Replacing bunks on my EZ loader trailer. Current bunks are 3 1/2" by 2 1/2". Question: Would you use 4 x 4's which are 3 1/2" x 3 1/2 or cut them down to the original size?
Replacing Bunks on trailer
- Thread starter Clark.N
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What is the length of the old bunks and how big/heavy is the boat?
Before I would use 4x4, I would prefer doubled up 2x4s for a 3 1/2 by 3 profile. I might prefer doubled 2x6 lumber depending on the boat weight
Before I would use 4x4, I would prefer doubled up 2x4s for a 3 1/2 by 3 profile. I might prefer doubled 2x6 lumber depending on the boat weight
The bunks are 12 ft long. I do not trailer the boat except for maintenance. I have a 1998 232G Gulfstream with a F250. The Trailer is rated at 7900# I am sure boat weighs over 6000 with partial fuel since it is kept on a lift.
Assuming that there are two mounting brackets per bunk and at 12 feet, I don'y think a 2x4 is stiff enough. It would definitely not be stiff enough if it is mounted with the wide side facing up. What was on the trailer originally?
Seasick suggested using doubled 2 x 4's but since my bunks sit wide side up I think I might have a problem with the hardware used to join them. Original bunks were 3 1/2 x 2 1/2. My thoughts were to replace with 4 x 4 which are
3 1/2 x 3 1/2 or match original by cutting off 1 inch. the easiest being to use 4 x 4. My bunks have wide side up and cradle the boat (2 bunks per side each 12 foot).
RussGW270
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Have you called the trailer place and asked them where they source their wood? Might give you an idea if a 2x4 or 4x4 setup would work. Just curious. As I rebuilt my trailer, I worked with the trailer mfg and learned what they did and why and saved me a couple replacement parts before I got the wrong thing, but I most definitely would do like you are talking about, using common lumber, before paying for the prices they charge for “their lumber”.
RussGW270
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No problem bud. It may not help...the trailer place I called wanted like 8 dollars a foot for a 2x6 bunk...heh, but it may give you a nice warm fuzzy if they say a plain 4x4 will work or the other 2x4 doubled that was suggested
GL bud
GL bud
Called EZ Loader Corporate Customer Service. They said 4 x 4 would work. Also said to use Fir or Yellow Pine among others. They said no treated wood due to environmental issues which I don't understand. We use treated wood all over Virginia. To end this post I will use the 4 x 4 and replace all 4 bunks. I also will see if Lowe's or Home Depot can rip a 4 x 4 by 1" to make it 3 1/2 x 2 1/2 as originally installed.
Thanks All
Thanks All
blindmullet
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I highly doubt that HD or Lowes would rip a 4x4. Regardless, I will bet you a beer that if you do rip one side ,The board over time will warp. Stresses build up in the lumber as it dries and when you cut one side, the built up stress causes that side to expand.
You can double up 2 2x4s using construction adhesive and a few weather resistant screws to make a 3 x 3 1/2 bunk
The recommendation no to use pressure treated wood probably has to do with the potential corrosion of steel parts of the trailer from the chemicals leaching out of pressure treated lumber.
Thanks for your thoughts. In your opinion, would the doubled 2 x 4 be better than the 4 x 4? I also assume that counter sunk screws should be used in order for the wide side to face up.
Lumber should be edge up. The wood is much stiffer in that direction. Screws would then be on sides and countersinking is not necessary. Just make sure you use weather resistant screws.
Your lumber most like will have a crown; That is a slight curve to one edge when looking down the edge. The crown should be positioned facing up.
Your lumber most like will have a crown; That is a slight curve to one edge when looking down the edge. The crown should be positioned facing up.
kirk a
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You might also take the time to look for a real lumberyard, and not go with dimensional lumber. A good yard should be able to source what you need, and get a true 2 1/2" wide board aka 10/4. Cypress, cedar, white oak would probably all work fine.
Have you considered laminating compost decking material? I have some on a set of stairs that appears indestructible. Installed edge up with two or three planks bolted together should do the trick for years.. When my Road king aluminum trailer needs new bunks I will got to aluminum I beam bunks, never to replace again. Do not think it would be an issue of trailer floating without the heavy bunks that are now on it, but have heard of that issue.
Composite decking material like that used for the deck surface is not strong enough. It is not ' structural per se' lumber and would bend. That stuff actually can drop in the hot sun.
I like the idea of aluminum bunks but I suspect that 12 foot beams would be a lot more expensive that some structural traditional lumber boards.
Thanks for all the help. Decided to post pic's to better show what I am replacing and the configuration of the trailer mounts and brackets. The condition of the bunks are due to my neighbors fire which melted the carpet exposing the one cracked bunk. The 3 1/2" side is against the boat.
Can I still use a doubled 2x4 since the mounting brackets would be on the 3" side at the joint?
Should I replace 2 or 4 bunks?
Do you think the additional height of the new bunks if I do not cut them down would affect boat loading?
I am still shopping wood but custom lumber in my area is shipped in and I got one quote of $90 for one 2 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 10' oak board. So I am thinking my options are doubled 2x4, 4x4, or rip 4x4 to original specs.
Can I still use a doubled 2x4 since the mounting brackets would be on the 3" side at the joint?
Should I replace 2 or 4 bunks?
Do you think the additional height of the new bunks if I do not cut them down would affect boat loading?
I am still shopping wood but custom lumber in my area is shipped in and I got one quote of $90 for one 2 1/2" x 3 1/2" x 10' oak board. So I am thinking my options are doubled 2x4, 4x4, or rip 4x4 to original specs.
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I have a 3 axle version of your trailer for my 272 sailfish. I too am looking to replace the bunks. I called ez loader and they suggested #1 or better grade Doug fir 2x4s. The strength difference between what’s on the trailer and the 2x4s I picked up is a very noticeable difference. I fear they will either break or not support the boat well enough. Not sure what other options I have? I though about maybe using Doug fir 2x6s for some added strength?
Another thing to consider is how much they flex around the hull. 14’ bunks twist practically 75 degrees from midship to stern with that Grady flare.
Another thing to consider is how much they flex around the hull. 14’ bunks twist practically 75 degrees from midship to stern with that Grady flare.
Its a bit hard to be certain but your wood seems to be in decent shape and just the covering burned. If that is the case, clean up the bunks and install new covering material.
I also was not aware that you had 4 bunks, full length. That does reduce the load on each bunk. I would still opt for doubled 2x4s but flat side up not edge.
I also was not aware that you had 4 bunks, full length. That does reduce the load on each bunk. I would still opt for doubled 2x4s but flat side up not edge.
Seasick, in your opinion, how many bunks should I replace? The bunk on the far left has a large crack about 24 inches long and my utility knife blade goes in about 1" at most in some areas. Wood is cracked in other areas but this area has the most split. The other bunks are not cracked at all. If I use the 2 x 4 idea it will be 1/2 inch difference from the other bunks, would it matter? Another thought is to run screws, about 3", to give added strength to that area. The wood itself is not rotten. I would have just recovered the bunk but my wife was concerned and I could not really saw all was ok.
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