Hi All, Getting ready to take on that awful task of replacing all the thru hulls including the scuppers on my 1990 gulfstream. I would like to have all these on hand when the cover is removed but not sure of the sizes. Can anyone tell me exactly what sizes are needed and where they can be purchased?
replacing Gulfstream thru hulls
- Thread starter jim f 232
- Start date
Hi Jim. I have a '90 Gulfstream 232. I too am looking into replacing all the thru hulls. Are you replacing the above and below waterline or just below the waterline? Do you have a macerator ? I have a total of 5 on the port side and 5 on the starboard side and 4 sucppers on the transom. On the port side all are 1" except the livewell overflow thruhull which is 1 1/2 inch. On the starboard side all are 1 inch except the head vent thruhull which is 3/4 inch. The number of thruhulls that are at or below the waterline is 4. Of them, they are all 1". If you do not have a macerator then subtract the 1" head drain thruhull and the 3/4 inch head vent thruhull.
All said and done I have 2 for baitwells, 2 for bilge drains, 1 fish box drain, 1 live well drain, 1 live well overflow, 1 head drain, 1 head vent and 1 grey water drain (for the sink).
Keep this in mind. Seems like 1" is the standard for our thruhull sizes. The 1 1/2 " livewell overflow thru hull that I have COULD have not been a factory size and could have been altered for whatever reason before I owned this boat. On that note, consider the fact that YOUR boat could have been altered also if you didnt buy it new.
Good luck with your project and you can buy all these from a Grady Dealer (most expensive), West Marine ( still expensive) or on the web ( least expensive).
By the way, are you going with plastic or some sort of metal. ( I dont even know if metal like bronze is an option???) Let me know how you make out. NOTE: Measurements were approximate and we inside diameter of the thru hull from outside the boat.
All said and done I have 2 for baitwells, 2 for bilge drains, 1 fish box drain, 1 live well drain, 1 live well overflow, 1 head drain, 1 head vent and 1 grey water drain (for the sink).
Keep this in mind. Seems like 1" is the standard for our thruhull sizes. The 1 1/2 " livewell overflow thru hull that I have COULD have not been a factory size and could have been altered for whatever reason before I owned this boat. On that note, consider the fact that YOUR boat could have been altered also if you didnt buy it new.
Good luck with your project and you can buy all these from a Grady Dealer (most expensive), West Marine ( still expensive) or on the web ( least expensive).
By the way, are you going with plastic or some sort of metal. ( I dont even know if metal like bronze is an option???) Let me know how you make out. NOTE: Measurements were approximate and we inside diameter of the thru hull from outside the boat.
Robby, I am replacing all thru hulls above and below waterline with stainless. No macerator and I only have 2 transom scupper drains.I think your right with the 1 1/2" drain for the livewell and all the rest appear to be the same size (1"). I'm a little confused as to why the scuppers are different, (I have a single flap type on each side). Could it be the model? I have a 232G with a euro bracket and twins.
Well thanks for all the info and I will keep you posted on the outcome.
I may call Grady tomorrow on the scuppers.
Thanks again
Well thanks for all the info and I will keep you posted on the outcome.
I may call Grady tomorrow on the scuppers.
Thanks again
I did the thru hulls in stainless on my girl last year. The live well overboard is larger along with the scuppers per Grady White factory install. :wink:
Ok. Mine is a single 250 suxuki 4 stroke transom mounted. I have the transom drop down door so that explains my 2 extra scuppers. Now as far as thru hulls. I looked on the web for them last night and found a large variety of types, sizes and such. I saw plastic, bronze and shiny stainless steel. Which ones are you buying and how much are you paying? Some were longer than others (depth from out to in) and some weren't straight, they had 90 degree bends so without taking my old ones out how do i know if its 90 degree or not? also the part that the hose connects to, some were ribbed to hold the hose on better and some were smooth. Any idea about any of these questions?
Talked to Grady dealer and had them fax me info on 1990 gulfstream thru hull replacement with stainless, here are the results.
4- 1 1/2" (Scuppers) long thread $35.12 each
2- 1" (sink/icebox) (fishbox) reg thread $17.52 each
2- 1 1/2" (livewell drain) (aft fishbox) reg thread $30.52 each
2- 1 1/8" (fwd. and aft bildge) reg thread $21.18 each
AS you can see there are irregularties with my boat (4 scuppers etc.) but hopefully this info will help you. As far as I can see there are no 90 degree fittings and hopefully they are all barbed ends.
