Removing the cheap look from my grady.

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mjtyszki

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I am looking to modernize my 1990 Offshore. I may leave the teak doors since they are actual wood but all of the faux wood trim has to go. I was hoping that someone has done a similar project on their boat and would know where I could look for the trim, toe rails, gauge panel, and fuse panel.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Seen lots of photos from others that have replaced wooden trim with starboard themselves. This does require some knowledge of woodworking and tools to fabricate the pieces. You may do a search on Great Grady to find photos of upgrades - I know I've seen them in the past.

If you aren't comfortable tackling the fabrication yourself take a look at this link:

http://finaddictmarine.com/_wsn/page7.html
 
BobP Posted: May Fri 22, 2009 11:19 am Post subject:

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Just about everything is fake today.
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True, but sometimes fake looks better :lol:
 
I like wood for it's grain and only in trim details, but don't like maitenance of wood like teak, and not large panels of formica'd wood grain like my 1988 204C had.

I prefer fake wood grain for trim over starboard anyday, also because seafoam starboard is close to the color of Grady fiberglass which no longer creates a visual contrast on a trim line.

To each their own.
 
BobP said:
I like wood for it's grain and only in trim details, but don't like maitenance of wood like teak, and not large panels of formica'd wood grain like my 1988 204C had.

I prefer fake wood grain for trim over starboard anyday, also because seafoam starboard is close to the color of Grady fiberglass which no longer creates a visual contrast on a trim line.

To each their own.
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Yeah, I agree. I belt sanded all my fake wood trim off mine. I then fine sanded and refinished with stain & polyurethane. It's been a couple of years and still looks pretty good. It was a good deal of work but I was able to do a few pieces at a time and at my convenience so it wasn't too bad.

LB
 
BobP Posted: May Fri 22, 2009 11:19 am Post subject:

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Just about everything is fake today.


I wasn't thinking about Grady Whites... :wink:
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try the cellular pvc, stuff is cheap, easy to work with and wont rot. Can get trim sizes at local lowes or home depot. I replaced all my fake teak (plywood) with it. fraction of the cost of starboard. Can get larger pieces from local lumber yard.

This is the brand I used, got a 4x8ft sheet 3/4in for 140$

http://www.versatex.com/

I will try to post some pics, still trying to find a decent digi cam, came out nice.
 
Price is much cheaper than starboard !

I bet the older guys like woodgrain more so than the younger guys.

If I could buy duratrim today, would buy replacements for the stuff out in the sun that has faded. Can't find it anywhere.
 
sfc2113 said:
try the cellular pvc, stuff is cheap, easy to work with and wont rot. Can get trim sizes at local lowes or home depot. I replaced all my fake teak (plywood) with it. fraction of the cost of starboard. Can get larger pieces from local lumber yard.

This is the brand I used, got a 4x8ft sheet 3/4in for 140$

http://www.versatex.com/

I will try to post some pics, still trying to find a decent digi cam, came out nice.
Click to expand...

Did you paint it? If so, were there any problems.

LB
 
Leebert said:
sfc2113 said:
try the cellular pvc, stuff is cheap, easy to work with and wont rot. Can get trim sizes at local lowes or home depot. I replaced all my fake teak (plywood) with it. fraction of the cost of starboard. Can get larger pieces from local lumber yard.

This is the brand I used, got a 4x8ft sheet 3/4in for 140$

http://www.versatex.com/

I will try to post some pics, still trying to find a decent digi cam, came out nice.
Click to expand...

Did you paint it? If so, were there any problems.

LB
Click to expand...
No did not paint it, but I could have , I did glue some wood panel on one piece but liked the white look better as it matches the faded white color pretty well on the older Grady. no problems at all. Have had the boat out on some rough water over the past month and it is holding strong.
I let a small piece soak in a tub of water for 2 weeks in my yard then put it in the sun for a week, no swelling, weighed the same and did not warp. but wear safety goggles when cutting pvc boards cuz those plastic bits fly right in your eyes. Someone told me that starboard warps if you let it sit in the sun. not sure if anyone else may be able to validate this. I did not test this as a 2ftx2ft 1/8think piece is like 60$.
 
I have done this to my '84 241.......

A friend of mine is in the business.......for the past 2 years we have replace all the teak in my cockpit and helm area..........he is able to fabricate the "molding" for me.

P1010020.jpg


Check out the pic in this thread..........

http://www.greatgrady.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10432
 
I used 'Ipe. Its as hard as steel. It won't rot. It won't burn. Bugs won't eat it.
IT WILL NOT FLOAT.
Maintinance is not too hard. I just wipe it down with linseed oil.
All the pieces I used were left over from a flooring job.

And yes I'm an old guy and prefer wood trim. :shock:

teakmount005.jpg
 
I'm also an older guy that likes to keep things original. I found the exact formica at a cabinet makers shop. I bought a 4 X 8 sheet and used adhesive to attach to plywood. Using the old piece as a template it was a perfect original replacement.

I was told by the cabinet maker to buy the dry powder adhesive at the hardware store and mix with water per the instructions. The dry adhesive is better for exterior applications.
 
I appreciate all the info, thanks!

I can definitely see the nostalgia is keeping things original but all of my faux wood is kind of chalky after the years and I guess being a young guy (26) drives a long way in me wanting to update the boat. Again, I appreciate all the info and eventually I will post some before and after pics somewhere on the site.

Thanks,
Mike
 
Don't understand the dry powder use for applying formica over ply.

I would use silica thickened epoxy resin on the ply, or 3/4 oz glass mat sheet, after prewetting ply out with straight resin. Then weight it a bit or clamp it. Router the edge over. Some pieces are very thin I think 3/16 or 1/4 inch, toe rail is heavier. Just wish I could buy the stuff as it was original.

I made an instrument panel out of 1/8 inch polyester board and bonded a piece of wood grain formica to it, of similar grain as Grady used , a bit darker. This was for the yamaha multifution gauges.
Initially I did it in black starboard, had a fabricator cut the panel. The black starboard didn't look good for the yamaha gauges, ripped it out and did it over in the wood grain formica. Looked better to me.

Until I get the weathered duratrim done in the cockpit, liberal coating of Penetrol will have to do.
 
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