Replacing trailer brakes

[gwwannabe]

I have a Load Rite dual axle trailer with drum brakes on both axles that have to be replaced. I've read a few articles on the internet that say 4 wheel drum brakes can be replaced by 2 wheel disc brakes. I'm not sure I buy that and would like to know what you think. The trailer is rated at 7K and I carry my 89 Overnighter on it occasionally. I'm thinking of trailering my boat to more distant places (CBBT, VA Beach, Outer Banks, etc) this year to fish.

Also, any recommendations of where to buy? I'm especially interested in kits since I've got to do the actuator and brake lines, too.

Thanks,
Gary 89 Overnighter

 

[Average Joe]

I don't know where you are located but I bought everything needed to replace my drum brakes with disc brakes at Portsmouth Trailer Sales ( Chesapeake, VA). I only had brakes on one axle to start with and I went with Kodiac's and the whole set up cost me under $600.00. I did the labor myself on a Saturday afternoon.

 

[gwwannabe]

Thanks for the reply, Joe. I'm up in the northern part of Gloucester so a trip to Chesapeake isn't a problem. I assume everything included the actuater and brake lines? If so, that's a great price.

Gary 89 Overnighter

 

[Seahunter]

Might want to try Eastern Trailer as well. S-Cad Kodiaks are $119 each

 

[Average Joe]

Thanks for the reply, Joe. I'm up in the northern part of Gloucester so a trip to Chesapeake isn't a problem. I assume everything included the actuater and brake lines? If so, that's a great price.

Gary 89 Overnighter

Yes. Call and ask for Rene. She will give you a quote for everything you need over the phone.

www.portstrailersupply.com

 

[jms311]

Trailer Brakes!!!!!

I have a ez loader dual axle trailer that I also tow an 89 GW overnighter. Last lear I replaced the brakes on it with TIE DOWN Vented Disc Brake S.A. Complete Kit from Easternmarine.com. I really have to say it was actually a 30 minute job and they work very well..

 

[gwwannabe]

Guys, were they single or dual axle kits? I assume single but would like to know for sure.

Thanks,
Gary

 

[Average Joe]

Single. My rear axle is just hubs.

 

[jms311]

Trailer brakes

The kit I purchased from eastern marine was for a single axle kit, however there is an optional kit that makes it a dual axle kit.

 

[CJBROWN]

Disc brakes on the leading axle is just fine for a small boat. If the trailer is rated at 7K you have planety of reserve for the overnighter. Dual discs for that size boat would be way overkill and unneeded extra expense.

The tie-down stuff is crap (ask me how I know) although I've been getting by with it for a couple of years now on my RoadKing aluminum trailer. If you can go Kodiak do so, their stuff costs a little more but it's built way better. They did finally get rid of the idiot in customer service at Tie-Down. Maybe I was the straw...that was a couple'a years ago.

Disc brakes work SO much better if you're launching in seawater. Just hose everything down after every launch, they'll last a very long time.

And they stop good too!

BTW, if your brakes are shot your springs probably are too. If you've got leaf springs, they're cheap to replace and highly recommended if they're rusty. They will rust through and break an the most inoportune time.

 

[gwwannabe]

I've ordered Kodiak disc brakes for a single axle from Eastern Marine. With shipping it was just a couple bucks over $500. I got prices from some local boat shops and they were all about $300 higher before sales tax. I try to support my local guys but not when the penalty is this big.

Got to looking at the rollers closely and noticed that many of the retaining washers had completely corroded away. Local dealer carried the washers ($1.50 ea.) and retaining clips ($.98 ea.) so I bought what he had. He had to order more washers and they came in the next day. Cost added up quickly when you consider 2 each per wheel times 28 wheels. I thought the price might have been a bit steep until I looked at West Marines prices today in the catalogue. I paid a bit less than half what they wanted so I'm feeling a bit better about that.

I've had to drill out about a quarter of the retaining clips, all of them on the top of the bar that the wheel is mounted on. None of the bottom holes had to be drilled. Steel clip in an aluminum bar that holds water. Gee, I wonder why they had to be drilled out? Wonder why they don't use a side to side pattern?

Funny that the springs were mentioned. I've been looking at them thinking they're pretty rusty and wondering how long they'll last. Probably should have priced them at Eastern while I was at it.

Thanks for all the replies, guys.
Gary 89 Overnighter

 

[PA228G]

Replaced the springs and winch on my '94 last summer with parts from Eastern Marine.

I also have an EZ loader. The brakes on the trailer are drums with holes for lug bolts, not studs with lug nuts. It wasn't obvious how to convert this set-up to discs so I decided to let it go until this year. Anyone had to make this conversion?

 

[Seahunter]

Replaced the springs and winch on my '94 last summer with parts from Eastern Marine.