4- 1 1/2" (Scuppers) long thread $35.12 each
2- 1" (sink/icebox) (fishbox) reg thread $17.52 each
2- 1 1/2" (livewell drain) (aft fishbox) reg thread $30.52 each
2- 1 1/8" (fwd. and aft bildge) reg thread $21.18 each
AS you can see there are irregularties with my boat (4 scuppers etc.) but hopefully this info will help you. As far as I can see there are no 90 degree fittings and hopefully they are all barbed ends.
jweschler said:
Damn thats alot of money "labor" for one days work. :shock: Two guys "one with skinny arms" a six pack a tube of 5200 clamps hose and your done. You will also know its done "sealed" right.
Dont forget to pick out the fiberglass slivers in your arms when your done due to very sloppy if any finishing under the decks. :cry:
If it also includes the hoses, it's not that bad. Most places charge over $100 per hour for work (usually $125). The hoses will run over $200.
But yea it not a hard job, just a PIA. You do learn a lot about the boat when you do it, and how itchy fiverglass can be.
But yea it not a hard job, just a PIA. You do learn a lot about the boat when you do it, and how itchy fiverglass can be.
RUMBLEFISH,
I am in the process of changing all my thru hulls on my 1991 gulfstream. I was wondering did you change the drains in the fish boxes under the seats. The hoses on my boat are rock hard and don't bend so easy. I am thinking about changing those drains and hoses also. Correct me if I am wrong, unscrew the drain from the elbow. pull hose out through access port. Connect new elbow to new hose and insert back through the access port. Line up elbow under drain and screw drain into elbow and seal. Any input would be appreciated.
I am in the process of changing all my thru hulls on my 1991 gulfstream. I was wondering did you change the drains in the fish boxes under the seats. The hoses on my boat are rock hard and don't bend so easy. I am thinking about changing those drains and hoses also. Correct me if I am wrong, unscrew the drain from the elbow. pull hose out through access port. Connect new elbow to new hose and insert back through the access port. Line up elbow under drain and screw drain into elbow and seal. Any input would be appreciated.
DirtyDog- thats the best idea ive heard so far. questions: will the elbow get ruined doing it that way? Have you seen or tried to access the thru hull that the sink drains out of? its on the port side at the waterline. i peered down thru the inspection hole located to the left of the sink in that small storage area and it is literally impossible to reach with your hand(and i have long arms). How does this one get changed out?
just talked to a local dealer. he says that the drain is inserted from inside the fishbox and pushed down and that your idea wont work. Let me know if this is indeed correct.
Gulfstreamrobby said:
Yours is probably the same as the Sailfish. The drains in the fish boxes are straight taper and go into 90's then attach to the hose. A lock ring under the box holds the drain in place, but unfortuntely it's surrounded by the sprayed foam. Once the foam is removed from the area it's not that bad but you're going to get scratched.
*UPDATE* The dealer I talked to was incorrect. You can indeed bring the elbow with hose attached out thru the inspection plate. Also, I talked to a Grady dealer today and took his advise and here is what I did. Bought a new inspeciton plate, traced it out in the fishbox bottom close to the starboard side and cut a hole in it. From there that elbow was very accessible. Now, if you use that fishbox alot for fish with ice it will still work but might not be the best idea but it is my belief that most people use it for storage. ( I have life jackets, fenders, lines, etc. in mine) Back to the project, I just finished doing mine and it came out intact. I snapped the thru hull to get that to come out easier. It may have had a small crack in it anyhow. About the hole in the boat where the thru hull came out- the balsa wood that is sandwiched between two layers of fiberglass was pretty wet. I dug most of it out with a bent screwdriver. This was also true on the livewell side of the boat, proof that both thru hulls had been leaking. The hose was very very hardened. I had to slit the hose from around the elbow with a razorblade to get it out. The factory used some goopy brown sticky stuff like pitch on a pine tree. I plan to use only some silicone and Ill just make sure the hose clamp is fairly tight. I guess my plan is to cut the new hose to length, attach one end to the elbow, tighten the hose clamp and send it down thru the inspeciton hole, bring it over and screw it in. Next have a buddy push the new stainless thru hull lubed up with 5200 into the hole, screw it down, slide hose over silicone lubed end of thru hull, tighten down and good to go.
