The 2' by 4' fiberglass cockpit panel that covers fuel tank is spongy around the plastic access hatch. I have removed the panel and the wooden squares are soft. I plan to chisel it down to fiberglass . Can someone walk me thru the next steps to repair? It looks like I need to use 3/4" marine plywood. I got estimate of 280.00 to do . Is this reasonable versus buying resin, fiberglass, wood, clamps etc?
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repairing fiberglass fuel tank coffin lid
- Thread starter beagleboy
- Start date
Mariner
Member
Beagleboy, I recently did the same job. I removed the old wood myself and cut out the new 1/2" plywood. I took it to my fiberglass expert and he said 1/2" was thick enough and since it was going to be completely epoxied in, marine grade wood was not necessary. I also had him repair a chunk missing from my livewell cover and he matched the gelcoat. It cost me $250 for everything. It was nice and solid when he was done. I believe that your quote is a fair price.
Good luck with the repair.
Mariner
Good luck with the repair.
Mariner
Curmudgeon
Well-Known Member
I got estimate of 280.00 to do .
That's a no-brainer, go for it. Make sure he will extend the core all the way to the edge of the actual access hole so the rim of the access cover screws into it ...
That's a no-brainer, go for it. Make sure he will extend the core all the way to the edge of the actual access hole so the rim of the access cover screws into it ...
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Anonymous
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jehines3
Well-Known Member
Pete, I have to disagree on your methodology. I got a quote to have mine done and this included specifically up to the lip. The lip in this composite layup "sandwhich" provides quite bit of overall stiffness.
The difference from the GW factory lay-up, is that the coring holes must all be predrilled to min 1/2" and then completely refilled with epoxy and redrilled proper size once cured. The other key item is to drill the deck holes to the overall screw diameter as to not thread the hatch, the screw should slide neatly thorugh the hatch screw holes. As for the deck hatch, the whole thing should be predriled and refileld with epoxy and then drilled again, except the screw holes need to be proper for screw into direct fiberglass which is slightly larger than into wood.
See Jimmys threads regarding the use of core "tubes" in transoms and Brians use of same for guwhale plug. jh
The difference from the GW factory lay-up, is that the coring holes must all be predrilled to min 1/2" and then completely refilled with epoxy and redrilled proper size once cured. The other key item is to drill the deck holes to the overall screw diameter as to not thread the hatch, the screw should slide neatly thorugh the hatch screw holes. As for the deck hatch, the whole thing should be predriled and refileld with epoxy and then drilled again, except the screw holes need to be proper for screw into direct fiberglass which is slightly larger than into wood.
See Jimmys threads regarding the use of core "tubes" in transoms and Brians use of same for guwhale plug. jh
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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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jehines3
Well-Known Member
Pete, I hear ya buddy, It was not clear in your reply to him that his guy should fill the void between the deck edge and the coring with epoxy.
Did you use a strand or cat hair in your edge fill? My method is a bit more low budget since resin is not cheap and would allow the use of cheaper already purchased marine ply as filler without core compromise. I think with a 5/8" gap that you need a substrait for strength (Question?) jh
Did you use a strand or cat hair in your edge fill? My method is a bit more low budget since resin is not cheap and would allow the use of cheaper already purchased marine ply as filler without core compromise. I think with a 5/8" gap that you need a substrait for strength (Question?) jh
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Curmudgeon
Well-Known Member
Pete says that is EXACTLY where the water saturates the wood to begin with ...
Not if it's bedded and sealed properly. Done correctly, the access plate is well supported (meaning no flexing and cracking of plate or cover) and the screw holes are blind with no water access to the core. Maximum strength, little, if any, chance for water intrusion, life expectancy unlimited. :? [/i]
Not if it's bedded and sealed properly. Done correctly, the access plate is well supported (meaning no flexing and cracking of plate or cover) and the screw holes are blind with no water access to the core. Maximum strength, little, if any, chance for water intrusion, life expectancy unlimited. :? [/i]
jehines3
Well-Known Member
Carmudgen, the issue is mostly with the perimeter screws. Once they are removed and reset, the have a tendancy to allow water into the core. On mine they shot straight through the glass and wood and rely on the silicone to keep water out of the core. Not good practice since silicone is only good fro 4-5 years and not good at holding back standing water. All the methods described here are better than factory. The use of overdrill and fill method is very useful on all cored composites and IMO should have been considered good practice from the start. But we still all have good boats even if we have to recore a few hatches.
I mean mine is 18 years old and I can still use it fine, but when I removed the cover this last season and set it on end water came pouring out. Its soft but not dead yet. jh
I mean mine is 18 years old and I can still use it fine, but when I removed the cover this last season and set it on end water came pouring out. Its soft but not dead yet. jh