripple what I paid.

Buy it and return it if not to your liking. I do a lot of returns!
 
Actually Bob, the wheel is availabe with or without the ball. I thought the big nut was decorative with the real nut under it. You've used this method to remove the wheel? Does it usually come off after the first rap? Since everything is mounted in fiberglass, I'm real tight a$$ed about banging on anything.
 
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