Replacing Breaker in main cabin panel 330 express

Joined
Nov 25, 2019
Messages
7
Likes
2
Points
3
Grady White Model
Express 330
#1
My sump pump box for ac and shower failed recently in my 2016 330 express. (the output pipe snapped off at the box wall). Grady was kind enough to agree to send me a new box which includes the pump (I'm waiting for it now) but advised me the new pump is a 5amp draw whereas the old one was only a 2.5 amp draw thus I must replace the breaker in the 12v side of the main panel. Does anyone have experience with replacing a breaker in the 330 panel? Any advice is appreciated.
 

Fishtales

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 31, 2005
Messages
3,726
Likes
216
Points
63
#2
I've had the panel off before and as I recall the breakers hard mount to the face with a couple of screws. I'd ensure the battery selector switches are set to off first. Should be able to remove the screws that hold the panel in and it comes out. The wires on the backside will hold the panel in place a few inches off the wall. You should be able to get the manufacturer of the breaker off one. See what the other breakers are rated for while there, you may be able to get a 5a part number. Should be able to get at DigiKey or on Ebay. Check the wiring gauge while there. You should be ok but you want to ensure it can handle 5a at 12vdc.
 

Bayhouse

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2014
Messages
85
Likes
3
Points
8
#4
The jumble of wires and loops can be a PITA to deal with, but it's much easier on the DC side than the AC side. Take some good pics before you start follow FishTales advice. I'd also have the AC power off since you're going to be working with tools near that side.
 
Joined
Nov 25, 2019
Messages
7
Likes
2
Points
3
Grady White Model
Express 330
#6
Thanks Bayhouse. I have had a few panels off over the years and I agree that its a good idea to disconnect from ac as well when opening it up. - I haven't begun this project yet but noticed today that the Grady 330 panel actually has a piano hinge on one side which was something I've never had before in any of my previous boats. In my past adventures into the back of a panel I always recruited my wife to hold the panels so as to not put too much weight on all those wires while I looked/worked behind so kudos to Grady to hinge it. It is a pretty big panel on the 330 so it does seem justified. I'm waiting on what I hope is the correct breaker before I open it up - I'll post the results. All advice still welcome. :)
 

Bayhouse

Well-Known Member
Joined
Oct 21, 2014
Messages
85
Likes
3
Points
8
#7
Sounds like a good upgrade on Grady's part. My 2003 has no hinge and I have to "hang" the panel on the bundle of wires coming in from behind. I can only remember one time when a harness connector got disconnected but it was a pretty easy diagnosis. Good luck with the project and keep us posted!
 

HMBJack

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2005
Messages
557
Likes
11
Points
18
Location
Half Moon Bay, CA.
#8
I never knew that the AC system dumps water or at least condensation into the shower sump.

Is this true? My 330 plumbing schematic for the AC system does not show this. Maybe it's different on the 2016's...
 
Last edited:
Joined
Nov 25, 2019
Messages
7
Likes
2
Points
3
Grady White Model
Express 330
#10
I can't speak to any year other than my 2016 but in my 330 the AC condensate drain line definitely inserts into the top face of the rule shower sump box. Same setup as my last boat - a 36' mainship. The 97A box in my 2016 Grady was pretty basic and failed when the 3/4" output snapped off at the side of the box. That model is since discontinued and I was able to adapt a 98 box (a much better box!) to accept the shower and ac inputs and the 3/4" output. So the 98 box came with a new rule 800 5amp pump to replace the rule 500 2.5 amp pump. So I needed to replace the 2.5 amp breaker with a 5 amp breaker.- I got into the panel this morning. I anticipated the piano hinge in the panel would make for easier access but alas that was not the case. The panel would only swing out about 5 inches - nowhere near enough to replace a breaker without quite a bit of snipping the super neat wire ties in the harnesses restricting the swing and then again snipping multiple ties to free the individual sump wire from a larger vertical harness. I could have done it but the job was so neat and beautiful as is that I could not bear to do it so I just swapped the old pump and float which still work fine into the new box instead - the wiring was all the same and the pump output was never an issue. so all is working again. Thanks
 
Likes: HMBJack

HMBJack

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2005
Messages
557
Likes
11
Points
18
Location
Half Moon Bay, CA.
#11
Thanks and no intent to jack this thread (which seems over anyway...)

My 2006 330 has the AC system that of course circulates seawater (a la heat exchanger) and dumps the circulated sea water out of a waterline thru hull on the port side.

So I suppose, there is a condensation type additional hose that deposits condensation water into the shower sump.
Here in the San Francisco Bay Area, we never have a need for AC - just HEAT. So perhaps the condensation water only comes from AC?
 
Joined
Nov 25, 2019
Messages
7
Likes
2
Points
3
Grady White Model
Express 330
#12
The ac/heat unit is located under the stairs and sits on a large pan. The condensate hose comes of the bottom of the pan and runs directly down to the sump box. The hose can be accessed easily at the ac pan by pulling off the small air grate at the entrance to the mid berth or the forward panel on the port side inside the mid berth. My unit is also reverse cycle for ac and heat - I don't know if condensate is created in heat mode.

HMBJack you will need that ac when you head up into the Delta! I kept my 36' Mainship in Pittsburg CA municipal marina for many years. Lots of great protected water up there to explore. Had to leave her there when I moved to Florida in 2016.
 
Likes: HMBJack