Replacing fuel tanks 1999 Grady 306 Bimini model

foxdungeon

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I had a slight smell of fuel, had a pressure test done to 1 lb and the aft tank had some holes around the fill line. This group has always provided very good feedback, and I wanted to contribute as well as ask a question or two. All fuel removed... I ran them low knowing I may need to replace tanks.
I did this myself, as I am currently not working and received quotes of 18-20 k to remove and replace (2) tanks.
Process;
1-remove all batteries / plumbing disconnect any items at the leaning post.
2- remove leaning post, I took the port and starboard insert compartments /drawers out, to access the screws. This is necessary and will lighten the leaning post up. Once free it probably weighs about 200 lbs. I tied rachet straps and had forklift at marina pick up.
3- remove large deck piece, screw gun and utility knife to cut caulk.
4- removal of fuel tanks.
There are plastic wedges that hold the tanks down. The tanks sit on rubber hoses. The design is very nice excepting the bulkhead that you will need to cut down in order to pick up the front tank and slide it aft to completely remove it. I contacted Grady (I have had 3 Gradys) Carolyn in service noted that bulkhead is just for separation. I think it does provide some structure as well; certainly, hope they changed the design in the newer canyon model to me this is ridiculous, they only would have needed to reduce the size of the tanks 4 inches. I have seen on other post people would -reinstall the piece after removing it ... I'm going to go with 3/4 " starboard and bolt in place after I seal the edges of the plywood.
5- I have priced out the tanks from a couple suppliers in Florida. The original tanks were from Florida marine tanks. I reached out, the prices they gave me were ridiculous. You can find very good tanks in the 4k range for both. heavier gauge and coated.
6-Fuel supply lines look relatively easy. The fuel fill and the vent look a bit challenging ............

Question; has anyone have knowledge of any tricks with the fuel fill and vent lines? I have heard they could be a bit tough


7- I will get the tanks in a week or soo and update the thread.



thank you
 

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It is critical to make sure that you do not use and rubber based products when mounting your tank. Neoprene is an option as are some plastic/fiberglass based products.
Here is a good article on tank installation

Installing new fill and vent lines can be challenging. Some folks use the old hoses to pull the new ones, splicing the two together with a appropriately size coupler. It may help to remove the fill fitting on the hull. The routing of the fill line is critical and the routing of the vent line is more critical since low loops can result in liquid blockage. Do not remove the old unless you have documented their routing especially high loops.
On the bright side, new hoses will be a bit more flexible than the old ones. It may be necessary to cut new access holes to help route the hoses
 
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Cool - thanks for the posting this info - it's always good to see what someone's process is! :)

They were sitting on rubber hoses? Shame on GW :) Depending on all of the variables, it can lead to corrosion of the tank since it doesn't allow air to surround the tank and moisture can stay in contact with the tank. The main goal is to glue something, such as a PVC strip, to the tank (filleting the edges) and then let the PVC strips sit on something. Same for the plastic hold-downs. Again, this is largely dependent on the variables, but these steps would be a best-practice thing.

Another idea for using the old hose to pull the new one through... stictch the two together with some cordage - this keeps that "joint" between the two hoses flexible.

Spray the hose with silicone.

Don't be afraid to cut an access hole (and make it bigger than you think you need) or holes in key areas. A simple pie plate or access deck plate cleans it up. Make your life easy... well, as easy as possible!
 
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