I also have an EZ loader. The brakes on the trailer are drums with holes for lug bolts, not studs with lug nuts. It wasn't obvious how to convert this set-up to discs so I decided to let it go until this year. Anyone had to make this conversion?

The type of lugs you currently have are irrelevant. You replace the entire wheel assembly with a disc brake upgrade

 

[gwwannabe]

Well guys. I just completed the installation of my new brakes. Installation of the Kodiak components was pretty easy. The kit I bought had a Tie Down actuator, Tie Down back up solonoid and flexible brake lines. When I began installing them, the fun began.

First, the solonoid kit didn't have any instructions in it. After trying to attach the solonoid for a while, I realized that a) it would not fit into the fitting on the master cylander and b) the supplied fitting was not long enough. Off to an auto parts store where I found the perfect fitting.

Next problem was the brake lines. It was a pain dealing with the several feet of excess rubber brake line. At least metal brake line can be coiled.

The back up solonoid should be tied into the back up lights on the tow vehicle. My truck and motor home have seven pin connectors but none of them are tied into the back up lights. It was pretty easy to tap into the back up lghts on the truck and run a wire to the area of the seven pin connector with a connector for the solonoid wire to plug into. At some point, I'll do the same on the motor home.

The actuator has a manual method to keep the brakes from locking up when you're backing up but it's one more thing to remember. At least it's there if another vehicle is used to tow it.

Glad it's done. Thrilled to have a safe trailer again. I pull the boat tomorrow to take it to the canvas shop for a new bimini top. Spring is here!!!!

Gary 89 Overnighter

 

[Average Joe]

I hope everything works well for you. When I retro-fitted them to my Venture trailer it had some cheap rubber brake lines already on it and the brakes wouldn't work right. I think the trailer place said something about lack of pressure or something like that so I had to run SS lines with a short DOT rated rubber section at each wheel.

You will definately come to appreciate the difference with disc's though.

 

[Brad1]

State laws vary regarding this topic.

Here in PA, you must have brakes on ALL axles. But other states permit brakes on just one axle.

And if your not in compliance and your in an accident, the consequences can be serious.

 

[Capt Khaos]

Kodiak Disc Brakes

I did my brakes recently with Kodiak S Cad discs and PLASTIC brake lines. That's what the local trailer shop recommended and I bought them. Fairly inexpensive and very easy to run from master cylinder to all 4 wheels. The problem I had was getting them all to bleed properly. Oh, I got all the air out (I thought) but the brakes just didn't stop the trailer with the boat on it the way I thought it should. I went back to the trailer shop and mentioned it. The mechanic told me that with Kodiaks you need to remove the calipers and tilt each one while you bleed it so the bleeder is at the very top. There are 2 bleeders on each caliper but (depending on how you mount them) they are not at the very highest point for bleeding. Seems like bad design to me. Has anyone else had a bleeding problem and solved it like this?

 

[Hookup1]

Trailer brakes

I did my Venture tri-axel trailer in the winter of 2007. Drum brake conversion. New actuator, reverse lockout solonid, plastic brake lines and Tie-Down vented disk brakes on all 6 wheels. Synthetic brake fluid. Everything from Eastern Marine.

I had problems bleeding the system. I bought a brake bleeder that looks like a garden sprayer. You fill it with brake fluid, connect it to your brake fluid resovior, pump it up and start bleeding. Make sure your actuator is pulled completly forward before starting the bleeding process.

About $60 at http://www.eurosportacc.com/motive_power_bleeder_brake_line.htm

You will probably need to jury-rig a cap for your resovior.

 

[den3221]

Well, I just pull the Drums from my trailer today thinking I would just need to replace the shoes, but they are a mess.

After reading posts, I am considering replacing the Drum brakes with Disc Brakes. By the time I replace the Drum Brakes (Shoes, springs, drum) I am pushing $300 probably......

I have a 2002 dual-axle EZ Loader Trailer towing a 1989 Overnighter (brakes only on 1-axle). Unfortunately the guy that owned this trailer and boat before me didn't seem to take good care of it - so the drum brakes are corroded pretty bad.

I looked on EasternMarine.com and Kodiak S-CAD are $119 each. Trying not to break the budget here, so not going SS. What else do I need for this project and about how long to do myself? Can my current tongue and master cylinder, brake lines, etc. be re-used for Disc Brake conversion? Is there a Kit? Do the parts come with detailed instructions?

Any input would be appreciated.

 

[Hookup1]

Brakes

Eastern steered me away from the stainless. If trailering long distances the they heat up and the regular vented brakes are better.

The actuator needs to be modified. They can help you with that too.

If the lines are good you can flush them with alcohol and blow them out.