Rewire spreader lights

[SBLGFD]

Just ordered a pair of LED spreader lights (www.coastalnightlights.com/) and would like to consider pulling all new wire to feed them as opposed to a splice. Anyone ever try and pull new wires through the hard top tubes? Suggestions and or ideas?
Boat is a 1996 Sailfish 272
Thanks
Chris

 

[grady 306 bimini]

i ran wires for my bimini's radar and gps antennas and it is very easy (im not sure about a sailfish) but you will want to have a fishstik to run all of the wires the worst part for my installation was drilling through the thick fiberglass on the console
good luck
tim

 

[1st grady]

A splice is not bad if you use the heat shrink connectors with adhesive inside. Previous owner ran some almond wire mould (Lowes) and it is very acceptable. I am picky about having things look good and I do not find it objectionable. I believe it has self stick adhesive on the mounting strip and you can send a few short screws though it as well. That would be the easiest for sure. I have also purchase a Greenline wire crimper (lowes) which is an awesome tool to use as well for cutting wire and crimping those connectors. I no longer fear the electrical jobs.

 

[BobP]

I installed the coastal light a few weeks ago, incredible light.
The panel is over 80 LEDS.

Don't expect much on the housing (at that price), I couldn't believe both lights fit into such a small box but they did, initially looked like toy lights unlike the HOBBS or SW originals. But when lit up, whoa!

And only 1/2 amp of so per, can leave them on all night (and day). Old ones were about 5 amp per

But what light power and no heat, no hot spot like original headlamp style.
light light everywhere. Have to get used to brilliant blue white color.

Anyway, if you have lights now, re-use wire, which is pulled thru hardtop frame. It runs to hardtop box where switch is. But may be part of a taped harness that combines with other wires so Grady did one pull originally.

 

[gradyfish22]

If your not using marine wire that has a plastic covering, I recommend using electrical tape to coat the wires for both abrasion as well as to help them pull through the pipework easier. Also, use a wire pull lubricant, it will help the wires slide easier, pulling wires along other wires in a harness is difficult when pipeworks can be packed. The hardest part of the job is running wires from the spreaders to your electronics box where on most Grady's they drop down through a pipe into the helm electronics box, going down the pipework is easy, I use a fiberglass wire puller, makes life very easy, but running through the upper pipe work is difficult, making a 90 degree turn with a wire puller is not possible in a pipe like that so doing it the old fashion way is your best bet and splicing to the old wires and pulling gently....2 guys makes it easier...1 guy pulling and 1 guy feeding the new wire through so that it does not snag or rip the wire coating. This also allows the two of you to work together to keep the wires free from snagging and keep them moving.

 

[freddy063]

can you use the old wires to pull in the new ones? might need lots of soap,

 

[BobP]

The tube ID is large relative to the two wires, unless more is in there at any point along the way.

Don't need much wire to run LED lites. I'g go no heavier than 2/c 16 or 18 (preferred) AWG with outer jacket, just for ruggedness, you do have weld slag at weld joints internal to contend with.