Replace or Brush and Use?

Meanwhile

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What would you do?

I weighed them to compare the material.

Used Bar = 340g
New Bar = 347g

Button Used = 41g
New Button = 48g

As I had them off I replaced them, but I'll wire clean them for the shorter dip. I usually pull the boat once in a season to check the boat, lower unit etc.
 

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Cost of anodes . . .
Cost of new tab(s) . . .
Cost of repair or replace trim/tilt . . .

These are the really easy ones to do . . . recommend replacing each season so that at a minimum you have fresh metal to metal surface contact between the anode and the bracket. I'd do the 8 in the powerhead if you don't know when they were last replaced, if you have the same F225 I had. 6 are easy to find, 2 additional ones are there hiding by the thermostats if you've got the updated housings.

Just an opinion though . . .
 
The general rule of thumb is to replace anodes that have lost half their weight. There is no harm in replacing more often but I think it is a waste of money. Yes you can clean them up and tou should check that any grounding wires are in good shape.
One important factor is not only how much of an anode has worn away but how long it was in service. If the ones in you pics were used for a season, you have lots of life left, multiple seasons. On the other hand, I have seen anodes eaten up in three weeks due to stray water currents.
Time in service is as or more important that weight in many cases.
 
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Just replace. No need to be a chiseler on the zincs. Every 2-3 years for the big ones. Do the thruster every year. Those aluminum ones go fast. I've seen too many side power thrusters on GWs with blades missing. Once the zinc is gone, the blades go next.
 
Randy,
To clean up those old zincs, just brush on some muriatic acid and rinse with a hose. Takes seconds and the results will make you smile. They will look new. Its the same stuff you use to clean /etch concrete or balance your swimming pool water. Get it at any pool store or Home Depot.
 
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Note that muriatic acid can be a dangerous chemical. The stronger the concentration, the higher the risk. In many states it is also considered a hazardous chemical. Several years ago in New York, a sanitation worker was killed when he dumped a resident's garbage that contained a bottle of the acid' The rear compactor of the truck smashed the bottle and the liquid sprayer onto the worker.
Personally I don't see the need to make the anode shiny and all cleaned up.
Just brush off the somewhat loose buildup.
I do however agree with Fishtales about bow thruster anodes. They should be regularly checked and maintained/replaced
 
Sounds like you replaced them already, but those have plenty of life in them. I replace when they're about half gone. There's really no benefit to replacing them early, other than "it feels good" - which certainly has some merit. Either put those back on and save the new ones for when they're needed... or save the old ones to replace the new ones - if that makes sense.
 
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I can’t get the anode off my bow thruster. It’s very corroded and I don’t want to damage anything by getting too rough with it. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
B30C4C56-14D7-45A4-8CCD-AB8FF8A8A680.jpeg
 
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Small impact gun/driver, extension and allen head driver bit.
 
I can get the screw out easily. I just can’t get the anode to budge after the screw is out. It’s corroded to the mount.
 
What would you do?

I weighed them to compare the material.

Used Bar = 340g
New Bar = 347g

Button Used = 41g
New Button = 48g

As I had them off I replaced them, but I'll wire clean them for the shorter dip. I usually pull the boat once in a season to check the boat, lower unit etc.
Replace it.
 
Replace it.
That's practically brand new! I wonder what the general tolerance is for two new bars.
That said, if you taken the thing off, you might as well replace it but next time, you don't have to weigh it. You just look at it and you can tell over time how fast is gets eaten up and how much life is left.
 
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I can get the screw out easily. I just can’t get the anode to budge after the screw is out. It’s corroded to the mount.
Try backing the screw out only most of the way then rock the screw back and forth to "unstick" the anode. You might try, gently, prying with a screwdriver between the anode and the surrounding lip - but again, gently. You could also try gently tapping the anode with a hammer and a long screwdriver.
 
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Perhaps I am missing something. I have 2004 F225s and all I know of are 4 anodes in the engines and one on the lower cowling.

Are there more?

Was planning to buy and replace all anodes and thermostats end of the month...I think 2 thermostats per engine.

R