Just replaced my thru hull last weekend......93 gulfstream
The job is really not that difficult. I replaced all the thru hulls except the scuppers. (will be a later project). It took 3 hours to remove all fittings. Replacing them took about 2 hours. All the fittings except the 1 1/2 live well and the forward bilg were done without the aid of any help. Just lock vice grips on the nut and the pliers will hold when they turn and rest on the hull bottom or other fitting. The live well fitting took a pipe wrench to hold the nut while an aid turned the fitting. The forward bilg was up high and there was nothing for the vice grip to contact to keep it from turning, so an aid was need for 1 minute here also.
Removing the access ports completely gives you an extra 1" of working space. It took longer to do the removal because the fittings broke when trying to remove the hose. Using a small screwdriver to slide between the fitting and hose made the fittings loose for easy removal.
If you have good hand coordination (ie. if you can thighten a band clamp by feel rather than by sight.) Its not that difficult. But is uncomfortable, an you will hurt all over when finish.
The job is really not that difficult. I replaced all the thru hulls except the scuppers. (will be a later project). It took 3 hours to remove all fittings. Replacing them took about 2 hours. All the fittings except the 1 1/2 live well and the forward bilg were done without the aid of any help. Just lock vice grips on the nut and the pliers will hold when they turn and rest on the hull bottom or other fitting. The live well fitting took a pipe wrench to hold the nut while an aid turned the fitting. The forward bilg was up high and there was nothing for the vice grip to contact to keep it from turning, so an aid was need for 1 minute here also.
Removing the access ports completely gives you an extra 1" of working space. It took longer to do the removal because the fittings broke when trying to remove the hose. Using a small screwdriver to slide between the fitting and hose made the fittings loose for easy removal.
If you have good hand coordination (ie. if you can thighten a band clamp by feel rather than by sight.) Its not that difficult. But is uncomfortable, an you will hurt all over when finish.
Just got back from Family Vacation in Vero Beach Florida, NO Fishing Though 
.
Gulfstreamrobby, I though the same as you. I looked at that access port and said you got to be kidding me. But, you have to remove the Compartment around that access port in order to change out those 2 Thru hulls on the port side. (Outside the cabin.) Pretty easy job once that compartment is removed. Remove the Duratrim and maybe 8-10 other screws holding it all together and a Alum. bracket up under small compartment next to the seat. Once removed plenty of room to work.
I successfully changed out the fishbox drains by removing the drain as stated previously. I can't believe that the starboard hose was only attached to the thru hull by maybe 3/8--1/2 of inch, the hose popped right off. :shock: Anyway, I made up new drains replicating the one that was remove except the length of threads, adding a pin so I could use a wrench to tighten, and also a .450 spacer. (Owning a Machine shop helps :lol: ) I attached the elbow to a new hose adding 3/4 of an inch to the length. The spacer was then taped to the elbow in order to be able to lock down the fitting from under the fishbox. I then inserted the hose through the access port and lined up the elbow and spacer under the hole. I silconed the fitting and insert it through the hole in the fishbox through the spacer and into the elbow. With the wrench I thighten up the fitting making sure the fitting was tight enough into the elbow while just snugging down to the fish box. Then I attached the hose to the thru-hull.
Scraps and black and blues, but its done. Got to love working on boats.
Vise grips are a must and a specially made wrench helps also.
.Gulfstreamrobby, I though the same as you. I looked at that access port and said you got to be kidding me. But, you have to remove the Compartment around that access port in order to change out those 2 Thru hulls on the port side. (Outside the cabin.) Pretty easy job once that compartment is removed. Remove the Duratrim and maybe 8-10 other screws holding it all together and a Alum. bracket up under small compartment next to the seat. Once removed plenty of room to work.
I successfully changed out the fishbox drains by removing the drain as stated previously. I can't believe that the starboard hose was only attached to the thru hull by maybe 3/8--1/2 of inch, the hose popped right off. :shock: Anyway, I made up new drains replicating the one that was remove except the length of threads, adding a pin so I could use a wrench to tighten, and also a .450 spacer. (Owning a Machine shop helps :lol: ) I attached the elbow to a new hose adding 3/4 of an inch to the length. The spacer was then taped to the elbow in order to be able to lock down the fitting from under the fishbox. I then inserted the hose through the access port and lined up the elbow and spacer under the hole. I silconed the fitting and insert it through the hole in the fishbox through the spacer and into the elbow. With the wrench I thighten up the fitting making sure the fitting was tight enough into the elbow while just snugging down to the fish box. Then I attached the hose to the thru-hull.
Scraps and black and blues, but its done. Got to love working on boats.
Vise grips are a must and a specially made wrench helps also.