Replacing Seafarer 227 fish box drains?

gw204

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Ran into another issue with the new 227 last night. As I was pulling out the last of the original thru-hulls, I noticed that the drain in the port side fishbox has broken and is missing about half of the flange. So, that has to be replaced as well. Only problem is there is absolutely no way to access it!!! There is only a 4" inspection port that is right up against the hull side. I can barely get to the thru-hull through here...let alone manipulate my arm to reach 12" under the fish box. :roll:

You can see the broken flange here...

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The 4" inspection port that gives me "access"...

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Looking down into the inspection port...

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I figured I have a few different options to get to those drains. Let me know what you guys think.

1. Cut a hole in the bottom of the fish box for an inspection port. I'm not keen on this idea because it would sacrifice the "watertightness" of the box and I run the risk of having any water that gets in there leaking down into the hull.

2. Same as no. 1, but glass the section I cut out right back in after the fitting are replaced. Make the bottom of the box pretty again when I get a chance.

3. Cut a hole in the stringer main stringer since I already have the gas tank out. I THINK I could reach the fittings by doing this as long as the outboard stringer wasn't up to the deck as well. I don't believe it is, but I would have to check again. The main stringers are probably 16" tall so this shouldn't cause any decrease in strength and I could glass the piece I cut out right back in and not have to worry about making anything pretty.

4. Cut a hole in the floor for an inspection port. Last resort. I don't like inspection ports all over the place and I don't want to get into reglassing the hole and trying to replicate the diamond non-skid (although I have done that before).

5. Install a new thru hull and cap it. Seal off the existing drains and remove water manually or add new drains on to the deck. The deck is higher than the bottom of the boxes, so I would still have some water collect in there that I would have to remove on occasion.

Right now, I'm leaning towards no. 3 if the outboard stringer isn't full height. Any thoughts or other suggestions?
 

Pay2Play

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I would put a access plate on the floor between the two fish box drains that way you can get to both if needed. Or just seal the broken drain flange and be done with it.

I just went through replacing all the thru hulls and what a pita to do.
 

gw204

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Easiest yes...but I really want to avoid another deckplate I can. I have an email into GW Cust. Service to see what their recommendations are as well.
 

Grog

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I don't know, #2 may be my choice. Fixing the hole and rolling or spraying some gel isn't that bad.
Cutting a hole in the stringer and hoping you can get to it is iffy plus If the stringer is wet it's a PIA to fix.
You need another inspection port in the floor like another hole in your head, just another area to leak.
Sealing off the drain is easy but you'll be cursing it after a while.
 

gw204

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I'm leaning towards notching the top of the stringer just below the deck if I can verify clearance. Taking out something like a 4" x 4" chunk would be easy and I really wouldn't even need to fill it back in, just seal the exposed core. If it's wet, it'll dry enough with a fan to take resin on the surface.
 

Curmudgeon

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Call a Grady dealer and see if they'll part with some hints. I know the fitting is two piece, so it should screw out. or break the rest of the way. Might have to r & r the other one, too ... :wink:
 

gw204

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Looks like I will be easily able to reach both the fish box and cooler drains on the port side if I cut that hole in the stringer. I was peering in through the hole for the thru-hull yesterday and I can see all the way to the main stringer and it looks like I have right about 5" of vertical clearance.

I'll probably replace the for the stbd. side fish box as well, but I have to figure out the best way to get to that one. It's right in the corner so I might be able to reach it by going in through the inspection port.
 

gw204

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Anyone have a part number for these drains? Grady doesn't maintain records back that far all my local dealer said was "match it up"? Gee...thanks. :bang
 

stevblutu15

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I had to replace mine aswell. They are a royal pain in the butt. If I remember correctly those fittings actually thread into elbows. With a pair of pliers unscrew the fitting. West marine sells sink drains that I replaced mine with. Cut the new drain to the proper length if necessary then caulk it well. Use a screwdriver to center it in the elbow when reinstalling. After its in run a bead or caulk around it and you should be good to go. It's a pita but it's better than cutting IMO.
 

gw204

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I already tried grabbing the broken fitting w/ a pair of pliers. It just broke apart when I tried turning it.

Thanks for the tip on the WM drains.